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Leaving Purbach, head south toward Rust, a small resort village with limited accommodations. It's famous for its stork nests, which are perched on chimneys throughout the town. Its antiquated but charming town center is well preserved and clean, and its walls were built in 1614 for protection against the Turks.

Rust is the capital of the Burgenland lake district, lying in a rich setting of vineyards famed for the Burgenlander grape. If available, try the Blaufränkisch, a red wine mostly consumed by the locals and visiting Viennese who flock to the area. Sometimes you can go right up to the door of a vintner's farmhouse, especially if a green bough is displayed, to sample and buy wine on the spot.

The little lakeshore resort has a friendly atmosphere. Summers are often hot, and the lake water is surprisingly tepid. Sailboats and windsurfers can be rented on the banks of the shallow Neusiedler See.