Attractions

Sabah attracts scuba enthusiasts from around the world who come to dive at Sipadan, an island resort off the east coast of the state. Sipadan, ranked as one of the top-10 dive sites in the world, is actually a tall limestone "tower" rising from the bed of the Celebes Sea, supporting vast numbers of marine species, some of which may still be unidentified. Since 2004, the Malaysian government revoked the licenses of the five dive operators that managed resorts on the tiny island, in an effort to prevent environmental degradation. The dive operators will move their base camps to surrounding islands, offering day trips to the area or running live-aboard trips.

Borneo Divers (9th floor, Menara Jubili, 53 Jalan Gaya; tel. 088/222-226; www.borneodivers.info) was the first full-service dive operator in Borneo and the pioneering operator to Sipadan. They house divers at their resort on Mabul, along a gorgeous sandy beach with easy access to dive sites around the Mabul island and Sipadan. For RM664 ($193/£120) per night per person, you'll get accommodations, meals, airport transfers, and two dives a day. You'll have to pay extra for a round-trip flight into Tawau, which costs about RM390 ($113/£70). Booking can be made through Borneo Divers. Equipment rentals come to RM89 ($26/£16) per day. Sipadan has good diving year-round, but March through October has the best weather.

A newer spot, Layang Layang, located off the coast of northwest Borneo in the South China Sea, is also making a splash as an underwater bounty of marine life. Layang Layang Island Resort (head office in KL at Blk. A, ground floor, A-0-3, Megan Ave. II, 12 Jalan Yap Kwan Seng; tel. 03/2162-2877; www.layanglayang.com) pioneered this area for divers. Their standard package of 6 days/5 nights runs at RM1,250 ($363/£225) per person, which includes accommodations, meals, and three dives a day. Equipment is extra, as is the chartered helicopter flight to the island, which is expensive at RM969 ($281/£174) round-trip (booked through the dive operator, flying on Tues, Thurs, Fri, and Sun). Layang Layang closes during the monsoon season (early Sept to Feb).

If you want to stay close to Kota Kinabalu, Borneo Divers makes day trips to Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park. This group of five islands about 8km (13 miles) off the coast of Kota Kinabalu has been protected since the mid-1970s. Throughout the park, waters are clear and visibility is good. Although not as lauded as Sipadan and Layang Layang, if you're looking for some quick diving excitement but you have time and money constraints, it's highly recommended. A day trip that includes two boat dives and a shore dive costs RM265 ($77/bp]48), not including equipment rentals. Borneo Divers has a base camp on the smallest island, from which they also conduct complete PADI scuba courses.

Sabah has many other dive sites, including sites such as Pulau Tiga, of Survivor TV fame. A couple of sites also offer wreck diving, so if you're interested, inquire when you make your booking.

For other types of watersports, your best bet is to either book these activities through your resort or plan a DIY trip to Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. Catch a ferry at the newly upgraded Kpta Kinabalu City Terminal, near the Sabah Ports Authority/Marine Police Jetty, to take you to the park. It costs RM30 ($8.70/£5.40) and is only 8km (13 miles) from Kota Kinabalu, so you can spend a day trip at one or more of the park's five islands sunning on the beach. Snorkel rentals go for around RM10 ($2.90/£1.80), and parasailing charges run RM100 ($29/£18). The latest thrill is seawalking -- donning an enormous helmet connected to the surface with a tube, which allows you to breathe underwater without tanks. This costs RM150 ($44/£27) per person (tel. 088/249-115; www.borneoseawalking.com). Tip for snorkelers: Bring cotton socks to wear under your rental fins, to prevent blisters. There are cafes and toilets near the jetties, plus good accommodations on two of the islands.

Sabah's rugged terrain makes for terrific hiking, camping, biking, and rafting for any level, from soft adventure or extreme sports. TYK Adventure (Borneo Travel; Lot 48-2F, 2nd floor, Beverly Hill Plaza; tel. 088/727-825; www.tykadventuretours.com) was founded by a local Chinese award-winning tour guide Tham Yau Kong, who also happens to hold records for the longest cultural walk (1998) and for leading the first group to circum-cycle Mt. Kinabalu (1999). Mountain biking trips around Papar or Penampang can be arranged for RM310 ($90/£56) per person for the day trip; the rate includes hotel transfer, mountain bike, and helmet.

Many come to Sabah to climb Mt. Kinabalu. It's an exhilarating trip if you are prepared and if you hit it just right, in terms of weather and timing. It can be done only on an overnight trip, which includes a 4- or 5-hour hike from the park headquarters uphill to a ranger station, where you stay the night. Groups awake at 3am to begin the 3-hour hike to the summit. This is not light trekking, as some parts are steep, altitude sickness can cause headaches and nausea, and remember -- you're tooling along in the pitch darkness, the whole point being to arrive at the summit in time for the spectacular sunrise. Come prepared with cold weather snugglies, or at the very least a wool sweater or fleece, long pants, windbreaker, rain poncho, and hiking boots. Bring a good, strong flashlight and pack plenty of trail mix and sports drinks for rejuvenation. And finally, there's no guarantee that the weather will cooperate with your itinerary. You might hit rain or find the summit covered in clouds. There's pretty much nothing any tour operator can do to guarantee you'll get a clear view. But I've heard when you hit it right, it's really quite a great adventure with a rewarding view. TYK Adventure can also book this tour for you; a 2-day/1-night trip costs RM900 ($261/£162). Make sure you book early, because they need to make sure there's space available at park accommodations. The price includes transfer, lodging, and your guide to the summit.

TYK also plans regular trips out to Sandakan, on the eastern coast of Sabah, for trips to see the Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Center, the largest orangutan sanctuary in the world, with facilities to house and train hundreds of orphaned orangutans for eventual release back into the wilds, with a boat trip to see the Marine Turtle Conservation Park and Hatchery.

Monsopiad Cultural Village, a Kadazandusun heritage center with its creepy House of Skulls, is located in Penampang, not far from Kota Kinabalu. During the 3-hour visit to the village, you'll tour the place and be treated to a cultural performance. It's about the height of "touristy" Sabah but can be a fun half-day trip if you want to peep at a bit of local culture. Call them at tel. 088/774-337 to make a booking; RM100 ($29/£18) includes transportation to and from your hotel, the tour and show, plus a welcome drink. The tour leaves daily at 9:30am and again at 2:30pm.

In 2000, the North Borneo Railway (Tanjung Aru Railway; tel. 088/263-933) revived the tradition of steam train travel with the launch of a 1954 fully renovated British Vulcan steam locomotive pulling six restored carriages. Traversing a 58km (36-mile) route from Tanjung Aru, near Kota Kinabalu, to the town of Papar, the train passes water and mangrove views, past fishermen and local sea crafts, through a mountain tunnel, and out the other side into a vast scenery of paddy fields. Carriages are open-air but comfortable, with soft seats and wood and brass accents. A swanky bar car and observation deck round out facilities that also include toilets. The train departs every Wednesday and Saturday at 10am, returning at 2pm; tickets are RM195 ($57/£35). At the time of writing, the railway was under maintenance, but do check to see if they're up and running during your visit; it's well worth it.

For another unique view of the countryside, Touchdown Holidays Malaysia (tel. 088/249-276; www.touchdowncollection.com) offers thrilling helicopter tours, flying over Kota Kinabalu, tropical wilds, and the jewel-colored sea. They also operate luxury boats around the islands off Kota Kinabalu.