Attractions

The historic district extends well inland from the waterfront. Many 18th-century houses, some with original furnishings, still stand. Ship captains lived near the water at the east end of downtown, in relatively small houses crowded close together. The captains' employers, the shipping company owners, built their homes away from the water (and the accompanying aromas). Many of them lived on Chestnut Street, now a National Historic Landmark. Residents along the grand thoroughfare must, by legal agreement, adhere to colonial style in their decorating and furnishings. Ask at the visitor center for the pamphlet that describes a walking tour of the historic district.

By car or trolley, the Salem Willows (tel. 978/745-0251; www.salemwillows.com) amusements are 5 minutes away; many signs point the way. The strip of rides and snack bars has a honky-tonk air, and the waterfront park is a good place to bring a picnic and wander along the shore. There's no admission fee; meter parking is available. To enjoy the great view without the arcades and rides, have lunch one peninsula over at Winter Island Park.

A Whale of an Adventure

The depletion of New England's fishing grounds has led to the rise of another important seagoing industry, whale watching. The waters off the coast of Massachusetts are prime territory, and Gloucester is a center of whale-watching cruises. Stellwagen Bank, which runs from Gloucester to Provincetown about 27 miles east of Boston, is a rich feeding ground for the magnificent mammals. Species spotted in the area are mainly humpback, finback, and minke whales, who dine on sand eels and other fish that gather along the ridge. The whales often perform for their audience by jumping out of the water, and dolphins occasionally join the show. Naturalists onboard narrate the trip for the companies listed here, pointing out the whales and describing birds and fish that cross your path.

Whale watching is not particularly time- or cost-effective, especially if restless children are along, but it's so popular for a reason: The payoff is, literally and figuratively, huge. This is an "only in New England" experience that kids (and adults) will remember for a long time.

The season runs from April or May through October. Bundle up, even in the middle of summer -- it's much cooler at sea than on land. Wear a hat and rubber-soled shoes, and take sunglasses, sunscreen, a hat, and a camera. If you're prone to motion sickness, take precautions, because you'll be at sea for 3 1/2 to 5 hours. If you plan to take Dramamine, take it before you depart.

This is an extremely competitive business -- they'd deny it, but the companies are virtually indistinguishable. Most guarantee sightings, offer a morning and an afternoon cruise as well as deep-sea fishing excursions and charters, honor other firms' coupons, and offer AAA and AARP discounts. Check the local marinas for sailing times, prices ($35-$40 for adults, less for seniors and children), and reservations, which are strongly recommended.

In downtown Gloucester, Cape Ann Whale Watch (tel. 800/877-5110 or 978/283-5110; www.caww.com) is the best-known operation. Also downtown are Capt. Bill & Sons Whale Watch (tel. 800/33-WHALE or 978/283-6995; www.captbillandsons.com) and Seven Seas Whale Watch (tel. 888/283-1776 or 978/283-1776; www.7seas-whalewatch.com). At the Cape Ann Marina, off Route 133, is Yankee Whale Watch (tel. 800/WHALING or 978/283-0313; www.yankeefleet.com).