Attractions

The historic district extends well inland from the waterfront. Many 18th-century houses, some with original furnishings, still stand. Ship captains lived near the water at the east end of downtown, in relatively small houses crowded close together. The captains' employers, the shipping company owners, built their homes away from the water (and the accompanying aromas). Many of them lived on Chestnut Street, now a National Historic Landmark. Residents along the grand thoroughfare must, by legal agreement, adhere to colonial style in their decorating and furnishings. Ask at the visitor center for the pamphlet that describes a walking tour of the historic district.

By car or trolley, the Salem Willows (tel. 978/745-0251; www.salemwillows.com) amusements are 5 minutes away; many signs point the way. The strip of carnival-style diversions and snack bars has a retro honky-tonk air, and the waterfront park is a good place to bring a picnic and wander along the shore. There's no admission fee; meter parking is available. To enjoy the great view without the arcades and rides, have lunch one peninsula over at Winter Island Park.

A Face in the Crowd -- On the traffic island across from the entrance to the Salem Witch Museum is a statue that's easily mistaken for a witch. It's really Roger Conant, who founded Salem in 1626.

Party Line -- Alexander Graham Bell made the first long-distance telephone call from the building that now holds the Lyceum Bar & Grill.