If you think Providenciales is laid-back, you'd better prepare yourself for the really relaxed worlds of Grand Turk and Salt Cay. Grand Turk and Salt Cay are low-key charmers that hold quaint architectural remnants of the islands' colonial past. If you love to scuba dive or snorkel, have a thing for sun-drenched beaches and ridiculously beautiful seas, and crave a relaxed, back-to-basics departure from the chichi boutique-resort scene, a visit to both islands during your vacation is highly recommended.
When they really want to relax, the stressed-out denizens of sleepy Grand Turk head to Salt Cay (pop. 60), for a sundowner, perhaps, at the Green Flash or the Coral Bar & Grill. As one Grand Turker put it: "Salt Cay has two speeds: slow and stop."
Salt Cay's slogan is "The Land that Time Forgot," and if you arrive by air, you'll get the idea. Civilization seems far, far away as you take in the lay of the land on the fly-in: the tiny (2.6 sq. km/1 sq. mile), rural landscape, dotted with abandoned salinas and old windmills, sunbaked remnants of the Bermudian salt-rakers' heyday on the island in the early 19th century, and the occasional donkey ambling down a dirt road. The one-room airport resembles a Wild West storefront, complete with hitching post. If you spot a car at all, it's probably Nathan Smith picking you up at the airport.
It's a wonder you don't head home on the next flight out.
But don't. Give this, the southernmost cay of the Turks islands, a couple of days, at the very least. Grab a snorkel and flippers and dip into the sea right off the beach. Have a lively lunch at Island Thyme Bistro and gaze at the Haitian art papering the walls. Find a message in a bottle lying on the beach. Have a sunset drink at the Green Flash as you stare out at the horizon for the green flash. Swim with whales (or stingrays if you prefer). Rent a golf cart from Nathan Smith, buy groceries from Nathan Smith, and get a taxi ride from Nathan Smith. Or just find yourself a hammock or a prime spot on the sugary-sand beach and enjoy one of the most tranquil places you'll ever experience.
