U3

This restaurant's paneling and elaborate architectural detailing are remnants of a villa that originally stood on this site in the 1870s. Today a polite staff serves a wide array of well-prepared Italian dishes, most cooked in health-conscious ways with olive oil and an emphasis on fresh vegetables and Mediterranean flavors. You may opt for any of several freshly made pastas, salads, a "turban" of sole with shrimp, a platter containing three different filet mignons, several kinds of grilled fish and meat, and -- in season -- venison or quail with truffles. Cuisine is well conceived, flavorful, and well suited to the bracing climate.

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