Samoa is no different from the other Polynesian countries in that watching a traditional dance show as part of a feast night (in Samoa called a fiafia) is a highlight of any visit. Samoan dance movements are graceful and emphasize the hands more than the hips; the costumes feature more siapo cloth and fine mats than flowers. While the dances are not as lively nor the costumes as colorful as those in Tahiti and the Cook Islands, they are definitely worth seeing.
Pub Crawling -- Sunday through Thursday nights are relatively quiet in Apia. But on weekends everyone with an itch to drink, dance, and socialize heads down Beach Road, hitting one pub after another. Most of these have live bands on Friday (the biggest night) and Saturday. Thanks to citizens outraged by bars opening in residential neighborhoods, pubs legally must close at midnight throughout the week (none are open on Sunday). As a practical matter, some of them keep right on going into the wee hours, especially on Friday night.
Start with a cocktail or cold Vailima beer in the Brando Bar at Aggie Grey's Hotel & Bungalows, then head west along Beach Road to Apia's version of restaurant row. You'll come to the slapped-together facade and worse-than-plain furniture at Lighthouse Bar & Grill (tel. 22-691), one of the more popular bars in town with both locals and expatriate residents. You can look right into this open-air establishment. On one side of Sails Restaurant and Bar is Bad Billy's Bar (tel. 30-258) and Blue Lagoon Bar & Grill (tel. 30-298). On the other is On the Rocks (tel. 20-093), where you can actually have a good conversation at the sidewalk tables. From there everyone heads west to the RSA Night Club (tel. 20-171), where Samoa's military veterans throw open a welcome to everyone with a few talas to pay for the rock band.
Cappuccino Vineyard (tel. 22-049) is the most civilized place to have a drink on Saturday night while listening to cool island music -- but get here before the music stops at 10pm.
Don't Sit Near the Door -- When pub crawling along Beach Road, don't sit near the door. This is where fights are most likely to erupt as bouncers evict drunken and unruly customers who don't want to leave.
