Getting There

Air New Zealand has a weekly nonstop flight between Los Angeles and Apia. It also has non-stop and one-stop (in Tonga) service from Auckland. Polynesian Blue, a joint venture between the Samoan government and Virgin Blue, connects the country with Auckland and Sydney. Air Pacific flies between Apia and Fiji. Polynesian Airlines flies a small, propeller-driven plane between Samoa and Tonga (it's a long, noisy flight compared to jet aircraft). A less direct way to get to Apia is on Hawaiian Airlines, which flies between several West Coast cities and Honolulu, thence to Pago Pago in American Samoa. Connections to Samoa can then be made on Polynesian Airlines' small planes.

Flights into and out of the Samoas are often packed with Samoans leaving and returning to the islands, so reserve a seat as soon as possible.

The Samoa Shipping Corporation (tel. 20-935; www.samoashipping.com) operates a ferry between Apia and Pago Pago in American Samoa. It usually departs Apia on Wednesday at midnight, arriving in Pago Pago at 8am on Thursday. The return voyage departs Pago Pago at 4pm Thursday, arriving at Apia at midnight. Fares range from S$75 (US$25) for a seat to S$100 (US$33) for a cabin.

Arriving & Departing

All international flights arrive at Faleolo Airport, on the northwest corner of Upolu about 32km (19 miles) from Apia. There are duty-free shops and two currency exchange windows in the baggage claim area, or you can wait until you've cleared Customs and use ANZ Bank's ATM in the main concourse.

Transportation from the Faleolo Airport is by taxi or by buses which meet all international flights (you will be astounded by how many passengers and their baggage can be crammed into one of these vehicles). The bus ride officially costs S$12 (US$4) each way. The government-regulated taxi fare into town is S$40 (US$13), but make sure you and the driver agree on the fare.

Shuttle buses also transport passengers from the Apia hotels to Faleolo Airport for departing international flights. They arrive at the hotels at least 2 hours before departure time. Be sure to tell your hotel what flight you are leaving on; otherwise, the bus could leave you behind.

Everyone over 12 years old must pay a S$40 (US$13) departure tax before leaving the country. Get your boarding pass and pay in Samoan currency at one of the banks in the main concourse, or after clearing Immigration if the banks aren't open.

There is no bank in the departure lounge, so change your leftover talas before clearing Immigration. Remember, Samoan currency cannot be exchanged outside the country, even in American Samoa.