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A true dive, this is supposedly the oldest bar in the city and it certainly looks (and smells) like it. Floors are but worn planks, staff are grizzled and hairy, and the story goes that this place managed to survive the conflagration of 1906 by offering the firefighters free booze. There’s live music every night—mostly blues and jazz. Don’t come expecting a cruisey scene; come for down-and-dirty music and cheap whiskey.