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For many foodies, eating at now-famous James Beard Award–winning chef Dannie Bowien’s walk-in-only restaurant is a rite of passage. While the Chinese food is indeed inventive (Kung Pao pastrami, for example), some (including myself) argue that it’s overrated. Others can’t get enough. Regardless, the cramped bustling dining space confusingly identified as “Lung Shan Restaurant” out front is affordably priced and always a fun time. Portions are large and great for sharing. BYOB.