The most direct route from Kerrville to Fredericksburg is via Highway 16 North, but antiques lovers and architectural buffs will want to detour some 18 miles southeast along Highway 27 to seek Comfort. It has been said that the freethinking German immigrants who founded the town in 1852 were originally going to call it Gemütlichkeit -- a more difficult-to-pronounce native version of its current name -- when they arrived at this welcoming spot after an arduous journey from New Braunfels. The story is apocryphal, but it's an appealing explanation of the name, especially as no one is quite sure what the truth is.
The rough-hewn limestone buildings in the center of Comfort may compose the most complete 19th-century business district in Texas. Architect Alfred Giles, who also left his distinctive mark on San Antonio's streets, designed some of the offices. These days, most of these structures, and especially those on High Street, host high-quality (and generally high-priced) antiques shops. More than 30 dealers gather at the Comfort Antique Mall, 734 High St. (tel. 830/995-4678). The nearby complex of antiques shops known as Comfort Common, 717 High St. (tel. 830/995-3030), also doubles as a bed-and-breakfast. If you're in town Thursday to Sunday from 11am to 3:30pm, combine shopping and noshing at Arlene's Café and Gift Shop, 426 7th St., just off High Street (tel. 830/995-3330). The tasty soups, sandwiches, and desserts are freshly made on the premises.
The Comfort Chamber of Commerce, on Seven and High streets (tel. 830/995-3131), has very limited hours, but who knows -- you might be lucky enough to arrive when it's open. Alternatively, try the Ingenhuett Store, 830-834 High St. (tel. 830/995-2149), owned and operated by the same German-American family since 1867. Along with groceries, outdoor gear, and sundries, the store carries maps and other sources of tourist information.