San Marcos

Some 26 miles south of Austin via I-35, San Marcos was first settled by Native Americans around 12,000 years ago. Some scholars claim it is the oldest continuously inhabited site in the Western Hemisphere. Temporary home to two Spanish missions in the late 1700s, as well as to Comanches and Apaches (which explains the "temporary" part), this site at the headwaters of the San Marcos River was permanently settled by Anglos in the middle of the 19th century. Now host to Texas State University--San Marcos (formerly Southwest Texas State University), the alma mater of LBJ, and the only university in the state to graduate a future president -- San Marcos has the laid-back feel of a college town. It's also fast becoming a bedroom community of Austin, only half an hour away.

What to See & Do

In the center of town -- and, clearly, the reason for its existence -- more than 1,000 springs well up from the Balcones Fault to form Spring Lake; its astonishingly clear waters maintain a constant temperature of 72°F (22°C). On the lake's shore sits the Aquarena Center, 1 Aquarena Springs Dr. (tel. 512/245-7575; www.aquarena.txstate.edu), an exemplar of tourism trends. The first theme park to be opened in Texas, and once home to Ralph the Swimming Pig, it was purchased in the mid-1990s by Texas State University, which then spent $16 million to convert it into an environmental research center. Glass-bottom boat tours, which allow you to view the lake's rare flora and fauna, cost $7 for adults, $6 for seniors 55 and older, and $5 for children ages 4 to 14. In addition, there are environmental tours (2 weeks advance arrangement required), an endangered species exhibit, a natural aquarium, hikes, and a boardwalk over the wetlands, where more than 100 species of birds have been spotted. You can also visit the log home of Gen. Edward Burleson, who built the dam that created Spring Lake to power his gristmill.

The San Marcos River, which begins at Spring Lake, is also getting (somewhat) eco-conscious. Log on to www.sanmarcosriver.org to find out about conservation measures taken by the San Marcos River Foundation. Not-so-rare species on the river include canoeists and rafters: Between May and September, the local Lions Club (tel. 512/396-LION; www.centuryinter.net/smlc/tuberental.html) rents inner tubes and operates a river shuttle at City Park; check the website for a schedule and rates.

When the Balcones Fault was active some 30 million years ago, an earthquake created the cave at the center of Wonder World, 1000 Prospect St., off Bishop (tel. 877/492-4657 or 512/392-3760; www.wonderworldpark.com). You might not want to visit this much-hyped attraction. The petting farm, for example, is essentially a tram ride through an enclosure of depressed-looking deer. A tour of the cave eventually takes you to the so-called Anti-Gravity House, where you can see water flowing upward. The cave ($11 adults, $9 children ages 4-11) is okay, but there are better ones such as Natural Bridge Caverns. And the Anti-Gravity House ($3 all ages) is just tacky. This attraction is open daily from June through August from 8am to 8pm; Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 6pm the rest of the year; it is closed Christmas Eve and Christmas.

San Marcos's entire downtown area is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Its hub is Courthouse Square, where several turn-of-the-century buildings are being restored. The State Bank and Trust Building, dating back to the late 1800s, was robbed by the Newton Gang in 1924 and (most likely) by Machine Gun Kelly in 1933; The Getaway, starring Steve McQueen and Ali McGraw, was shot here in 1972.

To get an inside look at one of the town's two tree-lined residential districts, make an appointment to view the Millie Seaton Collection of Dolls and Toys, 1104 W. Hopkins (tel. 512/396-1944), housed in the opulent 1908 Augusta Hofheinz mansion. Thousands of tiny eyes peer at you from the three stories crammed with figurines that Mrs. Seaton has been collecting since 1965, including some rare historical specimens. You're likely to recognize a few of them from your childhood. Admission is free.

Texas State University's Albert B. Alkek Library isn't old, but it's home to some of the state's most important literary artifacts as well as to a good gallery specializing in photographs. The Southwestern Writers Collection, on the seventh floor of the library at 601 University Dr. (tel. 512/245-3861; www.library.txstate.edu/swwc), showcases materials donated by the region's leading filmmakers, musicians, and wordsmiths. You might see anything from a 1555 printing of the journey of Spanish adventurer Cabeza de Vaca to a songbook created by an 11-year-old Willie Nelson to the costumes worn by Tommy Lee Jones and Robert Duvall in Lonesome Dove. (The collection was founded by screenwriter Bill Wittliff, who wrote the script for that TV miniseries as well as for Legends of the Fall and A Perfect Storm.) The collection is generally open to the public Monday, Tuesday, and Friday 8am to 5pm, Wednesday and Thursday 8am to 7pm, Saturday 9am to 5pm, Sunday 2 to 6pm, but hours change with university holidays and breaks; phone ahead or check the website. The Wittliff Gallery of Southwestern & Mexican Photography (tel. 512/245-2313) exhibits not only works from an excellent permanent collection, but also temporary shows by other renowned photographers. Call ahead for directions to the building and parking garage; hours are the same as for the Southwestern Writers Collection.

Outlet Shopping

Lots of people bypass San Marcos altogether and head straight for the two factory outlet malls a few miles south of downtown -- the biggest discount shopfest in Texas. Take exit 200 from I-35 for both the Tanger Factory Outlet Center (tel. 800/408-8424 or 512/396-7446; www.tangeroutlet.com) and the larger and tonier Prime Outlets (tel. 800/628-9465 or 512/396-2200; www.primeoutlets.com) right next door. Among the almost 150 stores, you'll find everything from Dana Buchman, Anne Klein, and Brooks Brothers to Coach, Samsonite, and Waterford/Wedgwood. There's also a Saks Fifth Avenue outlet.

The San Marcos Convention and Visitors Bureau, 202 N. C. M. Allen Pkwy., San Marcos, TX 78666 (tel. 888/200-5620 or 512/393-5900; www.sanmarcoscharms.com), can provide you with information on mall bus transportation, as well as a complete list of places to eat and stay in town.

Where to Stay & Dine

The Crystal River Inn, 326 W. Hopkins, San Marcos, TX 78666 (tel. 888/396-3739 or 512/396-3739; www.crystalriverinn.com), offers something for everyone. Nine rooms and three suites, beautifully decorated with antiques, occupy a large 1883 Victorian main house and two smaller historic structures behind it. There's also a fully furnished executive apartment across the street. Rates, which range from a low of $105 for a room during the week to a high of $175 for a two-bedroom suite on the weekend, include a full breakfast. The elaborately scripted (and enthusiastically acted) murder-mystery weekends are extremely popular.

The prettiest place to have a meal in town is the courtyard at Palmer's, 216 W. Moore (tel. 512/353-3500; www.palmerstexas.com), where you can sit among lovely native plants and trees and enjoy dishes ranging from penne pasta Alfredo with artichoke hearts and sun-dried tomatoes or charbroiled ahi tuna to a hefty Kansas City strip steak. Save room for the delicious Key lime or chocolate satin pies. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner daily, and meals are moderate to expensive.

For a bit of history with your meal, you can't beat the Hill Country Grill, 100 W. Hopkins St. (tel. 512/396-6100; www.hillcountrygrill.com), in the old State Bank and Trust Building. Dine on such well-prepared standards as grilled salmon or rib-eye in a couple of the former vaults--they're windowless, so the claustrophobic might opt for the airy exterior dining room--or sip such cocktails as Getaway Gold at a bar that incorporates the bank counter. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday; prices are moderate to expensive.

Shopping in Buda

On the Interstate between San Marcos and Austin is the tiny town of Buda (pronounced Byou-duh). Not a lot happens here, but if you take the Buda exit (exit 220) you'll see Texas Hatters (tel. 800/421-HATS or 512/295-4287; www.texashatters.com) on the access road on the east side of the highway. In business for more than 50 years, this Western hatter has had an unlikely mix of famous customers, from Tip O'Neill, George Bush, and the king of Sweden to Al Hirt, Willie Nelson, Chuck Norris, and Arnold Schwarzenegger -- to name just a few. You can pick out a hat, have it shaped and a custom band put on in no time.

Also in Buda, along the highway feeder road (this time on the west side) is a new Cabela's store (tel. 512/295-1100; www.cabelas.com) selling outdoor gear. This is one of those destination stores that are said to have everything you could possibly want for hiking, climbing, and paddling. You'll see signs marking the exit (#220), and you can see the store from the highway.

A Literary Aside

Pulitzer Prize-winning author Katherine Anne Porter, best known for her novel Ship of Fools, spent most of her childhood just a few miles south of Buda, in the town of Kyle. In 2001, the 1880 Katherine Anne Porter House, 508 W. Center St. (tel. 512/268-6637; www.english.txstate.edu/kap), was dedicated and opened to the public, as well as to a visiting writer chosen by the Texas State University-San Marcos. The house, which was restored and furnished with period antiques, hosts Porter's works and a collection of her photographs. There's no admission charge, but you need to call ahead for an appointment.

Nearby Wimberley

A river resort town some 15 miles northwest of San Marcos, Wimberley attracts Austinites with a slew of bed-and-breakfasts -- it's a favorite setting for family reunions -- and a concentration of resident artists. From April through December, the first Saturday of each month is Market Day, a huge crafts gathering on Lion's Field; check http://visitwimberly.com/marketdays for additional information.

If you like artsy and craftsy (and, especially, country cutesy) stuff, you could spend all day browsing the shops and boutiques on and near the town square. But one of the most interesting places to visit is 1 1/2 miles south of the town center: Wimberley Glass Works, Spoke Hill Road (tel. 512/847-9348; www.wgw.com), stands out for its rainbow-like array of blown glassware. The jewelry, made with shards of broken glass, is outstanding. You can watch owner/artist Tim de Jong at work much of the time (except Tues, when the furnaces are refilled).

Right next door is another great reason to come to Wimberley. The Blair House, 100 Spoke Hill Rd., Wimberley, TX 78676 (tel. 877/549-5450 or 512/847-8828; www.blairhouseinn.com), is a luxury property on 85 Hill Country acres, offering eight beautifully decorated rooms and two separate cottages in a Texas limestone ranch complex. What with a cooking school on the premises, you know the breakfasts -- and dinners, offered to outsiders as well as guests every Saturday night--are going to be good. Rates run $135 to $235 for double rooms, $275 to $285 for the cottages. The cooking classes and dinners are very popular with Austinites (and others), so book in advance if you want to attend.

For information about other places to stay, eat, or shop in Wimberley, contact the Chamber of Commerce, 14100 R.R. 12, just north of the town square (tel. 512/847-2201; www.wimberley.org). Another resource for accommodations is All Wimberley Lodging, 400 River Rd. (tel. 800/460-3909 or 512/847-3909; www.texashillcountrylodging.com).