New Braunfels

Some 16 miles south of San Marcos on I-35, New Braunfels sits at the junction of the Comal and Guadalupe rivers. German settlers were brought here in 1845 by Prince Carl of Solms-Braunfels, the commissioner general of the Society for the Protection of German Immigrants in Texas, the same group that later founded Fredericksburg. Although Prince Carl returned to Germany within a year to marry his fiancée, who refused to join him in the wilderness, his colony prospered. By the 1850s, New Braunfels was the fourth-largest city in Texas after Houston, San Antonio, and Galveston. Although you have to look a little to find its quainter side today, this is a good place to enjoy a bit of Germanic history -- and a lot of watersports.

What to See & Do

At the New Braunfels Chamber of Commerce, 390 S. Seguin, New Braunfels, TX 78130 (tel. 800/572-2626 or 830/625-2385; www.nbjumpin.com), open weekdays 8am to 5pm, you can pick up a pamphlet detailing the 40-point historic walking tour of midtown. Highlights include the Romanesque-Gothic Comal County Courthouse (1898) on Main Plaza; the nearby Jacob Schmidt Building (193 W. San Antonio), built on the site where William Gebhardt, of canned chili fame, perfected his formula for chili powder in 1896; and the 1928 Faust Hotel (240 S. Seguin), believed by some to be haunted by its owner. These days, drafts pulled from the microbrewery on the Faust's premises help allay even the most haunting anxieties. Henne Hardware, 246 W. San Antonio (tel. 830/606-6707), established in 1857, sells modern bits and bobs, but maintains its original tin-roof ceiling, rings for hanging buggy whips, and an old pulley system for transporting cash and paperwork through the back business office. It's said to be the oldest hardware store in Texas. Naeglin's, 129 S. Seguin Ave. (tel. 830/625-5722), opened in 1868, stakes its claim as the state's longest-running bakery. It's the place to try some kolaches -- Czech pastries filled with cheese, fruit, poppy seeds, sausage, or ham, among other delicious fillings.

Several small museums are worth a visit. Prince Carl never did build a planned castle for his sweetheart, Sophia, on the elevated spot where the Sophienburg Museum, 401 W. Coll St. (tel. 830/629-1572; www.nbtx.com/sophienburg), now stands, but it's nevertheless an excellent place to learn about the history of New Braunfels and other Hill Country settlements. It's open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm and Sunday 1 to 5pm; admission is $5 adults and free for students younger than 18. The Museum of Texas Handmade Furniture, 1370 Church Hill Dr. (tel. 830/629-6504; www.nbheritagevillage.com), also sheds light on local domestic life of the 19th century with its beautiful examples of Texas Biedermeier by master craftsman Johan Michael Jahn. They're displayed at the gracious 1858 Breustedt-Dillon Haus. The 11-acre Heritage Village complex also includes an 1848 log cabin and a barn that houses a reproduction cabinetmaker's workshop. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 1 to 4pm from February 1 through November 30, closed December and January. The last tour begins at 3:30pm. Admission costs $5 for adults, $4 for seniors, $1 for children ages 6 to 12.

You can tour other historic structures, including the original 1870 schoolhouse and such transported shops as a tiny music studio, at the nearby Conservation Plaza, 1300 Church Hill Dr. (tel. 830/629-2943), centered around a gazebo and garden with more than 50 varieties of antique roses. Guided tours (included in admission) are offered every day except Monday. It's open Tuesday to Friday, 10am to 3pm, and Saturday and Sunday, 2 to 5pm; adult admission costs $2.50, while children 6 to 17 pay 50¢. Also owned by the New Braunfels Conservation Society, the 1852 Lindheimer Home, 491 Comal Ave. (tel. 830/608-1512), is probably the best example of an early fachwerk house still standing in New Braunfels. Ferdinand J. Lindheimer, one of the town's first settlers -- he scouted out the site for Prince Solms -- was an internationally recognized botanist and editor of the town's German-language newspaper. Museum hours are limited -- in summer, it's open Thursday to Tuesday from 2 to 5pm; the rest of the year, it's only open weekends from 2 to 5pm -- but you can wander the lovely grounds planted with Texas natives (38 species of plant were named for Lindheimer) even if you can't get in to see the house.

Historic Gruene

You can get a more concentrated glimpse of the past at Gruene (pronounced "green"), 4 miles northwest of downtown New Braunfels. First settled by German farmers in the 1840s, Gruene was virtually abandoned during the Depression in the 1930s. It remained a ghost town until the mid-1970s, when two investors realized the value of its intact historic buildings and sold them to businesses rather than raze them. These days, tiny Gruene is crowded with day-trippers browsing the specialty shops in the wonderfully restored structures, which include a smoked-meat shop, lots of cutesy gift boutiques, and several antiques shops.

The New Braunfels Museum of Art & Music, 1259 Gruene Rd., on the river behind Gruene Mansion (tel. 800/456-4866 or 830/625-5636), focuses on popular arts in the West and South (as opposed to, say, high culture and the classics). Subjects of recent exhibits, which change quarterly and combine music and art components, have included Texas accordion music, central Texas dance halls, and cowboy art and poetry. Live music throughout the year includes an open mic on Sunday afternoons, and the recording of New Braunfels Live radio show of roots music on Thursday evenings. The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday from noon to 6pm from September 1 through April 30 and Monday through Thursday from 10am to 6pm, Friday and Saturday from 10am to 8pm, Sunday noon to 8pm the rest of the year. No admission; donations gratefully accepted (and you can contribute by shopping at the museum's excellent gift shop).

A brochure detailing the town's retailers, restaurants, and accommodations is available from the New Braunfels Chamber of Commerce or at most of Gruene's shops. You can also get information on the town's website, www.gruene.net.

Watersports

Gruene also figures among the New Braunfels area's impressive array of places to get wet, most of them open only in summer. Outfitters who can help you ride the Guadalupe River rapids on raft, tube, canoe, or inflatable kayak include Rockin' R River Rides (tel. 800/553-5628 or 830/629-9999; www.rockinr.com) and Gruene River Company (tel. 888/705-2800 or 830/625-2800; www.toobing.com), both on Gruene Road just south of the Gruene Bridge.

You can go tubing, too, at Schlitterbahn, Texas's largest water park and one of the best in the country, 305 W. Austin St. in New Braunfels (tel. 830/625-2351; www.schlitterbahn.com). If there's a way to get wet 'n' wild, this place has got it. Six separate areas feature gigantic slides, pools, and rides, including Master Blaster, one of the world's steepest uphill water coasters. The combination of a natural river-and-woods setting and high-tech attractions make this splashy 65-acre play land a standout. The park usually opens in late April and closes in mid-September; call or check the website for the exact dates. All-day passes cost $35 for adults, $29 for children 3 to 11; children under 3 enter free.

Those who like their water play a bit more low-key might try downtown New Braunfels's Landa Park (tel. 830/608-2160), where you can either swim in the largest spring-fed pool in Texas or calmly float in an inner tube down the Comal River -- at 2 1/2 miles the "largest shortest" river in the world, according to Ripley's Believe It or Not. There's also an Olympic-size swimming pool, and you can rent paddle boats, canoes, and water cycles. Even if you're not prepared to immerse yourself, you might take the lovely 22-mile drive along the Guadalupe River from downtown's Cypress Bend Park to Canyon Lake, whose clarity makes it perfect for scuba diving.

For more details about all the places where camping, food, and water toys are available along the Guadalupe River, pick up the Water Recreation Guide pamphlet at the New Braunfels Visitors Center.

Perhaps you want to buy your own toys -- and learn how to use them. The 70-acre Texas Ski Ranch, 6700 I-35 N. (tel. 830/627-2843; www.texasskiranch.com), is paradise for those interested in wake, skate, and motor sports. Features of this expanding complex include a cable lake, boat lake, skate park, and motor track -- at all of which you can test the equipment you want to purchase or rent (you can also bring your own), and show off the latest athletic clothing, sold here, too. Training clinics and private lessons for a variety of sports are offered. It costs $4 (free for over 65 and under 6) to use the recreation areas. The complex is open Tuesday through Thursday from 10am to 8pm, Friday and Saturday 10am to 9pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm.

Nearby Caverns & Animals

Natural Bridge Caverns, 26495 Natural Bridge Caverns Rd. (tel. 210/651-6101; www.naturalbridgecaverns.com), 12 miles west of New Braunfels, is named for the 60-foot limestone arch spanning its entryway. More than a mile of huge rooms and passages is filled with stunning, multihued formations -- still being formed, as the dripping water attests. Tours of the Jeremy Room, recently opened to the public, are restricted to small groups who tour with flashlights. The daring -- and physically fit -- can opt to join one of the Adventure Tours, which involve crawling and, in some cases, rappelling, in an unlighted cave not open to the general public ($95 for 3-4 hours), while those who prefer their adventures outdoors can opt for the new Watchtower Challenge, a 40-foot climbing tower with a zipline (prices vary, subject to weather and availability). The caverns are open 9am to 7pm June through Labor Day, 9am to 4pm the rest of the year; closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Year's Day; general admission costs $15 adults, $14 seniors 60 and older, $9 ages 4 to 12; Jeremy Room $17/$15/$9.50; combination ticket $25/$17/$15.

Just down the road, the Natural Bridge Wildlife Ranch, 26515 Natural Bridge Caverns Rd. (tel. 830/438-7400; www.nbwildliferanchtx.com), lets you get up close and personal -- from the safety of your car -- with some 50 threatened and endangered species from around the world; there's also a shorter (and equally safe) walking safari. Packets of food sold at the entryway inspire even some generally shy types to amble over to your vehicle. It is open daily 9am to 5pm, with extended summer hours 'til 6:30pm; admission costs $14 adults, $12 seniors 65 and older, $6.50 ages 3 to 11.

Where to Stay in New Braunfels & Gruene

The Prince Solms Inn, 295 E. San Antonio St., New Braunfels, TX 78130 (tel. 800/625-9169 or 830/625-9169; www.princesolmsinn.com), has been in continuous operation since it opened its doors to travelers in 1898. A prime downtown location, tree-shaded courtyard, downstairs piano bar, and gorgeously florid, High Victorian-style sleeping quarters have put accommodations at this charming bed-and-breakfast in great demand. Three Western-themed rooms in a converted 1860 feed store next door are ideal for families, and there's an ultraromantic separate cabin in the back of the main house. Rates range from $125 to $175.

For history with a river view, consider the Gruene Mansion Inn, 1275 Gruene Rd., New Braunfels, TX 78130 (tel. 830/629-2641; www.gruenemansioninn.com). The barns that once belonged to the opulent 1875 plantation house were converted to rustic elegant cottages with decks; some also offer cozy lofts (if you don't like stairs, request a single-level room). Accommodations for two go from $149 to $169 per night, including breakfast served in the plantation house. Two separate lodges, suitable for families, are available, too ($209-$229).

The nearby Gruene Apple Bed and Breakfast, 1235 Gruene Rd. (tel. 830/643-1234; www.grueneapple.com), set on a bluff overlooking the Guadalupe River, is less historic, more upscale. This opulent limestone mansion, built expressly to serve as an inn, hosts 14 luxurious theme rooms, from "Wild West" and "Shady Lady" to the more decorous "1776"; many look out on the river from private balconies. On-site recreation includes a natural stone swimming pool, hot tub, pool table, player piano -- even a small movie theater. Doubles range from $160 to $210; midweek discounts available.

If you're planning to come to town during the Wurstfest sausage festival (late Oct to early Nov), be sure to book well in advance, no matter where you stay -- that is high season here.

Where to Dine in New Braunfels & Gruene

The New Braunfels Smokehouse, 140 Hwy. 46 S., at I-35 (tel. 830/625-2416; www.nbsmokehouse.com), opened in 1951 as a tasting room for the meats it started hickory smoking in 1943. Savor it in platters or on sandwiches, or have some shipped home as a savory souvenir. It's open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner; prices are moderate. The far newer Huisache Grill, 303 W. San Antonio St. (tel. 830/620-9001; www.huisache.com), has an updated American menu that draws foodies from as far as San Antonio. The pecan-crusted pork-chop catfish and Yucatan chicken are among the excellent entrees. Lunch and dinner are served daily; prices are moderate to expensive. An even more recent arrival on downtown's fine dining scene, Myron's, 136 Castell Rd. (tel. 830/624-1024; myronsprimesteakhouse.com), serves perfectly prepared Chicago prime steak in a retro swank dining room (a converted 1920s movie palace). Prices are big-city expensive (all the sides are extra, for example), but the outstanding food and service, combined with the atmosphere, make any meal here a special occasion. Myron's is open for dinner nightly. Reservations are recommended for dinner at both the Huisache Grill and Myron's.

In Gruene, the Gristmill River Restaurant & Bar, 1287 Gruene Rd. (tel. 830/625-0684; www.gristmillrestaurant.com), a converted 100-year-old cotton gin, includes burgers and chicken-fried steak as well as healthful salads on its Texas-casual menu. Kick back on one of its multiple decks and gaze out at the Guadalupe River. Lunch and dinner daily; prices are moderate.

New Braunfels & Gruene Nightlife

At the Brauntex Performing Arts Theatre, 290 W. San Antonio (tel. 830/627-0808; www.brauntex.org), a restored 1942 movie theater in midtown New Braunfels, you can expect to see anything from Frula, an eastern European folk-dancing extravaganza that played Carnegie Hall, to such local acts as the Flying J. Wranglers.

Lyle Lovett and Garth Brooks are just a few of the big names who have played Gruene Hall, Gruene Road, corner of Hunter Road (tel. 830/629-7077; www.gruenehall.com), the oldest country-and-western dance hall in Texas and still one of the state's most outstanding spots for live music. Some of the scenes in Michael, starring John Travolta, were shot here. By itself, the hall is worth a detour; when in town, if there's live music playing, it is an absolute must -- just remember to wear your cowboy boots and hat.