Frederick's

Year in and year out, this restaurant serves outstanding food with admirable consistency. Not as well-known as many of San Antonio's glitzier culinary establishments, it has its own large body of loyal customers who know of its semi-hidden location, at the back of a Broadway strip mall. I like the sedate dining room with low ceiling, soft lights, comfortable furniture, and the non-fussy atmosphere. It's a refreshing combination of great food served without a lot of show.

Chef-owner Frederick Costa was born in Vietnam, but moved to France early on. His cooking combines elements from both cultures. For starters, consider caramelized pork ribs with a spicy sauce; the delicate and crispy spring rolls of shrimp, pork, and mushrooms; or a zesty crab salad with avocado. Entrees might include baked sea bass in truffle oil with artichoke hearts, or a duck breast cooked in a sauce of green peppercorns and cognac. The large wine list is mostly French and Californian.

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