Driving Tours

The Road to the Llao Llao Peninsula

The Cerro Campanario provides possibly the best lookout point in the region, with exceptional views of Nahuel Huapi and Perito Moreno lakes, as well as the ravishing beauty of the Llao Llao Peninsula and the peaks surrounding it. The lookout point is accessed by a 7-minute chair lift ride located 18km (11 miles) outside Bariloche on the road to Llao Llao, meaning you'll have to arrange transportation with a tour, drive a rental car, or take the local bus no. 20, which departs from behind the Centro Civico on Calle San Martín. A restaurant here offers panoramic views. The office is at Belgrano 41, #B (tel. 02944/427274), open daily from 9am to noon and from 2 to 6pm; the cost for the chair lift is $5 (£2.75), and you don't need reservations. Just show up at the chair lift at Avenida Bustillo, Km 17.5, during operating hours.

The Cerro Campanario is along a popular 60km (37-mile) drive around the Llao Llao Peninsula, commonly known as the Circuito Chico. This drive affords spectacular views of Nahuel Huapi and Perito Moreno lakes and the snowcapped peaks of Cerro Lopez and Catedral, which tower over the water. Head west out of town on the lakeside Avenida Bustillo. At 18km (11 miles) from Bariloche, the route changes into Ruta 237, loops around the peninsula as Ruta 77, and meets back at Ruta 237 and eventually Bustillo, all the while meandering through dense forest and picturesque bays with outstanding lookout points. There are short hikes en route as well, including a trail through an enchanting arrayán (myrtle) forest at the Parque Municipal Llao Llao, and a trail out to the hidden Lago Escondido. Visitors will find parrilla (grill) and fondue-style restaurants along the way, as well as the world-renowned Llao Llao Hotel & Resort. Overlooking the hotel, the lovely Capilla San Eduardo chapel displays the unique rustic Andean architecture that so typifies Bariloche. In front of the Llao Llao, Puerto Pañuelo is the main dock for boat trips , as well as trips to Puerto Blest and the boat crossing to Chile. Past the Llao Llao, the Ruta 77 continues to a lookout below Cerro Lopez and then descends to Bahía Lopéz, which has a nice beach. Farther along, be sure to stop for a photo-op at the incredibly picturesque Punto Panorámico. Just past the turn-off to Colonia Suiza is Meli-Hue (tel. 02944/448029; daily 2:30-8pm), a lovely lavender farm with a small gift shop and fantastic teahouse on the premises. Stop by the tourist information center in town to pick up a detailed Circuito Chico map highlighting restaurants and shops along the way. Again, most tour operators offer this excursion as a bus tour. Another option is to take the local bus along this route, hoping off and on in accordance with the hourly schedule (the tourist information office can also give you a bus schedule).

South of Bariloche

The massive Nahuel Huapi National Park extends to the south of Bariloche in a winding maze of majestic mountains and lakes. Whether you're on a day's drive, as part of an overnight getaway from the hustle and bustle of Bariloche, or en route to a world-class fly-fishing lodge, this area is definitely worth exploring. Driving south out of Bariloche on RN 40, you'll pass tall waterfalls and snowy peaks, edge around emerald lakes, and drop through a deep canyon as you head to El Bolsón. This laid-back town has a microclimate that has drawn nature lovers from around the country since the 1960s.

Heading south from Bariloche, you'll find the lovely Estancia Peuma Hue (tel. 02944/15-501030; www.peuma-hue.com) on the south shore of Lake Gutierrez. With two large houses and two cabins, as well as a slew of outdoor activities such as horseback riding and trekking, this high-end complex is intimate. It's one of the only ways to live a more rural Patagonian experience so close to Bariloche. A 3-day all-inclusive plan starts at $650 (£358) for two people.

Continuing south, you'll pass the continental divide -- a wide marsh where the water drains north to Lake Gutierrez and then on to the Nahuel Huapi and the Atlantic; and west through Lake Mascardi, over the border to Chile and the Pacific.

A Driving Tour: Cerro Tronador, Las Alerces Waterfall & Ventisquero Negro

This wonderful, full-day excursion takes visitors through lush forest and past hidden lakes (such as the picturesque Lago Mascardi), waterfalls, and beaches to a trail head that leads to the face of Ventisquero Negro (Black Glacier). You'll need a vehicle to drive the 215km (133-mile) round-trip road, including a detour to Cascada Los Alerces (Los Alerces Waterfall); it's 170km (105 miles) without the detour. Plan to stop frequently at the various lookout points along the road. Most tour agencies offer this excursion for about $25 to $30 (£14-£17) a person.

At 35km (22 miles) south of Bariloche, you'll reach Villa Mascardi. From here it is possible to take a full-day sailing excursion aboard the Victoria II, which takes riders across Lake Mascardi to the Hotel Tronador for lunch, followed by a bus ride up the valley to Pampa Linda and Los Ventisqueros for a trail walk. Visitors return the same way. This excursion can be booked at any travel agency and usually includes transportation from Bariloche, leaving at 9am and returning at 8pm (Nov-Mar only). Or you can leave directly from the dock if you have your own vehicle. The cost, including transportation from Bariloche, is $32 (£18) per person. It shaves off more than an hour of driving along a windy, dusty road.

If you're not taking the sailing excursion, continue past Villa Mascardi and take RP 81, the road that branches off to the right. You must stop at the National Parks gates and pay an entrance fee of $3 (£1.65) for foreigners. Past the turnoff to Pampa Linda and Los Rapidos campsite, continue to the Río Manso bridge, where a road heads left to the Los Alerces Waterfall. A 300m (984-ft.) walk takes you to a vista point overlooking the waterfall. After doubling back, you reach the bridge again, where you head left, continuing along the shore of Lake Mascardi until you reach the Hotel Tronador (tel. 02944/441062; www.hoteltronador.com), where the views of Mt. Tronador are outstanding. The charming log cabin hotel, built in 1929 by a Belgian immigrant family, is backed by high peaks and makes a good spot for lunch or a quiet getaway for overnight visitors. They have 30 rooms; high-season (Jan-Feb) prices for a double start at $95 (£52). The road continues up the valley of the Río Manso Superior, winding through Alpine scenery until reaching the lush and expansive Pampa Linda plains, where there is another inn and teahouse. The final leg ends at a stunning cirque (a steep valley with a lake) draped with vegetation and waterfalls. From here a trail leads to Black Glacier, named for the debris that colors the ice at its terminus. The mountain's power is imposing here. Return to Bariloche the same way you came, and see if you can pick out the heart-shaped Isla Corazón in the middle of Lago Mascardi.

Note that the route to Tronador, RP 81, is a narrow gravel road with restricted hours of transit during the busy summer months. Cars are allowed to travel in towards Tronador in the mornings only (9:30am-2pm), and travel out again in the afternoon only (4:30-7:30pm). Check with the Tourist Information Office before heading out.

Ruta 40: The Road South

The mighty and legendary Ruta 40 is one of the world's great adventure drives. It takes you along the eastern slope of the Andes from the top of Argentina all the way to the bottom of Patagonia. For travelers with a few extra days, the 3-night Ruta 40 trip organized by Overland Patagonia (tel. 02944/438654; www.overlandpatagonia.com) includes stops at traditional estancias, petroglyphs, and untouched national parks, and it costs a budget-friendly $320 (£176) per person. It starts in Bariloche and ends in El Calafate. Don't even think of making this expedition on your own without a 4X4 in excellent condition, stocked with all the necessary supplies. This land is Patagonia off the beaten track.