Shopping

Like its population, San Francisco's shopping scene is incredibly diverse. Every style, era, fetish, and financial status is represented here -- not in huge, sprawling shopping malls, but in hundreds of boutiques and secondhand stores scattered throughout the city. Whether it's a pair of Jimmy Choo shoes, a Chanel knockoff, or Chinese herbal medicine you're looking for, San Francisco's got it. Just pick a shopping neighborhood, wear some sensible shoes, and you're sure to end up with at least a few take-home treasures.

Major Shopping Scene

San Francisco has many shopping areas, but the following places are where you'll find most of the action.

Union Square & Environs -- San Francisco's most congested and popular shopping mecca is centered on Union Square and bordered by Bush, Taylor, Market, and Montgomery streets. Most of the big department stores and many high-end specialty shops are here. Be sure to venture to Grant Avenue, Post and Sutter streets, and Maiden Lane. This area is a hub for public transportation; all Market Street and several other buses run here, as do the Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason cable car lines. You can also take the Muni streetcar to the Powell Street station.

Chinatown -- When you pass through the gate to Chinatown on Grant Avenue, say goodbye to the world of fashion and hello to a swarm of cheap tourist shops selling everything from linen and jade to plastic toys and $2 slippers. But that's not all Chinatown has to offer. The real gems are tucked away on side streets or are small, one-person shops selling Chinese herbs, original art, and jewelry. Grant Avenue is the area's main thoroughfare, and the side streets between Bush Street and Columbus Avenue are full of restaurants, markets, and eclectic shops. Stockton Street is best for grocery shopping (including live fowl and fish). Walking is the way to get around, because traffic through this area is slow and parking is next to impossible. Most stores in Chinatown are open daily from 10am to 10pm. Take bus no. 1, 9X, 15, 30, 41, or 45.

Union Street -- Union Street, from Fillmore Street to Van Ness Avenue, caters to the upper-middle-class crowd. It's a great place to stroll, window-shop the plethora of boutiques, try the cafes and restaurants, and watch the beautiful people parade by. Take bus no. 22, 41, 45, 47, 49, or 76.

Chestnut Street -- Parallel and a few blocks north, Chestnut is a younger version of Union Street. It holds endless shopping and dining choices, and an ever-tanned, superfit population of postgraduate singles who hang around cafes and scope each other out. Take bus no. 22, 28, 30, 43, or 76.

Fillmore Street -- Some of the best shopping in town is packed into 5 blocks of Fillmore Street in Pacific Heights. From Jackson to Sutter streets, Fillmore is the perfect place to grab a bite and peruse the high-priced boutiques, crafts shops, and incredible housewares stores. Take bus no. 1, 2, 3, 4, 12, 22, or 24.

Haight Street -- Green hair, spiked hair, no hair, or mohair -- even the hippies look conservative next to Haight Street's dramatic fashion freaks. The shopping in the 6 blocks of upper Haight Street between Central Avenue and Stanyan Street reflects its clientele. It offers everything from incense and European and American street styles to furniture and antique clothing. Bus nos. 6, 7, 66, and 71 run the length of Haight Street, and nos. 33 and 43 run through upper Haight Street. The Muni streetcar N line stops at Waller Street and Cole Street.

Soma -- Although this area isn't suitable for strolling, you'll find almost all the discount shopping in warehouse spaces south of Market. You can pick up a discount-shopping guide at most major hotels. Many bus lines pass through this area.

Hayes Valley -- It's not the prettiest area in town, with some of the shadier housing projects a few blocks away. But while most neighborhoods cater to more conservative or trendy shoppers, lower Hayes Street, between Octavia and Gough streets, celebrates anything vintage, chic, artistic, or downright funky. With new shops opening frequently, it's definitely the most interesting new shopping area in town, with furniture and glass stores, thrift shops, trendy shoe stores, and men's and women's clothiers. You can find lots of great antiques shops south on Octavia and on nearby Market Street. Take bus no. 16AX, 16BX, or 21.

Fisherman's Wharf & Environs -- The tourist-oriented malls along Jefferson Street include hundreds of shops, restaurants, and attractions. Among them are Ghirardelli Square, PIER 39, the Cannery, and the Anchorage.

Just the Facts on Hours, Taxes & Shipping

Store hours are generally Monday through Saturday from 10am to 6pm and Sunday from noon to 5pm. Most department stores stay open later, as do shops around Fisherman's Wharf, the most heavily visited area (by tourists).

Sales tax in San Francisco is 9.5%, which is added on at the register for all goods and services purchased. If you live out of state and buy an expensive item, you might want to have the store ship it home for you. You'll have to pay for shipping, but you'll escape paying the sales tax.

Most of the city's shops can wrap your purchase and ship it anywhere in the world. If they can't, you can send it yourself, either through UPS (tel. 800/742-5877), FedEx (tel. 800/463-3339), or the U.S. Postal Service.

Amazing Grazing

There's no better way to spend a sunny Saturday morning in San Francisco than to stroll the Ferry Building Marketplace and Farmers' Market, snacking your way through some of America's finest organic produce -- it's one of the most highly acclaimed farmers' markets in the United States. While foraging among the dozens of stalls crammed with Northern California fruit, vegetables, bread, shellfish, and dairy items, you're bound to bump elbows with the dozens of Bay Area chefs (such as Alice Waters) who do their shopping here. The enthusiastic vendors are always willing to educate visitors about the pleasures of organic produce and often provide free samples. It's a unique opportunity for city dwellers to buy freshly picked organic produce directly from small family-operated farms.

On Saturday mornings the market is in its full glory. Nearly the entire building is enrobed with local meat ranchers, artisan cheese makers, bread bakers, specialty food purveyors, and farmers. On Saturdays make sure you arrive by 10:30am to watch Meet the Farmer, a half-hour interview with one of the farmers, food artisans, or other purveyors who give the audience in-depth information about how and where their food is produced. Then, at 11am, Bay Area chefs give cooking demonstrations using ingredients purchased that morning from the market (you get to taste their creations then leave with the recipe in hand). Several local restaurants also have food stalls selling their cuisine -- including breakfast items -- so don't eat before you arrive. You can also pick up locally made vinegars, preserves, herbs, and oils, which make wonderful gifts.

If you decide you want a local foodie to lead you on a culinary excursion of the Marketplace and Farmers' Market, my friend Lisa Rogovin, an "Epicurean Concierge" and founder of In the Kitchen with Lisa, offers guided culinary excursions. Some of Lisa's top noshing tips include:

• Mortgage Lifter heirloom tomatoes dipped in special Rosemary Salt from Eatwell Farm

• Creamy and sweet Barhi dates from Flying Disk Ranch, spread on an épi baguette from Acme Bread Company with a touch of fresh Panir cheese from Cowgirl Creamery

• Whatever's in season at Hamada Farms, such as their Tahitian pomelos and Oro Blanco grapefruits

• Fleur de Sel chocolates at Recchiuti Confections

• Scharffen Berger's Bittersweet Mocha chocolate bars made with ground Sumatra coffee beans from Peet's Coffee & Tea

• Warm liquid Valrhona chocolate at Boulette's Larder (nirvana, she says).

For more information about Lisa's guided culinary tours, log on to her website at www.inthekitchenwithlisa.com, or call her at tel. 415/806-5970.

The Ferry Building Marketplace is open Monday through Friday from 10am to 6pm, Saturday from 9am to 6pm, and Sunday from 11am to 5pm. The Farmers' Market takes place year-round, rain or shine, every Tuesday 10am to 2pm and Saturday 8am to 2pm. The Ferry Building is located on the Embarcadero at the foot of Market Street (about a 15-min. walk from Fisherman's Wharf). Call tel. 415/693-0996 for more information or log onto www.ferryplazafarmersmarket.com or www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com.