Farallon

Although this seafood restaurant is hands-down the most whimsical with its stunning oceanic fantasy decor, the high price tag, and fine, but not mind-blowing, food make it a better cocktail-and-appetizer stop than dinner choice. The multimillion-dollar attraction's outrageous decor follows the "coastal" cuisine theme; handblown jellyfish lamps, kelp bed-like backlit columns, glass clamshells, sea-urchin light fixtures, a sea-life mosaic floor, and a tentacle-encircled bar set the scene. (Thankfully, designer Pat Kuleto's impressive renovation of the 1924 building left the original Gothic arches intact.)

Executive chef Mark Franz, who opened the once-famous restaurant Stars with Jeremiah Tower, orchestrates the cuisine. He offers starters ranging from the expected (a variety of very expensive oysters) to the more ambitious (grilled Quinault River steelhead with seared squid, cannellini beans, and house-made chorizo) -- with a few meat and game items stuck in for good measure. The whimsy-meets-sophistication extends only as far as the food -- the service and wine lists (more than 400 by the bottle; 30 by the glass) are seriously professional. Personally, I prefer a bite and a drink at the bar.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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