Getting There & Departing
By Car -- The long and winding stretch of the Interamerican Highway between San José and San Isidro is one of the most difficult sections of road in the country. Not only are there the usual car-eating potholes and periodic landslides, but you must also contend with driving over the 3,300m (10,824-ft.) Cerro de la Muerte (Mountain of Death). This aptly named mountain pass is legendary for its dense afternoon fogs, blinding torrential downpours, steep drop-offs, severe switchbacks, and unexpectedly breathtaking views. (Well, you wanted adventure travel, so here you go!) Drive with extreme care, and bring a sweater or sweatshirt -- it's cold up at the top. It'll take you about 3 hours to get to San Isidro.
Tip: If you want a break from the road, stop for a coffee or meal at Mirador Vista del Valle (tel. 8384-4685 or 8836-3193; at Km 119), a rustic roadside joint with a great view, gift shop, hiking trails, and orchid collection. These folks also have a few rustic cabins, as well as a zip-line canopy tour.
By Bus -- Plenty of daily buses will take you to San Isidro. Musoc buses (tel. 2222-2422 in San José, or 2771-3829 in San Isidro) leave from their modern terminal at Calle Central and Avenida 22 roughly hourly between 5:30am and 6:30pm. Tracopa (tel. 2221-4214 or 2771-0468) also runs express buses between San José and San Isidro that leave roughly every hour between 5am and 6pm from Calle 5, between avenidas 18 and 20. Whichever company you choose, the trip takes a little over 3 hours, and the fare is roughly $3.40 (£1.70). Return buses depart San Isidro for San José roughly every hour between 5am and 6pm.
Buses from Quepos to San Isidro leave daily at 5am and 1:30pm. Trip duration is 3 1/2 hours; the fare is $3 (£1.50). Buses to or from Golfito and Puerto Jiménez will also drop you off in San Isidro.
Orientation
Downtown San Isidro is just off the Interamerican Highway. A large church fronts the central park, and you'll find several banks, and a host of restaurants, shops, and hotels within a 2-block radius of this park. The main bus station is 2 blocks west of the north end of the central park.
Little Devils
If you're visiting the San Isidro area in February, head out to the nearby Rey Curré village for the Fiesta of the Diablitos, where costumed Boruca Indians perform dances representative of the Spanish conquest of Central America. The 3-day event also includes fireworks and an Indian handicraft market -- this is the best place in Costa Rica to buy hand-carved Boruca masks. The date varies, so it's best to call the Costa Rica Tourist Board (tel. 800/327-7033 in the U.S. and Canada) for more information.
