Exploring the Area

At 3,759m (12,330 ft.) in elevation, Mount Chirripó is the tallest mountain in Costa Rica. If you're headed up this way, come prepared for chilly weather. Actually, dress in layers and come prepared for all sorts of weather: Because of the great elevations, temperatures frequently dip below freezing, especially at night. However, during the day, temperatures can soar -- remember, you're still only 9 degrees from the equator. The elevation and radical temperatures have produced an environment here that's very different from the Costa Rican norm. Above 3,000m (9,840 ft.), only stunted trees and shrubs survive in páramos. If you're driving the Interamerican Highway between San Isidro and San José, you'll pass through a páramo on the Cerro de la Muerte.

Hiking up to the top of Mount Chirripó is one of Costa Rica's best adventures. On a clear day (usually in the morning), an unforgettable view is your reward: You can see both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea from the summit. You can do this trip fairly easily on your own if you've brought gear and are an experienced backpacker. Although it's possible to hike from the park entrance to the summit and back down in 2 days (in fact, some daredevils even do it in 1 day), it's best to allow 3 to 4 days for the trip in order to give yourself time to enjoy your hike fully and spend some time on top because that's where the glacier lakes and páramos are. For much of the way, you'll be hiking through cloud forests that are home to abundant tropical fauna, including the spectacular quetzal, Costa Rica's most beautiful bird. However, quetzal sightings on summit climbs are rare. If you really want to see one of these birds, head to one of the specialized lodges listed below.

There are several routes to the top of Mount Chirripó. The most popular, by far, leaves from San Gerardo de Rivas. However, it's also possible to start your hike from the nearby towns of Herradura or Canaan. All these places are within a mile or so of each other, reached by the same major road out of San Isidro. San Gerardo is the most popular because it's the easiest route to the top and has the greatest collections of small hotels and lodges, as well as the National Parks office. Information on all of these routes is available at the parks office.

When you're at the summit lodge, there are a number of hiking options. Just in front of the lodge are Los Crestones (the Crests), an impressive rock formation, with trails leading up and around them. The most popular, however, is to the actual summit (the lodge itself is a bit below), which is about a 2-hour hike that passes through the Valle de los Conejos (Rabbit Valley) and the Valle de los Lagos (Valley of Lakes). Other hikes and trails lead off from the summit lodge, and it's easy to spend a couple of days hiking around here. A few trails will take you to the summits of several neighboring peaks. These hikes should be undertaken only after carefully studying an accurate map and talking to park rangers and other hikers.

Entry Point, Fees & Regulations -- Although it's not that difficult to get to Chirripó National Park from nearby San Isidro, it's still rather remote. And to see it fully, you have to be prepared to hike. To get to the trail head, you have three choices: car, taxi, or bus. If you choose to drive, take the road out of San Isidro, heading north toward San Gerardo de Rivas, which is some 20km (12 miles) down the road. Otherwise, you can catch a bus in San Isidro that will take you directly to the trail head in San Gerardo de Rivas. Buses leave daily at 5am from the western side of the central park in San Isidro. It costs 80¢ (40p) one-way and takes 1 1/2 hours. Another bus departs at 2pm from a bus station 200m (656 ft.) south of the park. Buses return to San Isidro daily at 7am and 4pm. A taxi from town should cost around $15 to $20 (£7.50-£10). Because the hike to the summit of Mount Chirripó can take between 6 and 12 hours, depending on your physical condition, I recommend taking a taxi or the early bus so that you can start hiking when the day is still young. Better still, you should arrive the day before and spend the night in San Gerardo de Rivas (there are inexpensive cabinas and one nice hotel there) before setting out early the following morning.

Before climbing Mount Chirripó, you must make a reservation and check in with the National Parks office (tel. 2742-5083; fax 2742-5085) in San Gerardo de Rivas. The office is open from 6:30am to 4:30pm daily. Even if you have a reservation, I highly recommend checking in the day before you plan to climb if possible. If you plan to stay at the lodge near the summit, you must make reservations in advance because accommodations there are limited. Note that camping is not allowed in the park. It's possible to have your gear carried up to the summit by horseback during the dry season (Dec-Apr). Guides work outside the park entrance in San Gerardo de Rivas. They charge between $20 and $30 (£10-£15) per pack, depending on size and weight. In the rainy season the same guides work, but they take packs up by themselves, not by horseback. The guides like to take up the packs well before dawn, so arrangements are best made the day before.

The entrance fee to the national park is $15 (£7.50) per day.

Other Adventures in the Area -- If you want to undertake any other adventures while in San Isidro, contact Costa Rica Trekking Adventures (tel. 2771-4582; fax 2771-8841; www.chirripo.com), or CIPROTUR (tel. 2771-6096; www.ecotourism.co.cr). Both offer organized treks through Chirripó National Park, as well as white-water rafting trips and other adventure tours and activities.

Just 7km (4 1/3 miles) from San Isidro is Las Quebradas Biological Center (tel./fax 2771-4131), a community-run private reserve with 2.7km (1 3/4 miles) of trails through primary rainforest. There's a rustic lodge for visitors and researchers ($25/£13 per person; $15/£7.50 students, including three meals), and camping is also permitted. You can hike the trails here and visit the small information center on-site for $5 (£2.50). From San Isidro, you can take a local bus to Quebradas, but you'll have to walk the last mile to the entrance. You can also take a taxi for around $8 (£4). If you're driving, take the road to Morazán and Quebradas.

Rest Your Weary Muscles Here -- If you're tired and sore from so much hiking, be sure to check out the small Herradura Hot Springs (tel. 8391-8107) located off the road between San Gerardo de Rivas and Herradura. The entrance to the springs is 1km ( 1/2 mile) beyond San Gerardo de Rivas. The entrance fee is $3 (£1.50).