Neighborhoods in Brief

Old San Juan This is the most historic area in the West Indies. Filled with Spanish colonial architecture and under constant restoration, it lies on the western end of an islet. It's encircled by water; on the north is the Atlantic Ocean and on the south and west is the tranquil San Juan Bay. Ponte San Antonio bridge connects the Old Town with "mainland" Puerto Rico. Ramparts and old Spanish fortresses form its outer walls.

Puerta de Tierra Translated as "gateway to the land" or "gateway to the island," Puerta de Tierra lies just east of the old city walls of San Juan. It is split by Avenida Ponce de León and interconnects Old San Juan with the Puerto Rican "mainland." Founded by freed black slaves, the settlement today functions as the island's administrative center and is the site of military and government buildings, including the capital and various U.S. naval reserves.

Miramar Miramar is an upscale residential neighborhood across the bridge from Puerta de Tierra. Yachts anchor in its waters on the bay side of Ponte Isla Grande, and some of the finest homes in Puerto Rico are found here. It's also the site of Isla Grande Airport, where you can board flights to the islands of Vieques and Culebra.

Condado Linked to Puerta de Tierra and Old San Juan by a bridge built in 1910, the Condado was once known as the Riviera of the Caribbean, enjoying a voguish reputation in the 1920s. This beach-bordering district is wedged between the Atlantic Ocean and several large inland bodies of water, including the lakelike Los Corozos and Lagunas Condado. Over the years the area has declined. It is now a cliché to compare it to Miami Beach. But like Miami Beach, the Condado is making major improvements, although many parts of it remain seedy and in need of restoration. The putas (prostitutes), pimps, and drug dealers are still here, but there are many fine deluxe hotels as well. Much of the Condado architecture today is viewed as "kitsch," the way Art Deco on Miami Beach is prized. The area is especially popular with gays, but straights also flock here, especially those attracted to the beaches during cruise-ship stopovers. Much of the Condado has been turned into timeshare condos.

Ocean Park Dividing the competitive beach resort areas of the Condado and Isla Verde, Ocean Park is a beachfront residential neighborhood that's sometimes plagued by flooding, especially during hurricanes. It's completely built up today with houses that are smaller and more spread out than those in the Condado district. Beaches here are slightly less crowded than those at Condado or Isla Verde. Because several gay guesthouses are located here, some of the beaches of Ocean Park are popular with gay men.

Villa Palmeras Villa Palmeras is a residential sector and business area of San Juan, an eastern extension of the Santurce district. Its far eastern frontier opens onto Laguna Los Corozos. On the eastern side of the water is the international airport. From the Old Town, Route 26 east takes you to this district.

Isla Verde East of the Condado, en route to the airport, Isla Verde -- technically known as the "Carolina" section of San Juan -- is the chief rival of the Condado. Because much of the Condado is in need of massive rejuvenation, many of the great resorts have fled east to Isla Verde, which has better, cleaner beaches. Don't come here for history or romance. Two features put Isla Verde on the tourist map: some of San Juan's best beaches and its most deluxe hotels. This district appeals to travelers who like a hotel to be a virtual theme park, with everything under one roof -- entertainment, vast selections of dining, convenient shopping, pools, and an array of planned activities. Isla Verde is the Las Vegas of San Juan. The area roughly lies between Ocean Park and the San Juan airport. When visitors get tired of all this glamour and glitz, they can taxi into Old San Juan for museum hopping and shopping.

Hato Rey Situated to the south of the Martín Peña canal, this area was a marsh until landfill and concrete changed it forever. Today it is the Wall Street of the West Indies, filled with many high-rises, a large federal complex, and many business and banking offices.

Rio Piedras South of Hato Rey and Santurce, this is the site of the University of Puerto Rico. It's dominated by the landmark Roosevelt Bell Tower, named for Theodore Roosevelt, who donated the money for its construction. The main thoroughfare is Paseo de Diego, site of a popular local produce market. The Agricultural Experimental Station of Puerto Rico maintains a botanical garden that includes many tropical plants, including 125 species of palms.

Bayamon The San Juan sprawl has reached this once-distant southwestern suburb, which was once farmland. Some 207,000 people and nearly 200 factories are now located in this large district. Bus no. 46 from the center of San Juan runs out here.