Hotels

San Martín has many, many hosterías and cabanas. And at last, there is a luxury option on the horizon, with the construction of the 80-room Loi Suites at the Chapelco Golf Resort. If you arrive in town without a reservation, your first stop should be the Oficina de Turismo , next to the main plaza, which has an updated list of availabilities and prices. Rates almost double in most places from December 18 to March 1. For more information, go to www.sanmartindelosandes.gov.ar.

Cabanas

San Martín has more than three dozen cabana complexes, ranging from attached units to detached A-frames. The quality varies somewhat; generally, the real difference between each is size, so always ask if a cabin for four means one bedroom and two fold-out beds in the living room. Cabanas are a great deal for parties of four to six. They're usually less expensive than hotels and come with small kitchens. During the off season, couples will find reasonably priced cabanas; however, many places charge a full six-person price during high season.

On the upscale end (doubles at around $50/£28 in low season, and $110/£61 in high), try the following: Claro del Bosque, Belgrano 1083 (tel. 02972/427451; fax 02972/428434; www.clarodelbosque.com.ar), is a Swiss Alpine-style building tucked away at the end of a street on a wooded lot. The managers are very friendly and accommodating. If they're fully occupied here (which is common), ask about their brand-new complex of charming apartments nearby. Appart Niwen, G. Obeid 640 (tel. 02972/425888; www.niwen.com.ar), has similar accommodations and rates, though it's a tad less charming than the cabanas above.

If you'd like to get out of town, try Paihuen's beautiful stone-and-mortar attached cabanas in a forested lot at Ruta Nacional 234, Km 48 (tel./fax 02972/428154; www.paihuen.com.ar). It's is an upscale resort-style complex with one of the best wine bars in the area. Aldea Misonet, Los Cipreses 1801 (tel./fax 02972/421821; www.aldeamisonet.com), has wood-and-stone attached units that sit at the edge of town; some units overlook a gurgling stream, as does the terrace. Near the lakeshore, Terrazas del Pinar, Juez de Valle 1174 (tel./fax 02972/429316; www.interpatagonia.com/terrazasdelpinar), has a children's play area.

Cabanas with doubles ranging from $18 to $65 (£9.90-£36), according to season, include the following: El Ciervo Rojo, Almirante Brown 445 (tel./fax 02972/427949; cabanaselciervorojo@smandes.com.ar), has nice wooden cabins; cheaper units have open second-story sleeping areas. Del Lácar, Coronel Rohde 1144 (tel./fax 02972/427679; www.interpatagonia.com/dellacar), has several large, detached wooden cabins. Las Rosas, Almirante Brown 290 (tel./fax 02972/422002; www.cablasrosas.com.ar), has pretty whitewashed units half a block from the shore. Le Village offers cabanas as well as regular hotel rooms.

On the edge of town, Cabañas Arique (tel. 02972/429262; www.arique.com) are extremely charming, with lots of local wood, fireplaces, and modern kitchens; there's also a small shared barbecue area and a heated outdoor pool. Cabins are $30 to $58 (£17-£32) double, $40 to $68 (£22-£37) for four people.

Note: Prices fluctuate wildly according to who makes the reservation; speak Spanish and you'll likely get a lower rate. Feel free to bargain when making your reservations. Make your final offer if you find the price too high -- the owners may very well take whatever you offer, especially during low season.