Restaurants

In San Miguel, vegetarians will have no problem -- most restaurants have legitimate meat-free main courses. For the best baked goods (pastries, French bread, croissants, and cakes), try El Petit Four, Calle Mesones 99-1, down the street from the Angela Peralta Theater. It's open Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm, Sunday from 10am to 6pm. There's a small seating area, or you can take your baked goods with you. The shop also sells coffee.

To sample some of the people's food, you might try Cenaduría La Alborada at Sollano 11 (tel. 415/513-0577), by the main square. It's a traditional sort of supper place where you can get a nourishing bowl of pozole or a plate of enchiladas. It's open Monday to Saturday from 2pm to 1am. For tacos, try Los Faroles, at Ancha de San Antonio 28-C (tel. 451/152-1849). The owners sell a variety of tacos de parrilla (tacos with grilled meats) and volcanes (a toasted tortilla topped with meat and cheese).

Finally, there's another dining option that's a 10-minute ride east of town. An Italian chef has taken over a small part of the former Hacienda de Landeta and has a "country-kitchen" thing going on there -- outdoor dining, chalkboard menu, unhurried personal service. Local residents love it. Amid crumbling walls and ancient trees, the setting has a gracious old-world feel to it. The menu always includes fresh pasta dishes, usually a fish dish and three or four Italian specialties. Chef Andreas personally attends his customers from Thursday to Sunday starting around 2pm. He has only a few tables, so make reservations (tel. 415/120-3481).