Attractions

San Remo’s new underground railway station, buried into the coastal hills much like its counterpart in nearby Monaco, is sleek and clean, but there are a few disadvantages. For one thing, the walk from the tracks to the exit is formidable (Note: Leave plenty of time to catch a train), and the walk from there to the center of town is also considerably longer than from the old station, which sits downtown, just by the coast. This leads to the final problem: Even today, a decade after the newer station was built, some locals might give you directions to a hotel, restaurant, and such, referring to the “train station,” when, in fact, they mean the former station. Now home to the municipal library, the old station remains a primary point of reference.

To get downtown from the new train station, walk straight out of the exit, cross Corso Cavallotti, and continue downhill until you reach Corso Trento e Trieste. Take a right on that road, which hugs the shore and leads to the old port. To the right of the old station are the beginnings of Corso Roma and Corso Giacomo, San Remo’s two main thoroughfares. Corso Giacomo will lead you past the casino (see below) and into the heart of the lively business district. Continue on that until it becomes Via Matteotti, which, after a block, runs into Piazza Colombo and the flower market. If you turn left (north) on Via Feraldi about midway down Corso Giacomo, you will find yourself in the charming older precincts of town. Continue through the Piazza degli Eroi Sanremesi to Piazza Mercato, where Via Monta leads into the old medieval quarter, La Pigna. The hill on which this fascinating district is located resembles a pine cone in its conical shape, hence the name. Aside from a few restaurants, La Pigna is today a residential quarter, with tall old houses that overshadow the narrow lanes that twist and turn up the hillside to the park-enclosed ruins of a castle at the top.

A Day at the Beach -- Plunging into the Ligurian Sea in San Remo means spending some money. The pebbly beach below the Passeggiata dell’Imperatrice is lined with beach stations, where many visitors choose to spend their days: easy to do, since most provide showers, snack bars, and, of course, beach chairs, lounges, and umbrellas. Expect to spend up to 10€ for a basic lounge, but more like 15€ for a more elaborate sun-bed arrangement with umbrella. Note: As is standard at most European resort towns without “public” sections of beach (which are usually not very nice anyway), you cannot go onto the beach without paying for at least a lounge chair.

Visiting the Casino

Set intimidatingly atop a long flight of steps across from the old train station—Corso degli Inglesi swoops around it off Corso Matteotti—San Remo’s white palace of a casino ([tel] 0184-5951) not only lords over the center of town, it’s also the hub of the local nightlife scene. You can’t step foot inside without being properly attired (jacket for gents Oct–June) and showing your passport. You must be 18 or older to enter. There are poker tables starting at 2€ games, but there are more serious tables that attract high rollers from the length of the Riviera. Gaming rooms are open daily 2:30pm to 3am (to 4am on weekends). Things are more relaxed in the rooms set aside for slot machines, where there is no dress code. It’s open Sunday to Friday 10am to 3am.