After driving for close to an hour without passing anything but lush green hills (especially from Hwy. 46 off U.S. 101), it's a pleasant surprise to roll into the endearing coastal town of Cambria (pronounced Cam-bree-uh), 6 miles south of San Simeon. Not quite Northern California and not quite Southern California, not quite coastal and not quite inland, this charming artists' colony is so appealing that the town itself is reason enough to make the drive. With little more than 4 blocks' worth of shops, restaurants, and a handful of B&Bs, Cambria is the perfect place to escape the everyday, enjoy the endless expanses of pristine coastal terrain, and meander through little shops selling local artwork and antiques.
Cambria has three distinct parts. Along Main Street is "the Village," which is divided into two sections: the West Village and the East Village. The West Village is the newer, somewhat more touristy end of town where you'll find the visitor information center. The more historic East Village is a bit quieter, more locals oriented, and a tad more sophisticated than the West Village. If you cross Highway 1 to the coastal side at the far west end of town (or the north end, if you're considering how the freeway runs), you'll reach Cambria's third part, Moonstone Beach. Lined with motels, inns, and a few restaurants on the inland side of the street, ocean-facing Moonstone Beach Drive is my favorite place to stay in Cambria.
Before you set out, pick up the Cambria Historical Society's brochure at your hotel and take a simple, fun self-guided tour of the historical buildings in the East Village. You'll not only get a history lesson about this picturesque village, but you'll also discover a few places you may have overlooked otherwise, such as the blacksmith shop at 4121 Burton Dr. or the Santa Rosa Chapel and Cemetery at 2352 Main St.
An overnight stay in Cambia also allows visitors to see the coastal region's "new" attraction: a spring (yes, that's the correct term -- I looked it up) of elephant seals sunning themselves on the beaches year-round. Once thought to be extinct, since 1990 these 3,000-pound mammals have returned to Piedras Blancas, an elephant seal rookery 12 miles north of Cambria. Today more than 2,000 of these magnificent, prehistoric-looking beasts are counted here annually. Breeding takes place here December through March; molting occurs August through September. Keep your distance from the elephant seals: They're a protected species and can be dangerous if approached. Finding the beach is easy: Just stop at the packed parking lot 4 1/2 miles north of Hearst Castle and follow the crowds along the short, sandy walk for a good vantage. Docents wearing blue jackets are usually on hand to answer questions. The beaches and coves are also great places for humans to cavort as well. For more information see www.beachcalifornia.com/piedras.html.
