An Excursion to San Fruttuoso
Much of the Monte Portofino Promontory can be approached only on foot or by boat , making it a prime destination for hikers. If you want to combine some excellent exercise with the pleasure of glimpsing magnificent views of the sea through a lush forest, arm yourself with a map from the tourist offices in Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino, or Rapallo and set out for Abbazia di San Fruttuoso (tel. 0185-772-703). This medieval religious community, surrounded by a tiny six-house hamlet and two pebbly beaches, is about 2 1/2 hours away from any of the above-mentioned towns (though Camogli and Portofino are closest, as they immediately flank the promontory on which Abbazia di San Fruttuoso sits) by a not-too-strenuous inland hike, or 3 1/2 hours away by a cliff-hugging trail. En route, you can clamor down well-posted paths that descend from the main path to visit San Rocco, San Niccolo, and Punta Chiappa, a string of fishing hamlets hugging the shore of the promontory.
Once you reach San Fruttuoso, you may well want to relax on the pebbly beach and enjoy a beverage or meal at one of the seaside bars. You can tour the stark interior of the abbey for 6€ ($7.80). It is open June to September daily 10am to 5:45pm; in May Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 5:45pm; March, April, and October Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 3:30pm; and December to February Saturday and Sunday 10am to 3:30pm. Note, though, that despite these official hours, the abbey tends to close whenever the last boat leaves . The abbey is just a plain, evocatively simple medieval monastic complex with a stellar setting on the coast. There's nothing really to "see" except how the monks lived. Should you happen to have your scuba or snorkeling gear along, you can take the plunge to visit Christ of the Depths, a statue of Jesus erected 15m (49 ft.) beneath the surface to honor sailors lost at sea.
You can also visit San Fruttuoso with one of the boats that run almost every hour during the summer months from Camogli. A round-trip costs 9€ ($12) and takes about 30 minutes each way. For more information, contact Golfo Paradiso (tel. 0185-772-091; www.golfoparadiso.it). Note: You can also reach it by hourly (in summer) Tigullio boats (tel. 0185-284-670; www.traghettiportofino.it) from Portofino (20 min.; 9€/$12), Santa Margherita (35 min.; 13€/$17), and Rapallo (50 min.; 14€/$18). Bear in mind that the seas are often too choppy to take passengers to San Fruttuoso, since docking there can be tricky. In that case, there are private boats you can take -- smaller, rubber crafts capable of bad-weather landings -- though they are expensive: From Portofino, you will likely be charged 100€ ($130). They carry up to 12 people.
