Paladar Las Gallegas

Four sisters run this friendly, down-home place just a couple of blocks from Parque Céspedes. Portions are reasonable, the food is okay, and the spacious dining room -- a cross between a living room and a salon -- has a peaked beam ceiling, seven tables (including two on narrow balconies overlooking the street), an ornate chandelier, and red satin curtains. There's the predictable fried chicken, but also chicken fricasse, pork steaks, and ham. All dishes come with rice and salad. Go early or late; on many nights, the tiny place is full, though the wait usually isn't long.

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