ZunZún

This elegant and upscale restaurant occupies a handsome 1940s house in the Vista Alegre neighborhood. It has four private salons for intimate dining, and a couple of tables on a broad front veranda, which are my favorites. With relatively soft lighting, marble floors, and period furnishings -- some original to the house -- ZunZún (formerly Tocororo) is the place in town to splurge. Everything is very well prepared and nicely presented. It's especially good for seafood, such as a delicious mixed grill of fish and shellfish; medallions of lobster, shellfish, and shrimp; and garlic shrimp. Carnivores can opt for a beef filet in red-wine sauce or ropa vieja (shredded beef). The tables here have white tablecloths and candles -- rarities in Cuba.

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