Frommer's Review
Now in a new location downtown, within the stylish Saratoga Hotel (the restaurant used to be out of town, in a 1950s stainless-steel diner), this insiders' favorite continues to serve simple but sophisticated French bistro fare. The young chef is the son of Sophie, who began her eponymous restaurant up this way in 1969; now Paul and his wife, Cheryl, continue the tradition but have added some new wrinkles -- not the least of which is the chic modern ambience of the new location. The menu is creative without being fussy, focusing on fresh ingredients and the best organic produce, meats, and fish from local suppliers. The menu changes frequently, but mains have included a yummy roast pork loin with honeybell gastrique and black currant, and veal scaloppine with cream and lemon (a Sophie's specialty since 1969). There's a superb, expertly chosen and almost entirely French wine list, with several moderately priced bottles and a surprisingly well-chosen beer list (featuring 40 Belgian beers). In "honor of the restaurant's diner heritage," it offers a terrific midweek (Mon-Thurs) bargain, the Pink Plate Special, a prix-fixe, three-course meal for $30. Breakfast is now served daily, and brunch is served on Sundays, accompanied by a jazz pianist.
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