Regions in Brief

Touring the Area

To tour the Sea of Galilee, we'll head north, starting a circle that will bring us back to Tiberias before heading into the Upper Galilee region. As of this writing there is no regular bus route that completely circles the lake, so you'll have to depend on a tour bus, rental car, bicycle, or boat.

Magdala & Migdal -- Two miles north of Tiberias along the lakeside road, you'll come to the old village of Magdala, the birthplace of Mary Magdalene. There's not much to see, except for lovely scenery. The town was right down by the water's edge. On the hill just to the south of old Magdala, along the far (west) side of the highway, you can still see the sarcophagi (stone coffins) carved out of the rocks, in the place that was Magdala's cemetery. The modern town of Migdal, founded in the 20th century, is about 1.6km (1 mile) to the north of the site of ancient Magdala.

The Ginossar Valley -- A little farther on, about 10km (6 miles) north of Tiberias, you'll find yourself in a lush valley with many banana trees. These are part of the agriculture of Kibbutz Nof Ginossar, and the valley is the Ginossar Valley. In the kibbutz, you'll find the multimedia Yigal Alon Museum of the Galilee (tel. 04/672-2905), more a learning experience than a museum, offers only one genuine antiquity, a Galilee fishing boat, from approximately the 1st century A.D., preserved in the muddy sediment of the lake floor and revealed in the 1980s when, because of drought, the lake receded to record low levels. The boat is touted by some guides as "the Jesus boat." Although it may be typical of fishing boats from the time of Jesus, there is, of course, no evidence that ties it to any specific persons. The wooden frame of the boat is preserved in a climate-controlled boathouse structure. The museum is open Sunday to Thursday 8am to 5pm and Friday from 8am to 1pm, and on Saturday from 9am to 5pm; admission to the museum and boat is NIS 20 ($4.40); to the boat only (of special interest to pilgrimage groups) NIS 12 ($2.65).

Tabgha -- 14km (8 miles) north of Tiberias.

To reach Tabgha, where Jesus miraculously multiplied the loaves and fishes, proceed northward along the shoreline from Migdal, passing Minya, a 7th-century Arabian palace that is one of the most ancient and holy Muslim prayer sites. It's open daily from 8am to 4pm.

At Tabgha, you'll find the beautifully restored Benedictine monastery and the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes (tel. 04/672-1061). When the ancient church ruins, hidden for 1,300 years, were excavated, the mosaic basilica floor of a Byzantine-era church that once stood on this site was found. The floor is one of the most lyrical and skillfully made ever discovered in Israel. The section of the floor in front of the ancient altar is starkly unadorned and interesting mainly for what it depicts: two fish and a humble basket filled with loaves of bread. The main section of mosaic is a colorful tapestry of all the birds that once thrived in this area: swans, cranes, ducks, wild geese, and storks. The mosaic artist has captured the liveliness, humor, and grace of these creatures with a style rarely seen in this art form. The Nilometer, used to measure the flood levels of the Nile and famous throughout the ancient world, is also represented, leading some to speculate that the talented mosaic designer might have been Egyptian.

Be sure to read the history of this church posted just inside the entrance, in the church's courtyard. The early Judeo-Christians of nearby Capernaum (Kefar Nahum) venerated a large rock, upon which Jesus is said to have placed the bread and fish when he fed the 5,000. The rock, a natural dolmen, is believed by historians to have been a sacred place since prehistoric times, and was used as the altar in a Byzantine church erected over the spot in about A.D. 350.

The church is open Monday to Saturday from 8:30am to 5pm and Sun 10am to 5pm; modest dress is required. Admission is free, but donations are accepted. There's also a good bookstore and souvenir shop on the premises.

Just east of the Multiplication Church is the Heptapegon ("Seven Springs" in Greek), also called the Church of the Primacy of Saint Peter, or Mensa Christi. To reach it, you must leave the Multiplication Church, return to the highway, turn right, and climb the hill to a separate entrance. This Greek Orthodox church is open daily from 8:30am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm; modest dress is required, and admission is free.

It was here on the shores of Galilee that Jesus is believed to have appeared to his disciples after his crucifixion and resurrection. Peter and the others were in a boat on the lake, fishing, but with no luck. When Jesus appeared, he told them to cast their nets again. They did, and couldn't haul in the nets because they were so full of fish. As the disciples sat with their master having dinner, Jesus is said to have conferred the leadership of the movement on Peter, as first among the disciples. The theory of Peter's primacy, and the tradition of that primacy's being passed from one generation of disciples to the next, is the basis for the legitimacy of the Roman pontiff as leader of Christendom.

The black basalt church rests on the foundations of earlier churches. Within is a flat rock called Mensa Christi, or "Christ's Table," where Jesus dined that evening with his disciples. Outside the church, you can still see the stone steps said to be the place where Jesus stood when he appeared, calling out to the disciples; on the beach are seven large stones, which may once have supported a little fishing wharf. If it's not too hot, you can easily walk to nearby Capernaum (3km/2 miles) and even to the Mount of Beatitudes.

Mount of the Beatitudes -- 8km (5 miles) north of Ginossar; 3km (2 miles) north of Capernaum.

Just beyond Tabgha, on a high hill, is the famous Mount of the Beatitudes, now the site of an Italian convent. Here Jesus preached the Sermon on the Mount. There are many good views of the Sea of Galilee and its surroundings, but the vista from here is among the most magnificent. One odd fact about this church is the inscription on the sanctuary, which informs you that the entire project was built by Mussolini in 1937. The church is open daily from 8:30am to noon and 2:30 to 5pm. Admission is free. Take bus no. 459, 541, or 963 from Tiberias. Ask the driver to let you off at the closest stop, which is 1km (1/2 mile) from the church.

Capernaum (Kefar Nahum) -- This site marks the prosperous lakeside town where Jesus preached, and his disciples, Peter and Andrew, made their homes. Today, you'll find a modern Franciscan monastery, which was built on the abandoned site in 1894, as well as ancient excavations spanning 6 centuries. Among the most impressive are the ruins of a 3rd- or 4th-century synagogue built on the site of an even earlier synagogue. Nearby are several houses of the period and a 5th-century octagonal church built over the ruins of the traditional site of Saint Peter's house. Byzantine architects frequently built domed octagonal structures over places of special veneration (the octagonal Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem, built by early Muslim rulers in A.D. 691, but designed by Byzantine architects, is an example of this type of structure). Other finds include an ancient olive press, and a 2nd-century marble milestone on the Via Maris (Coastal Rd.), the Roman route that stretched from Egypt to Lebanon (an inland extension to the Via Maris passed through this district).

Capernaum was the home of perhaps four of Jesus' other original followers; it was the place where Jesus began to gather his disciples around him, saying, "Follow me, and I will make you fishers of men."

Capernaum's splendid synagogue was built of imported white limestone rather than native black basalt. The ruins include tall columns, marble steps, shattered statuary, a doorway facing south to Jerusalem, and many ancient symbols: carved seven-branched menorahs, stars of David, palm branches, and rams' horns. It's not the actual synagogue in which Jesus taught, since it dates from around the 3rd or 4th century A.D., but it may stand on the same site. It is interesting to speculate on what the proximity of Saint Peter's house to the synagogue might tell us about the position of his family in the community. The excavations of basalt stone in the garden lead toward the sea, where you can still glimpse the remains of a small-boat basin with steps leading to the water. Admission is NIS 4 (90¢); the site is open daily from 8:30am to 4:15pm.

Korazim -- Four kilometers (6 miles) north of the lake, on a rise of land, with sweeping views of the lake, are the ruins of Korazim (Chorazin), a flourishing Jewish town in Roman times. According to the New Testament, Korazim was one of the towns chastised by Jesus. For a thousand years the ruins of this village lay hidden under an ocean of impassable thistles until the land was cleared in the late 20th century. The centerpiece of this village is a large 4th- to 5th-century A.D. synagogue made of local black basalt, heavily ornamented with carved grapevines, birds, animals, and images of people harvesting the bounty of the land. You can also visit lightly reconstructed streets, houses, and a ritual bath attached to the synagogue, which was apparently destroyed either by earthquake or during civil unrest in the 7th century. A ceremonial chair carved from basalt, which served as the seat of honor for the synagogue, is especially interesting. This is a hauntingly evocative site that gives the visitor a feeling for what a Jewish community in the Galilee was like 1,500 years ago. The national park office here (tel. 04/693-4982) is open from 5am to 4pm; in summer to 5pm. Admission to the site is NIS 18 ($4); children NIS 8 ($1.75).

At the Korazim-Almagor crossroad between Tiberias and Rosh Pinna is the beautiful guest farm and dude ranch, Vered HaGalil Guest Farm, Restaurant, and Horseback Riding Facility.

Kursi -- 17km (11 miles) from Tiberias; 7km (4 1/2 miles) north of Ein Gev.

Kursi is on the eastern shore; according to the Gospels, it is the "country of the Gergesenes" (or Gadarenes), where Jesus cast the demons out of a man who was possessed and into a herd of swine, which then plunged into the lake and drowned.

For many years, speculation existed about the exact location of Kursi (also called Gergasa) and about what kind of religious structure might have been built here in commemoration of the casting out of the demons. After the Six-Day War, a bulldozer clearing the way for a new road happened to uncover the ruins of a Byzantine church complex, complete with a monastery (perhaps the largest ever built in the Holy Land), dating from the 5th to 7th centuries. The monastery apparently contained hostel facilities for the thousands of pilgrims who came to the Galilee during Byzantine times. Over the decades, a large basilica with an intricate mosaic floor has been uncovered, as well as a cave chapel that may have marked the place (according to the Gospel of Mark, a tomb) where Jesus encountered the possessed man. Most remarkable among the discoveries was the underground crypt where more than 30 skeletons were found, all of middle-aged men, except for one child. There is a place to buy votive candles, and a snack counter. The national park at Kursi (tel. 04/673-1983) is open daily from 8am to 4pm ('til 5pm in summer); admission is NIS 12 ($2.40); children NIS 6 ($1.20).

Ein Gev -- 12km (7 1/2 miles) north of Tzemach Junction; 7km (4 1/2 miles) south of Kursi.

About two-thirds of the way south along the lake's eastern shore brings you to Kibbutz Ein Gev, one of the loveliest places in Israel. You can stop by and take a free minitrain tour of the kibbutz (ask at the office next to the Ein Gev restaurant). Nestled between the hills of Golan and the lakefront, Ein Gev was founded in 1937 by German, Austrian, and Czechoslovakian refugees. (It was former Jerusalem mayor Teddy Kollek's kibbutz.) These days Ein Gev has a 5,000-seat auditorium, which has presented some of the world's greatest musicians at its annual music festival. On the hillsides are tiers of vineyards, and elsewhere on the grounds are a banana plantation and date groves. Fishing is another big industry here; Ein Gev is home to the country's largest restaurant, serving Saint Peter's fish straight from the Sea of Galilee. The kibbutz also offers accommodations at Ein Gev Resort Village.

Not far from the auditorium, in a garden, is a bronze statue by the Israeli sculptress, Hanna Orloff, depicting a woman holding a child aloft, in memory of a young mother-to-be from the kibbutz who was killed in the 1948 battle for Ein Gev. This settlement bore the brunt of heavy attacks in the 1948 war, and its position at the foot of the Golan Heights, below heavy Syrian military emplacements, made it a perennial target. From 1949 to 1967, Ein Gev kibbutz members depended on an endless maze of slit trenches throughout the grounds, as well as concrete underground shelters.

It's easy to get to Ein Gev from Tiberias by bus no. 22, or via ferry. Farther south along the lake is a campsite, at Kibbutz Ha-On with its ostrich farm and moderately priced Holiday Village and Bed & Breakfast accommodations; continue south along the shoreline and you'll come to Ma'agan, with its Holiday Village. Ma'agan is very near the junction for the road to the hot-spring resort of Hammat Gader. (Ask at the tourism information office in Tiberias or at the Tzemach Junction for information on other campsites around the lake and in the vicinity.)

Hammat Gader -- The hot springs of Hammat Gader (tel. 04/675-1039), east of the southern tip of the Sea of Galilee, are a favorite Israeli spa and vacation spot. Nestled in the valley of the Yarmuk River, this dramatic site has been occupied for almost 4,500 years.

The springs can be reached by bus from Tiberias. Bus schedules vary according to season, so check with the bus station for a morning departure and afternoon returns. Hammat Gader is 22km (14 miles) southeast of Tiberias. If you're driving, it's 8.5km (about 5 miles) east of the junction with Route 92 that skirts the eastern side of the lake. As you wind down the steep road into the Yarmuk Valley, you'll pass several sentry and guard posts. The steep hillside on the other side of the valley is Jordan; you are also close to the Syrian border.

The Roman city here was first constructed in the 3rd century A.D., restored and beautified in the 7th century, and destroyed by an earthquake around 900. The ruins of the Roman spa city are extensive and significant, and several important parts (the baths, the theater) have been excavated and beautifully restored. The still-apparent elegance of the Oval Hall, the Hall of Fountains, and the Hall of Pillars in the Spring Area point to the magnificence of this rustic resort in ancient times. Don't miss the wonderful lions of the mosaic synagogue floor (5th c. A.D.). The ruins are set up as a self-guiding tour (ask at the park office about guided tours of the park).

The spa was known as El-Hamma to the Arabs and Turks, and the site is dominated by the minaret of a mosque that has fallen into disuse and been disfigured by graffiti.

There are swimming pools, hot sulfur springs, and baths for medical therapy and beauty treatments; there is an alligator farm in a jungle setting with elevated walkways. For the kids, the park has trampolines and water slides. You will also find showers, changing rooms, a bar, and a restaurant. Admission Sunday to Friday costs NIS 50 ($11); on Saturday and holidays, it is NIS 60 ($13), NIS 45 ($10) after 6pm. Bring your own towel and bathing suit. Sit in the far end of the warm-water pool and feel the mineral water crash down onto your back from the waterfall. Residents of the area as well as visitors come in droves (especially after work), often bringing picnics. The many clay oil lamps found here may indicate the ancient inhabitants of the area also enjoyed night bathing.

You'll find Hammat Gader's pools open Monday to Saturday 8am to 10:30pm; Sunday 8am to 4:30pm. Antiquities and children's activities close at 5pm. As if the ruins and hot springs were not enough, an alligator farm and a Thai restaurant housed in a Thai-style building have also been set up on the premises (if you dine at the restaurant, your admission to Hammat Gader is free). In 1993, there were rumors that alligators, either accidentally or through a deliberate act of sabotage, had escaped into the Sea of Galilee; no sightings or hunting parties led to anything more concrete than the Loch Ness monster.

Kibbutz Degania -- Located at the very southern tip of the Sea of Galilee, Degania is the country's very first kibbutz, founded in 1909 by Russian pioneers. Without any real experience in farming, this handful of self-made peasants left city jobs to fight malarial swamps and Arab bands. Much of the philosophical basis of kibbutz life was first formulated in this Jordan Valley settlement by its leader, A. D. Gordon. Gordon believed that a return to the soil and the honesty of manual work were the necessary ingredients for creating a new spirit in people. Although never a member of the kibbutz, he farmed until his death at age 74. On Degania's grounds a natural history museum, Bet Gordon (tel. 04/675-0040), contains a library and exhibition of the area's archaeology, flora, and fauna.

Degania grew so quickly that its citizens soon branched out to other settlements. The father of Moshe Dayan, the famous commander (with the eye patch) of the Sinai Campaign, left Degania to help establish Nahalal, Israel's largest moshav (cooperative settlement). Eventually, some of the Degania members split with the original Degania over political and philosophical issues and established their own kibbutz right next door, and called it simply Degania B. The older Degania is now called Degania A.

Outside the entrance to Degania, there's a small tank -- a reminder of the battle the inhabitants of Degania waged against Syrian tanks in 1948 (the members fought them off with Molotov cocktails). Today, both Degania A and B are thriving.

Rosh Pina -- This small town, 26km (42 miles) up the winding road from Tiberias to Safed, was founded by Jewish pioneers in 1882 as a cooperative farming settlement. The name "Rosh Pina" means "cornerstone," and indeed this settlement, the first new Jewish community to be founded in the Galilee in modern times, became the cornerstone for Jewish resettlement of the region. A smattering of original 19th-century cottages gives this sleepy community a bit of architectural charm. A number of spots in the upper town, such as Auberge Shulamit, offer fine vistas, and the town itself is a crossroad on the routes between Safed, Tiberias, the Hula Valley, and the extreme upper Galilee. It offers some of the best dining spots in the area, and if you're staying in restaurant-impoverished Safed and have a car, you may want to head this way for a good meal.