Exploring the Area

To tour the Sea of Galilee, we'll head north, starting a circle that will bring us back to Tiberias before heading into the Upper Galilee region. As of this writing there is no regular bus route that completely circles the lake, so you'll have to depend on a tour bus, rental car, bicycle, or boat.

Magdala & Migdal

Just over 3km (2 miles) north of Tiberias along the lakeside road, you'll come to the old village of Magdala, the birthplace of Mary Magdalene. There's not much to see, except for lovely scenery. The town was right down by the water's edge. On the hill just to the south of old Magdala, along the far (west) side of the highway, you can still see the sarcophagi (stone coffins) carved out of the rocks, in the place that was Magdala's cemetery. The modern town of Migdal, founded in the 20th century, is about 1.6km (1 mile) to the north of the site of ancient Magdala.

The Ginossar Valley

A little farther on, about 10km (6 miles) north of Tiberias, you'll find yourself in a lush valley with many banana trees. These are part of the agriculture of Kibbutz Nof Ginossar, one of the larger kibbutzim, with a vast and busy kibbutz hotel. In the kibbutz, you'll find the multimedia Yigal Alon Museum of the Galilee (tel. 04/672-7700; www.jesusboat.com). More a learning experience about the area than a museum, it offers only one genuine antiquity, a Galilee fishing boat, from approximately the 1st century A.D., preserved in the muddy sediment of the lake floor and revealed in the 1980s when, because of drought, the lake receded to record low levels. The boat is touted by some guides as "the Jesus boat." Although it may be typical of fishing boats from the time of Jesus, there is, of course, no evidence that ties it to any specific persons. Still, it's an amazing discovery, and of special interest to pilgrim groups. The wooden frame of the boat is preserved in a climate-controlled boathouse structure. The museum is open Sunday to Thursday 8:30am to 5pm, Friday from 8am to 1pm, and on Saturday from 9am to 5pm.

Tabgha

14km (9 miles) north of Tiberias

To reach Tabgha, where Jesus miraculously multiplied the loaves and fishes, proceed northward along the shoreline from Migdal, passing Minya, a 7th-century Arabian palace that is one of the most ancient and holy Muslim prayer sites. It's open daily from 8am to 4pm.

At Tabgha, you'll find the beautifully restored Benedictine monastery and the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes (tel. 04/672-1061). When the ancient church ruins, hidden for 1,300 years, were excavated, the mosaic basilica floor of a Byzantine-era church that once stood on this site was found. The floor is one of the most lyrical and skillfully made ever discovered in Israel. The section of the floor in front of the ancient altar is starkly unadorned, rather primitive, and interesting mainly for what it depicts: two fish and a humble basket filled with loaves of bread. In contrast, the main section of mosaic is a skillfully executed, colorful tapestry of all the birds that once thrived in this area: swans, cranes, ducks, wild geese, and storks. The mosaic artist has captured the liveliness, humor, and grace of these creatures with a style rarely seen in this art form. The Nilometer, used to measure the flood levels of the Nile and famous throughout the ancient world, is also represented, leading some to speculate that the talented mosaic designer might have been Egyptian.

Be sure to read the history of this church posted just inside the entrance, in the church's courtyard. The early Judeo-Christians of nearby Capernaum (Kefar Nahum) venerated a large rock, upon which Jesus is said to have placed the bread and fish when he fed the 5,000. The rock, a natural dolmen, is believed by historians to have been a sacred place since prehistoric times, and was used as the altar in a Byzantine church erected over the spot in about A.D. 350.

The church is open Monday to Saturday from 8:30am to 5pm and Sunday 10am to 5pm; modest dress is required. Admission is free, but donations are accepted. There's also a good bookstore and souvenir shop on the premises.

Just east of the Multiplication Church is the Heptapegon ("Seven Springs" in Greek), also called the Church of the Primacy of Saint Peter, or Mensa Christi. To reach it, you must leave the Multiplication Church, return to the highway, turn right, and climb the hill to a separate entrance. This Greek Orthodox church is open daily from 8:30am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm; modest dress is required, and admission is free.

It was here on the shores of Galilee that Jesus is believed to have appeared to his disciples after his crucifixion and resurrection. Peter and the others were in a boat on the lake, fishing, but with no luck. When Jesus appeared, he told them to cast their nets again. They did, and couldn't haul in the nets because they were so full of fish. As the disciples sat with their master having dinner, Jesus is said to have conferred the leadership of the movement on Peter, as first among the disciples. The theory of Peter's primacy, and the tradition of that primacy's being passed from one generation of disciples to the next, is the basis for the legitimacy of the Roman pontiff as leader of Christendom.

The black basalt church rests on the foundations of earlier churches. Within is a flat rock called Mensa Christi, or "Christ's Table," where Jesus dined that evening with his disciples. Outside the church, you can still see the stone steps said to be the place where Jesus stood when he appeared, calling out to the disciples; on the beach are seven large stones, which may once have supported a little fishing wharf. If it's not too hot, you can easily walk to nearby Capernaum (3km/2 miles) and even to the Mount of Beatitudes.

Mount of the Beatitudes

8km (5 miles) north of Ginossar; 3km (2 miles) north of Capernaum

Just beyond Tabgha, on a high hill, is the famous Mount of the Beatitudes, now the site of an Italian convent. Here Jesus preached the Sermon on the Mount -- the site, though beautiful in itself, bears a special feeling of spirituality. There are many good views of the Sea of Galilee and its surroundings, but the vista from this place is among the most magnificent. One odd fact about this church is the inscription on the sanctuary, which informs you that the entire project was built by Mussolini in 1937. The church is open daily from 8:30am to noon and 2:30 to 5pm. Admission is free, but the fee per car is NIS 5 ($1.25/60p). Take bus no. 459, 541, or 963 from Tiberias. Ask the driver to let you off at the closest stop, which is 1km (1/2 mile) from the church.

Capernaum (Kefar Nahum)

This site marks the site of Kfar Nahum (the village of Nahum), a lakeside town where Jesus preached and his disciples, Peter and Andrew, made their homes. During the lifetime of Jesus, in the 1st century A.D., Kfar Nahum was a prosperous fishing community, port, and way station on the main trade route from Israel's Mediterranean coast to Damascus. It even had its own Customs House and was probably the most cosmopolitan of the lakeside towns until the building of the Roman resort of Tiberias, in the mid-1st century. The town was abandoned around A.D. 700 and never reconstituted. Today, you'll find a modern Franciscan monastery, which was built on the abandoned site in 1894, as well as ancient excavations spanning 6 centuries. Among the most impressive are the ruins of a 3rd- or 4th-century synagogue built on the site of an even earlier synagogue -- perhaps one that Jesus would have prayed in. Nearby are several houses of the period and the excavated remains of a 5th-century octagonal church built over the ruins of the traditional site of Saint Peter's house, in which Jesus would have stayed. Byzantine architects frequently built domed octagonal structures over places of special veneration (the octagonal Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem, built by early Muslim rulers in A.D. 691, but designed by Byzantine architects, is an example of this type of structure). Other finds include an ancient olive press and a 2nd-century marble milestone on the Via Maris (Coastal Rd.), the Roman route that stretched from Egypt to Lebanon (an inland fork of the Via Maris passed through this district en route to Damascus). It was in Kfar Nahum that Jesus began to gather his disciples around him, saying, "Follow me, and I will make you fishers of men."

Capernaum's splendid 3rd- to 4th-century synagogue was built of imported white limestone rather than native black basalt. The ruins include tall columns, marble steps, shattered statuary, a doorway facing south to Jerusalem, and many ancient Jewish symbols: carved seven-branched menorahs, palm branches, and rams' horns. Again, this structure is not the actual synagogue in which Jesus taught, since it dates from several centuries after his time, but it may stand on the same site. It is interesting to speculate on what the proximity of Saint Peter's house to the synagogue might tell us about the position of his family in Capernaum's Jewish community. The excavations of basalt stone in the garden lead toward the sea, where you can still glimpse the remains of a small-boat basin with steps leading to the water. Admission is NIS 5 ($1.25/60p); the site is open daily from 8:30am to 4:15pm.

Korazim

Four kilometers (2 1/2 miles) north of the lake, on a rise of land, with sweeping views of the lake, are the ruins of Korazim (Chorazin), a flourishing Jewish town in Roman times. According to the New Testament, Korazim was one of the towns chastised by Jesus. For a thousand years the ruins of this village lay hidden under an ocean of impassable thistles until the land was cleared in the late 20th century. The centerpiece of this village is a large 4th- to 5th-century-A.D. synagogue made of local black basalt, heavily ornamented with carved grapevines, birds, animals, and images of people harvesting the bounty of the land. You can also visit lightly reconstructed streets, houses, and a ritual bath attached to the synagogue, which was apparently destroyed either by earthquake or during civil unrest in the 7th century. A ceremonial chair carved from basalt, which served as the seat of honor for the synagogue, is especially interesting. This is a hauntingly evocative site that gives the visitor a feeling for what a Jewish community in the Galilee was like 1,500 years ago. The national park office here (tel. 04/693-4982) is open from 5am to 4pm; in summer to 5pm. Admission to the site is NIS 18 ($4.50/[b]2.25) for adults and NIS 8 ($2/£1) for children.

At the Korazim-Almagor crossroad between Tiberias and Rosh Pinna is the beautiful guest farm and dude ranch, Vered HaGalil Guest Farm.

Luna Gal Water Amusement Park

Coming around the northern end of the lake, you reach a junction from which Hwy. 87 heads into the new capital of the Golan Heights, the town of Qasrin. Farther down the eastern side of the lake, we come to Luna Gal-Hof Golan (Golan Beach; tel. 04/673-1750), the largest water park in Israel. It offers a variety of activities including water-skiing, pedal boats, kayak tours of the Jordan River, sail boarding, water parachuting, and more. There is an entrance fee of NIS 100 ($25/£13) for adults and NIS 80 ($20/£10) for children. Many activities cost extra, but the price is worth it, especially for kids. Luna Gal is open April to October Saturday through Thursday from 9:30am to midnight and Friday 9:30am to 5pm. From Tiberias, you can take bus no. 22.

Kursi

17km (11 miles) from Tiberias; 7km (4 miles) north of Ein Gev

Kursi is on the eastern shore; according to the gospels, it is the "country of the Gergesenes" (or Gadarenes), where Jesus cast the demons out of a man who was possessed and into a herd of swine, which then plunged into the lake and drowned.

For many years, speculation existed about the exact location of Kursi (also called Gergasa) and about what kind of religious structure might have been built here in commemoration of the casting out of the demons. After the Six-Day War, a bulldozer clearing the way for a new road happened to uncover the ruins of a Byzantine church complex, complete with a monastery (perhaps the largest ever built in the Holy Land), dating from the 5th to the 7th century. The monastery apparently contained hostel facilities for the thousands of pilgrims who came to the Galilee during Byzantine times. Over the decades since 1967, a large basilica with an intricate mosaic floor has been uncovered, as well as a cave chapel that may have marked the place (according to the Gospel of Mark, a tomb) where Jesus encountered the possessed man. Most remarkable among the discoveries is the underground crypt where more than 30 skeletons were found, all of middle-aged men, except for one child. There is a place to buy votive candles and a snack counter. The national park at Kursi (tel. 04/673-1983) is open daily from 8am to 4pm (until 5pm in summer); admission is NIS 12 ($3/£1.50) for adults and NIS 6 ($1.50/75p) for children.

Ein Gev

12km (7 1/2 miles) north of Tzemach Junction; 7km (4 1/2 miles) south of Kursi

About two-thirds of the way south along the lake's eastern shore brings you to Kibbutz Ein Gev, one of the loveliest places in Israel. You can stop by and take a free minitrain tour of the kibbutz (ask at the office next to the Ein Gev restaurant). Nestled between the hills of Golan and the lakefront, Ein Gev was founded in 1937 by German, Austrian, and Czechoslovakian refugees. (It was former Jerusalem mayor Teddy Kollek's kibbutz.) These days Ein Gev has a 5,000-seat auditorium, which has presented some of the world's greatest musicians at its annual music festival. On the hillsides are tiers of vineyards, and elsewhere on the grounds are a banana plantation and date groves. Fishing is another big industry here; Ein Gev is home to the country's largest restaurant, serving Saint Peter's fish straight from the Sea of Galilee. The kibbutz also offers accommodations at Ein Gev Resort Village.

Not far from the auditorium, in a garden, is a bronze statue by the Israeli sculptress Hanna Orloff, depicting a woman holding a child aloft, in memory of a young mother-to-be from the kibbutz who was killed in the 1948 battle for Ein Gev. This settlement bore the brunt of heavy attacks in the 1948 war, and its position at the foot of the Golan Heights, below heavy Syrian military emplacements, made it a perennial target. From 1949 to 1967, Ein Gev kibbutz members depended on an endless maze of slit trenches throughout the grounds, as well as concrete underground shelters.

It's easy to get to Ein Gev from Tiberias by bus no. 22 or via ferry. Farther south along the lake is a campsite, at Kibbutz Ha-On, with its ostrich farm and moderately priced Holiday Village and Bed & Breakfast accommodations; continue south along the shoreline and you'll come to Ma'agan, with its Holiday Village. Ma'agan is very near the junction for the road to the hot-spring resort of Hammat Gader. (Ask at the Tiberias Tourist Information Office or at the Tzemach Junction for information on other campsites around the lake and in the vicinity.)

Hammat Gader

The hot springs of Hammat Gader (tel. 04/675-1039), east of the southern tip of the Sea of Galilee, are a favorite Israeli spa and vacation spot. Nestled in the valley of the Yarmuk River, this dramatic site has been inhabited for almost 4,500 years.

The springs can be reached by bus from Tiberias. Bus schedules vary according to season, so check with the bus station for a morning departure and afternoon returns. Hammat Gader is 22km (14 miles) southeast of Tiberias. If you're driving, it's about 8.5km (5 miles) east of the junction with Rte. 92 that skirts the eastern side of the lake. As you wind down the steep road into the Yarmuk Valley, you'll pass several sentry and guard posts. The steep hillside on the other side of the valley is Jordan; you are also very close to the Syrian border.

The Roman city here was first constructed in the 3rd century A.D., restored and beautified in the 7th century, and destroyed by an earthquake around 900. The ruins of the Roman spa city are extensive and significant, and several important parts (the baths, the theater) have been excavated and beautifully restored. The still-apparent elegance of the Oval Hall, the Hall of Fountains, and the Hall of Pillars in the Spring Area point to the magnificence of this rustic Roman resort in ancient times. Don't miss the wonderful lions on the mosaic synagogue floor (5th c. A.D.). The ruins are set up as a self-guiding tour (ask at the park office about guided tours of the park).

The spa was known as El-Hamma to the Arabs and Turks, and the site is dominated by the minaret of a mosque that has fallen into disuse and been disfigured by graffiti.

For present-day hot springs fans, there are modern swimming pools, hot pools, hot sulfur springs, and baths for medical therapy and beauty treatments; there is also an alligator farm in a jungle setting with elevated walkways. For the kids, the park has trampolines and water slides. You will also find showers, changing rooms, a bar, and a restaurant. Admission Sunday to Thursday costs NIS 75 ($19/£9.40); on Friday, Saturday, and holidays, it is NIS 80 ($20/£10) and NIS 45 ($11/£5.60) after 6pm. Bring your own towel and bathing suit. Sit in the far end of the warm-water pool and feel the mineral water crash down onto your back from the waterfall. Residents of the area as well as visitors come in droves (especially after work), often bringing picnics. The many clay oil lamps found here may indicate the ancient inhabitants of the area enjoyed night bathing after a long day of work.

You'll find Hammat Gader's pools open Sunday to Tuesday 7am to 4pm; Wednesday to Friday 7am to 9pm; and Saturday 7am to 9pm. Hours constantly subject to change. Antiquities and children's activities close at 4pm. As if the ruins, hot springs, and alligator farm were not enough, a good Thai restaurant, the Siam (tel. 04/665-9922), housed in a Thai-style building, has also been set up on the premises (if you dine at the restaurant, your admission to Hammat Gader is free). In 1993, there were rumors that alligators, either accidentally or as a result of a deliberate act of sabotage, had escaped into the Sea of Galilee; no sightings or hunting parties led to anything more concrete than the Loch Ness monster.

The Grand Old Man of the Lake

Ein Gev's patriarch fisherman, Mendl Nun, an expert on Lake Kinneret's nature, archaeology, and fishing traditions, is the founder of the Anchor Museum, a museum of the lake's nautical history, at Ein Gev. Those interested in the ethereal Sea of Galilee, both in modern and ancient times, should pick up his book, The Sea of Galilee and Its Fisherman in New Testament Times, which is especially informative for anyone who would like to understand the setting for the events in the gospels that occurred around the Kinneret. Nun's writing is filled with real feeling for the place he has made his home for more than half a century. This and his other books about the Sea of Galilee are available at Kibbutz Ein Gev's gift shop beside the Ein Gev Restaurant in Kibbutz Ein Gev.

Kibbutz Degania

Located at the very southern tip of the Sea of Galilee, Degania is the country's very first kibbutz, founded in 1909 by young Russian Jewish pioneers. Without any real experience in farming, this handful of self-made peasants left city jobs to fight malarial swamps and Bedouin and local marauders. Much of the philosophical basis of kibbutz life was first formulated in this Jordan Valley settlement by its leader, A. D. Gordon. Gordon believed that a return to the soil and the honesty of manual work were the necessary ingredients for creating a new spirit in people. Although never a member of the kibbutz, he farmed until his death at age 74. On Degania's grounds a natural history museum, Bet Gordon (tel. 04/675-0040), contains a library and exhibition of the area's archaeology, flora, and fauna.

Degania grew so quickly that its citizens soon branched out to other settlements. The father of Moshe Dayan, the famous commander (with the eye patch) of the Sinai Campaign, left Degania to help establish Nahalal, Israel's largest moshav (cooperative settlement). Eventually, some of the Degania members split with the original Degania over political and philosophical issues (especially about the nature of the Stalinist-era USSR). They broke away from Degania, establishing their own kibbutz right next door, and called it simply Degania B. The older Degania is now called Degania A.

Outside the entrance to Degania, there's a small tank -- a reminder of the battle the inhabitants of Degania waged against Syrian tanks in 1948 (the members fought them off with Molotov cocktails). Today, both Degania A and B are thriving.

Hof Zemach Water Amusement Park

Near Kibbutz Degania, there's another water amusement park called Hof Zemach (tel. 04/675-2440). The carnival atmosphere includes a beach, sunbathing areas, grassy picnic grounds, a buffet, and watersports equipment rentals. Like Luna Gal, Hof Zemach is open only in season; check with the tourist office in Tiberias for current information.

River Jordan Baptismal Spot

Kibbutz Kinneret, just west of Degania, has established a spot where Christian pilgrims can immerse themselves in the waters of Jordan in safety and tranquillity. The baptismal spot, called Yardenit (tel. 04/675-9111), is 180m (591 ft.) west of the lakeshore highway (follow the signs). The river seems to flow peacefully, but its currents can be dangerous, so no swimming is allowed. The area set aside for baptisms is sheltered and there are guide railings leading into the water. Snack and souvenir stands provide refreshment and sustenance (no charge for the baptismal dip). A special lift has been installed to enable visitors with disabilities to enter the water with a minimum amount of difficulty. It's open Saturday to Thursday 8am to 6pm and Friday 8am to 5pm; the last baptismal is 1 hour before closing.

Rosh Pina

This small town, 26km (16 miles) up the winding road from Tiberias to Safed, was founded by Jewish pioneers in 1882 as a cooperative farming settlement. The name "Rosh Pina" means "cornerstone," and indeed this settlement, the first new Jewish community to be founded in the Galilee in modern times, became the cornerstone for Jewish resettlement of the region. A group of restored original 19th-century cottages gives this sleepy community a bit of architectural charm, and in recent years Rosh Pina has blossomed with charming bed-and-breakfasts and restaurants. If you're staying in restaurant-impoverished Safed and have a car, you may want to head this way for a good meal. A number of spots in the community, such as Auberge Shulamit, offer fine vistas, and the town itself is a crossroad on the routes between Safed, Tiberias, the Hula Valley, and the extreme upper Galilee.