What's New

Scan the Seattle skyline, and it's easy to see from all the high-rise construction cranes that the city is booming. Glance out across the waters of Elliott Bay and you're as likely to see a massive cruise ship as a car ferry or freighter. Seattle is slowly growing from regional metropolis into the Pacific Rim powerhouse that it has long wanted to become. Of course, Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen is playing a big roll in these changes. Having already transformed Seattle Center with the Frank Gehry-designed Experience Music Project and the south end of downtown with Qwest Field and other adjacent developments, he is now busily transforming the long overlooked neighborhood between downtown and Lake Union. Highlighted below are some of the significant developments that have taken place in Seattle over the past year.

Accommodations

One of the first high-rises to open in Paul Allen's new South Lake Union neighborhood is home to luxury condominiums and the Pan Pacific Hotel, 2125 Terry Ave. (tel. 877/324-4856 or 206/264-8111; www.panpacific.com/seattle), a luxury hotel that feels unlike any other hotel in Seattle. The floor-to-ceiling walls of glass flood the guest rooms with light, and the courtyard entrance gives the hotel a feeling of being removed from the bustle of the city.

Down at the opposite end of town, you'll find the Silver Cloud Hotel-Stadium, 1046 First Ave. S. (tel. 800/497-1261 or 206/204-9800; www.silvercloud.com), which, if not nearly so upscale and luxurious, has rooms that are every bit as comfortable and contemporary. This hotel is also the best place to stay if you are in town to catch a Mariners or Seahawks game.

If you're having a hard time finding a vacant room for your Seattle vacation, try the Sheraton Seattle Hotel and Towers, 1400 Sixth Ave. (tel. 800/325-3535 or 206/621-9000; www.sheraton.com/seattle). Recently expanded, this hotel now has 1,258 rooms and is the biggest hotel in the city. Of course, with the Washington State Convention & Trade Center right next door, this hotel does a booming convention business.

Dining

I have added quite a few new restaurants this year, and probably the one most worthy of attention is Seattle celeb-chef Tom Douglas's Serious Pie, 316 Virginia St. (tel. 206/838-7388; www.tomdouglas.com). With this little hole-in-the-wall, Douglas has set his sights on making perfect wood-oven pizzas.

Downtown, be sure to check out Purple Café and Wine Bar, 1225 Fourth Ave. (tel. 206/829-2280; http://thepurplecafe.com), which is the most dramatically designed downtown restaurant and also has one of the most extensive and diverse menus of any downtown restaurant.

In the Ballard neighborhood in north Seattle, I discovered a wonderful little Italian restaurant. Volterra, 5411 Ballard Ave. (tel. 206/789-5100; www.volterrarestaurant.com), is set on one of the prettiest streets in Ballard and does not only dinner but also a great, inexpensive weekend brunch. Also, on this same street, you can pick up great gourmet to go at Dish D'Lish, 5136 Ballard Ave. NW (tel. 206/789-8121; www.kathycasey.com)

If you love sushi, check out I Love Sushi on Lake Union, 1001 Fairview Ave. N (tel. 206/625-9604; www.ilovesushi.com), which is on the shore of Lake Union and does not only great sushi but fun cocktails as well.

Seattle seems to be crazy for Vietnamese food, and when it comes to the traditional noodle soup called pho, many Seattleites swear by Capitol Hill's Pho Than Brothers, 516 Broadway E. (tel. 206/568-7218). In fact, so popular is this restaurant that it has numerous locales around the city.

Want to try your Vietnamese food in a chewy, crunchy slice of baguette? Head to Capitol Hill's Baguette Box, 1203 Pine St. (tel. 206/332-0220; baguettebox.com), and try the drunken chicken sandwich or the grilled lemongrass skirt-steak sandwich.

Sightseeing

If you have any lingering doubts that Seattle is rapidly becoming a world-class city, spend an afternoon at the Seattle Art Museum, 1300 First Ave. (tel. 206/654-3100; www.seattleartmuseum.org). Reopened in 2007 after a major expansion, the museum now has seemingly endless large galleries in which to display both its permanent collection and traveling exhibits.

Even before the art museum reopened, Seattle had a brand new art space worthy of a visit in the Olympic Sculpture Park, 2901 Western Ave. (tel. 206/654-3100; www.seattleartmuseum.org). With monumental sculptures by Alexander Calder, Richard Serra, and Claes Oldenburg, this terraced park overlooks both Elliott Bay and the Olympic Mountains. It's just a beautiful space and an amazing utilization of an old industrial site.

Jack Block Park, 2130 Harbor Ave. SW (tel. 206/728-3654), near West Seattle's Alki Beach, is a hidden gem that should be on any family itinerary of Seattle. For much of the year, you can get to the park by water taxi from the Seattle waterfront. There's a children's play area and a short paved path that leads to a viewing deck that looks out over both Elliott Bay and the always-busy port facility where giant freighters are loaded and unloaded by huge cranes. Definitely a must for little boys.

Nightlife

Elysian Brewing Company, my favorite Seattle brewpub, has opened in a third location. The newest pub, Elysian Fields, 542 First Ave. S. (tel. 206/382-4498), is adjacent to both Qwest Field and Safeco Field.

For superbly crafted cocktails with heritage, grab a seat at downtown's stylish Vessel, 1312 Fifth Ave. (tel. 206/652-5222; www.vesselseattle.com), which is located next door to the 5th Avenue Theatre.

In Belltown, you can drink amid even more cutting-edge surroundings at Qube Restaurant, 1901 Second Ave. (tel. 206/770-5888; www.quberestauirant.com).

For a much more laid-back place for a drink or two, search out The Sitting Room, 108 W. Roy St. tel. 206/285-2830; www.the-sitting-room.com), a relatively undiscovered little Euro-bar in the Lower Queen Anne neighborhood.

Side Trips

On San Juan Island, in the town of Friday Harbor, the Backdoor Kitchen, 400 A St. (tel. 360/378-9540; www.backdoorkitchen.com), long one of my favorite lunch spots on the island, has now become a full-fledged restaurant and bar and serves some of the most creative fare on the island.

Roche Harbor Resort has added more luxury suites, as well as the Afterglow Spa at Roche Harbor (tel. 360/378-9888; www.rocheharbor.com), while the Lavendera Day Spa, 440 Spring St. (tel. 800/349-0337 or 360/378-3637; www.lavenderadayspa.com), has moved in from the Pelindaba Lavender Farm and is now located right in Friday Harbor.

On Orcas Island, Turtleback Mountain Preserve (tel. 360/378-4402; www.co.san-juan.wa.us/land_bank/turtle_back.html), was saved from private development by a massive fundraising drive and is now open to the public. The preserve offers what I think is the single best hike in the Puget Sound region. Spectacular views of the San Juan archipelago and Orcas Island's idyllic Crow Valley are the payoff for an hour's strenuous uphill hiking.

If you want to do some sea kayaking along the shores of Lopez Island, try Cascadia Kayak Tours (tel. 360/468-3008; www.cascadiakayaktours.com).

If you are heading out to Sequim to visit the lavender fields or on an excursion to Olympic National Park, be sure to have a meal at the delightful Alder Wood Bistro, 139 W. Alder St. tel. 360/683-4321; www.alderwoodbistro.com), which was an instant hit with locals when it opened.

If you're headed to Mount Rainier National Park, be aware that Paradise Inn (tel. 360/569-2275; http://rainier.guestservices.com), the park's premier historic lodge, is scheduled to reopen for the 2008 summer season. The historic lodge has been closed for two years for a major reconstruction.