Orientation

City Layout

Although downtown Seattle is fairly compact and can be easily navigated on foot, finding your way by car can be frustrating. Traffic, especially during rush hour, can be a nightmare. Drawbridges, one-way streets, I-5 cutting right through downtown, and steep hills all add up to challenging and confusing driving conditions. Here are some guidelines to help you find your way around.

Main Arteries & Streets -- Three interstate highways serve Seattle. Seattle's main artery is I-5, which runs through the middle of the city. Take the James Street exit west if you're heading for the Pioneer Square area, take the Seneca Street exit for Pike Place Market, or take the Olive Way exit for Capitol Hill. I-405 is the city's north-south bypass and travels up the east shore of Lake Washington through Bellevue and Kirkland (Seattle's high-tech corridor). I-90 comes in from the east, crossing one of the city's two floating bridges, and ends at the south end of downtown.

Downtown is roughly defined as extending from the stadium district (just south of the Pioneer Square neighborhood) on the south to Denny Way on the north, and from Elliott Bay on the west to I-5 on the east. Within this area, most avenues are numbered, whereas streets have names. Exceptions to this rule are the first two roads parallel to the waterfront (Alaskan Way and Western Ave.) and avenues east of Ninth Avenue.

Many downtown streets and avenues are one-way. Spring, Pike, and Marion streets are all one-way eastbound, while Seneca, Pine, and Madison streets are all one-way westbound. Second and Fifth avenues are both one-way southbound, while Fourth and Sixth avenues are one-way northbound. First and Third avenues are both two-way streets.

To get from downtown to Capitol Hill, take Pike Street or Olive Way. Madison Street, Yesler Way, or South Jackson Street will get you over to Lake Washington on the east side of Seattle. If you're heading north across town, Westlake Avenue will take you to the Fremont neighborhood, while Eastlake Avenue will take you to the University District. These two roads diverge at the south end of Lake Union. To get to the arboretum from downtown, take Madison Street.

Finding an Address -- After you become familiar with the streets and neighborhoods of Seattle, there is really only one important thing to remember: Pay attention to the compass point of an address. Most downtown streets have no directional designation attached to them, but once you cross I-5 going east, most streets and avenues are designated "East." South of Yesler Way, which runs through Pioneer Square, streets are designated "South." West of Queen Anne Avenue, streets are designated "West." The University District is designated "NE" (Northeast), and the Ballard neighborhood "NW" (Northwest). So if you're looking for an address on First Avenue South, head south of Yesler Way.

Another helpful hint is that odd-numbered addresses are likely to be on the west and south sides of streets, whereas even-numbered addresses will be on the east and north. Also, in the downtown area, address numbers jump by 100 with each block as you move away from Yesler Way going north or south and as you go east from the waterfront.

Remembering Seattle's Streets -- Locals use an irreverent little mnemonic device for remembering the names of Seattle's downtown streets, and since most visitors spend much of their time downtown, this phrase could be useful to you as well. It goes like this: "Jesus Christ made Seattle under protest." This stands for all the downtown east-west streets between Yesler Way and Olive Way/Stewart Street -- Jefferson, James, Cherry, Columbia, Marion, Madison, Spring, Seneca, University, Union, Pike, Pine.

Street Maps -- If the streets of Seattle seem totally unfathomable to you, rest assured that even longtime residents sometimes have a hard time finding their way around. Don't be afraid to ask directions. You can obtain a free map of the city from Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau Citywide Concierge Center .

You can buy a decent map of Seattle at most convenience stores and gas stations. For a greater selection, stop in at Metsker Maps, 1511 First Ave. (tel. 800/727-4430 or 206/623-8747; www.metskers.com).

If you're a member of AAA, you can get free maps of Seattle and Washington State either at your local AAA office or at the Seattle branch in the University District at 4554 Ninth Ave. NE (tel. 206/633-4222; www.aaawa.com).

The Neighborhoods in Brief

The Waterfront The Seattle waterfront, which stretches along Alaskan Way from roughly Washington Street in the south to Broad Street and Myrtle Edwards Park in the north, is the most touristy neighborhood in Seattle. In addition to the many tacky gift shops, greasy fish-and-chips windows, and tour-boat docks, you'll also find the city's only waterfront hotel (The Edgewater), the Seattle Aquarium, and a few excellent seafood restaurants. The waterfront is also a residential neighborhood. At the north end of Alaskan Way are water-view condominiums.

Downtown This is Seattle's main business district and can roughly be defined as the area from Pioneer Square in the south to around Pike Place Market in the north, and from First Avenue to Eighth Avenue. It's characterized by steep streets, high-rise office buildings, luxury hotels, and a high density of retail shops (primarily national chains). This is also where you'll find the Seattle Art Museum and Benaroya Hall, which is home to the Seattle Symphony. Because hotels in this area are convenient to both Pioneer Square and Pike Place Market, this is a good neighborhood in which to stay. Unfortunately, the hotels here are the most expensive in the city.

First Hill Because it is home to several large hospitals, this hilly neighborhood just east of downtown and across I-5 is called "Pill Hill" by Seattleites. First Hill is home to the Frye Art Museum and a couple of good hotels.

Pioneer Square The Pioneer Square Historic District, known for its restored 1890s buildings, is centered on the corner of First Avenue and Yesler Way. The tree-lined streets and cobblestone plazas make this one of the prettiest downtown neighborhoods. Pioneer Square (which refers to the neighborhood, not a specific square) is full of antiques shops, art galleries, restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. Because of the number of bars in this neighborhood, late nights are not a good time to wander here -- plus, the number of street people in this area is off-putting to many visitors.

The Chinatown/International District Known to locals as the I.D., this is the most distinctive of Seattle's neighborhoods, and home to a large Asian population. Here you'll find the Wing Luke Asian Museum, Hing Hay Park (a small park with an ornate pagoda), Uwajimaya (an Asian supermarket), and many small shops and restaurants. The Chinatown/International District begins around Fifth Avenue South and South Jackson Street. This neighborhood is interesting for a stroll, but doesn't have a lot to do.

Belltown In the blocks north of Pike Place Market between Western and Fourth avenues, this area once held mostly warehouses, but over the past decade and a half it has become gentrified. Today Belltown is ground zero for upscale Seattle restaurants. Keeping the restaurants in business are the residents of the neighborhood's many high-rise condominiums. Belltown's numerous nightclubs and bars attract crowds of the young, the hip, and the stylish -- who, in turn, attract a lot of nighttime panhandlers.

Queen Anne Hill Queen Anne is just northwest of Seattle Center and offers great views of the city. This affluent neighborhood, one of the most prestigious in Seattle proper, is where you find some of Seattle's oldest homes. Today the neighborhood is divided into the Upper Queen Anne and Lower Queen Anne neighborhoods. Upper Queen Anne is very peaceful and abounds in moderately priced restaurants. Lower Queen Anne, adjacent to theaters and Marion Oliver McCaw Hall at Seattle Center, is something of a theater district and has a more urban character.

Capitol Hill To the northeast of downtown, centered along Broadway near Volunteer Park, Capitol Hill is Seattle's main gay neighborhood as well as a popular youth-culture shopping district. Broadway sidewalks are always crowded, and it is nearly impossible to find a parking space here. Although inexpensive restaurants abound, few are worth recommending. This is also Seattle's main hangout for runaways and street kids, many of whom are involved in the city's drug scene. Despite the youthful orientation, Capitol Hill is where you'll find many bed-and-breakfasts, housed in some of the neighborhood's impressive old homes and mansions.

Madison Park One of Seattle's more affluent neighborhoods, Madison Park fronts the western shore of Lake Washington, northeast of downtown. The University of Washington Arboretum, which includes the Japanese Gardens, is the centerpiece of the neighborhood. Several excellent restaurants cluster here at the end of East Madison Street.

The University District As the name implies, this neighborhood in the northeast section of the city surrounds the University of Washington. The U District, as it's known to locals, provides all the amenities of a college neighborhood: cheap ethnic restaurants, pubs, clubs, espresso bars, and music stores. Several good hotels here offer substantial savings over comparable downtown accommodations.

Wallingford This is another of Seattle's quiet, primarily residential neighborhoods with an interesting commercial/retail district. Located just west of the University District and adjacent to Lake Union, it's filled with small, inexpensive-but-good restaurants. You'll also find interesting little shops and an old school that has been renovated and is now home to boutiques and restaurants.

Fremont If you have time to visit only one neighborhood outside of downtown, make it Fremont. North of the Lake Washington Ship Canal between Wallingford and Ballard, Fremont is home to Seattle's best-loved piece of public art -- Waiting for the Interurban -- as well as the famous Fremont Troll sculpture. This is Seattle's wackiest neighborhood, filled with eclectic shops and ethnic restaurants. During the summer, there's a Sunday flea market, and outdoor movies are screened on Saturday nights.

Magnolia This affluent residential neighborhood lies to the west of Queen Anne Hill. Magnolia's few cafes, restaurants, and bars are frequented primarily by area residents, but it's also home to Palisade, one of Seattle's best waterfront restaurants. The west side of Magnolia borders sprawling Discovery Park, Seattle's largest green space.

Ballard In northwest Seattle, bordering the Lake Washington Ship Canal and Puget Sound, you'll find Ballard, a former Scandinavian community that retains visible remnants of its past. Now known for its busy nightlife, Ballard, one of Seattle's most enjoyable neighborhoods, is a great place to discover off-the-beaten-path gems. Art galleries and a few interesting boutiques and shops are set along the tree-shaded streets of the neighborhood's old commercial center. It's definitely worth a stroll here to see what's happening. The neighborhood's Nordic Heritage Museum often has quality art exhibits.

The Eastside Home to Bill Gates, Microsoft, countless high-tech spinoff companies, and seemingly endless suburbs, the Eastside lies across Lake Washington from Seattle proper and comprises such fast-growing cities as Kirkland, Bellevue, Redmond, and a few other smaller communities. As the presence of Bill Gates's mansion attests, there are some pretty wealthy neighborhoods here; but wealth doesn't necessarily equal respect, and the Eastside is still much derided by Seattle citizens, who perceive it as an uncultured bedroom community.

West Seattle West Seattle, across the wasteland of the port facility from downtown, is not just the site of the terminal for ferries to Vashon Island and the Kitsap Peninsula. It's also the site of Seattle's favorite beach, Alki, which is as close to a Southern California beach experience as you'll find in the Northwest. Here, too, is the waterfront restaurant with the best view of Seattle: Salty's on Alki Beach.

Bainbridge Island Seattle's most exurban bedroom community is only a 35-minute ferry ride away, though Bainbridge feels quite far from the inner-city asphalt to the east. Green, green, green is the best way to characterize this rural residential island. Downtown Bainbridge Island (formerly known as Winslow), the island's main commercial area, has the feel of an upscale San Francisco Bay Area community. When you hear about Seattle's quality of life, this is what people are talking about.