In Three Days

On your third day, head out of the city to see some of the wild country for which the Northwest is famous. The only problem is that there are so many great choices that it can be difficult to decide where to go on a day trip from Seattle. Personally, I prefer the mountains, so I would steer you southeast to Mount Rainier, that great big bulk of a dormant volcano that looms over Seattle like a sleeping giant. The mountain and all its glaciers, wildflower meadows, and old-growth forests are preserved as Mount Rainier National Park. For this excursion, you'll need to rent a car. It's roughly 90 miles to the national park, and you should expect to take at least 2 hours to cover this distance. I recommend circling the mountain in a clockwise direction beginning at the park's northeast entrance, which is along Wash. 410 southeast of Enumclaw.

1. Sunrise

This is the highest point in the park accessible by car, and the in-your-face view of Mount Rainier is unforgettable. Also in view is the Emmons Glacier, which is the largest glacier in the 48 contiguous states. Hiking trails of varying levels of difficulty radiate out from Sunrise, and every one of these trails has great views. Keep an eye out for mountain goats and elk. Bonus: Sunrise usually isn't as crowded as Paradise, on the other side of the mountain.

2. Chinook Pass

At Cayuse Pass, on the east side of the park, take a short side trip off the main round-the-mountain road by staying on Wash. 410, which will bring you to the lovely Chinook Pass. Here the tiny Tipsoo Lakes flank the highway and Naches Peak rises above the road. A 4.5-mile loop trail leads alongside the lake and around Naches Peak through forests and meadows. This is a good place to lose the crowds.

Head back the way you just came and turn south on Wash. 123 to Ohanapecosh.

3. Ohanapecosh

You won't find any views of the mountain here, but you will find a .75-mile trail to some of the oldest trees in the state. The Grove of the Patriarchs trail, which begins just west of Wash. 123 near the park's Stevens Canyon entrance, leads to a streamside grove of Western red cedars that are estimated to be more than 1,000 years old. One of these trees is the largest red cedar in the park.

From Ohanapecosh, drive west through the park on Stevens Canyon Road.

4. Reflection Lakes

Make sure you have plenty of film in your camera or space on the compact flash card of your digital camera; the view of Mount Rainier from these pretty little alpine lakes is hands-down the most photogenic view in the park. If there's no wind, the reflection of the mountain in the waters of these lakes provides the answer to how these bodies of water were named.

Continue west on Stevens Canyon Road.

5. Paradise

This place isn't called Paradise for nothing. Mountainside meadows burst into vibrant color each summer, usually starting in mid- to late July. Trails of different lengths meander through these wildflower meadows and lead to the edges of snowfields and viewpoints overlooking rumbling glaciers. Since you've probably already done quite a bit of hiking, you may want to head straight to the Nisqually Vista overlook, where you can gaze down on the Nisqually Glacier.

Take a Break

Copper Creek Inn -- Just after you leave the park via the Nisqually entrance and Wash. 706, keep an eye out for this rustic roadside diner. Sure you can get a simple meal, but the real reason to stop here is for a slice of blackberry pie. It's the best in the area. 35707 Wash. 706 E., Ashford. tel. 360/569-2326.