Architectural Highlights

Of course, Seattle's most famous architectural landmark is the Space Needle, which, when it was built for the 1962 World's Fair, was envisioned as the look of things to come. Now that the 21st century is upon us, the reality of 21st-century architecture is far stranger than was imagined. Frank Gehry's design for the building that now houses both the Experience Music Project and the Science Fiction Museum and Hall of Fame is one of the city's most bizarre buildings, but it faces stiff competition from the skewed glass-cube architecture of the Seattle Central Library.

Seeing the Light -- When the first settlers arrived in the Seattle area, their ship dropped them at Alki Point. Today this point of land jutting out into Puget Sound is still important to mariners as the site of the Alki Lighthouse, 3201 Alki Ave. SW (tel. 206/217-6203). The lighthouse is open for tours from June through August on Saturday and Sunday afternoons from 1:30 to 4pm.

Space Needle Alternatives

If you don't want to deal with the crowds at the Space Needle but still want an elevated downtown view, you have some alternatives. One is the big, black Columbia Center (tel. 206/386-5151), at the corner of Fifth Avenue and Columbia Street. At 943 feet, this is the tallest building in Seattle, with more stories (76, to be exact) than any other building west of the Mississippi. Up on the 73rd floor, you find an observation deck with views that dwarf those from the Space Needle. Admission is only $5 for adults and $3 for seniors and children 6 to 12. It's open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 4:30pm.

Not far from the Bank of America Tower is the Smith Tower, 506 Second Ave. (tel. 206/622-4004; www.smithtower.com). Opened in 1914, this was Seattle's first skyscraper and, for 50 years, the tallest building west of Chicago. Although the Smith Tower has only 42 stories, it still offers excellent views from its 35th-floor observation deck, which surrounds the ornate Chinese Room, a banquet hall with a carved ceiling. A lavish lobby and original manual elevators make this a fun and historic place to take in the Seattle skyline. April through October, the deck is open daily from 10am to sunset; November through March, it's open Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 3:30pm. However, the deck is sometimes closed for special events. Admission is $7.50 for adults, $6 for seniors and students, and $5 for children 6 to 12.

If you've ever seen a photo of the Space Needle framed by Mount Rainier and the high-rises of downtown Seattle, it was probably taken from Kerry Viewpoint, on Queen Anne Hill. If you want to take your own drop-dead gorgeous photo of the Seattle skyline from this elevated perspective, head north from Seattle Center on Queen Anne Avenue North, and turn left on West Highland Drive. When you reach the park, you'll immediately recognize the view.

Another great panorama is from the water tower in Volunteer Park, on Capitol Hill at East Prospect Street and 14th Avenue East.

On the Trail of Dale Chihuly

For many years now, Northwest glass artist Dale Chihuly, one of the founders of the Pilchuck School for art glass north of Seattle, has been garnering international attention for his fanciful, color-saturated contemporary art glass. From tabletop vessels to huge chandeliers and massive window installations, his creations in glass have a depth and richness of color treasured by collectors around the world. His sensuous forms include vases within bowls reminiscent of Technicolor birds' eggs in giant nests. Works in his ikebana series, based on the traditional Japanese flower-arranging technique, are riotous conglomerations of color that twist and turn like so many cut flowers waving in the wind.

No one place in Seattle features a large collection of his work, but numerous public displays exist around the city. Up on the third floor of the Washington State Convention and Trade Center, Pike Street and Eighth Avenue, is a case with some beautifully lighted pieces. The City Centre shopping arcade, 1420 Fifth Ave., has displays by numerous glass artists, including Chihuly. Don't miss the large wall installation that is beside this upscale shopping arcade's lounge. You'll also find two Chihuly chandeliers inside Benaroya Hall, Third Avenue between Union and University streets, which is the home of the Seattle Symphony.

Want to take home an original Chihuly as a souvenir of your visit to Seattle? Drop by the Foster/White Gallery, 220 Third Ave. S. (tel. 206/622-2833), in Pioneer Square, or at 1331 Fifth Ave. (tel. 206/583-0100), in downtown Seattle's main shopping district.

If you're a serious fan of Chihuly's work and art glass in general, then you have to take the time for an excursion to Tacoma, 32 miles south of Seattle. Here you'll find the Museum of Glass, 1801 Dock St. (tel. 866/468-7386), which is devoted to art glass in all its forms and is connected to downtown Tacoma via a pedestrian bridge designed by Chihuly. You can see more of Chihuly's work at the Tacoma Art Museum, 1701 Pacific Ave. (tel. 253/272-4258). Just up the street from here, at Tacoma's restored Union Station, 1717 Pacific Ave. (tel. 253/863-5173), which is now the federal courthouse, there is a fascinating large Chihuly installation in a massive arched window.