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For an overview of Sedona, take a tour on the Sedona Trolley, 276 N. Ariz. 89A (tel. 928/282-4211; www.sedonatrolley.com), which leaves several times daily on two separate tours. One tour visits the Tlaquepaque shopping plaza, the Chapel of the Holy Cross, and several art galleries, while the other goes out through west Sedona to Boynton Canyon and Enchantment Resort. Tours are $12 for adults ($22 for both tours) and $6 for children 12 and under ($11 for both tours).

The red-rock country surrounding Sedona is the city's greatest natural attraction, and there's no better way to explore it than by four-wheel-drive vehicle. Although you may end up feeling like every other tourist in town, you quite simply should not leave Sedona without going on a jeep tour. These tours will get you out onto rugged roads and 4*4 trails with spectacular views. The unchallenged leader in Sedona jeep tours is Pink Jeep Tours, 204 N. Ariz. 89A (tel. 800/873-3662 or 928/282-5000; www.pinkjeep.com), which has been heading deep into the Coconino National Forest since 1958. It offers tours ranging in length from 1 1/2 to 11 hours; however, the 2-hour Broken Arrow tour ($75 adults, $56 children 12 and under) is the most adventurous and is the tour I recommend. Pink Jeep Tours also offers tours to Grand Canyon National Park.

If a jeep just isn't manly enough for you, how about a Hummer? Better yet, how about a Hummer that runs on enviro-friendly bio-diesel (have your quiche and eat it, too)? Sedona Offroad Adventures, 273 N. Ariz. 89A, Ste. C (tel. 928/282-6656; www.sedonaoffroadadventures.com), will take you out in the red rocks in the ultimate off-road vehicle. One-hour tours run $39 to $49 ($29-$39 for children), and while there are 1 1/2- and 2-hour tours, the 2 1/2-hour Jeep Eater Tour for $94 ($74 for children) is the most fun.

How about a chance to play cowboy? A Day in the West, 252 N. Ariz. 89A (tel. 800/973-3662 or 928/282-4320; www.adayinthewest.com), has its own private ranch for some of its jeep tours and horseback rides. There are cowboy cookouts, too. Prices range from $45 to $169.

If you'd like to have a very knowledgeable local tour guide show you around places you're interested in seeing at your own pace, I recommend getting in touch with Steven "Benny" Benedict at Earth Tours (tel. 928/203-9132; www.earthtours.com). Benny likes to take clients to spots that even many locals don't know about. Half-day excursions run $150 per person, and full-day outings are $295 per person. These tours have a three-person minimum.

Just because it's too dark to see the red rocks doesn't mean there's nothing to see and do in Sedona at night. How about a tour of the heavens? Evening Sky Tours (tel. 928/203-0006; www.eveningskytours.com) takes advantage of the dark night skies over Sedona to lead people on astronomy tours of the stars and planets. Tours cost $60 for adults and $20 for children.

As spectacular as Sedona is from the ground, it is even more so from the air. Red Rock Helicopter Tours offers short flights to different parts of this colorful region. A 15-minute tour costs $70 per person. This same company also operates Sky Safari Air Tours, which does a variety of flights in small planes. A 20-minute air tour will run you $69 per person (two-person minimum), while a 45-minute tour will cost $109 per person (two-person minimum). Flights as far afield as the Grand Canyon and Canyon de Chelly can also be arranged. However, my favorite Sedona air tours are those offered by the affiliated Red Rock Biplane Tours, which operates modern Waco open-cockpit biplanes. With the wind in your hair, you'll feel as though you've entered the world of Snoopy and the Red Baron. Tours lasting 20 to 60 minutes are offered; a 20-minute tour costs $119 per person with a two-person minimum. All three of these companies can be reached at Sedona Air Tours (tel. 888/866-7433 or 928/204-5939; www.sedonaairtours.com).

If something a bit slower is more your speed, how about drifting over the sculpted red buttes of Sedona in a hot-air balloon? Northern Light Balloon Expeditions (tel. 800/230-6222 or 928/282-2274; www.northernlightballoon.com) charges $195 per person. Red Rock Balloon Adventures (tel. 800/258-3754; www.redrockballoons.com) also charges $195 per person, while the affiliated Sky High Balloon Adventures (tel. 800/551-7597; www.skyhighballoons.com), which floats over the Verde Valley, charges $180 per person.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.