Active Pursuits

Here I've described things to do out of Seward other than visiting the national park, which includes the fjords and Exit Glacier.

Sea Kayaking & Water Taxi

Sunny Cove Sea Kayaking (tel. 800/770-9119 for reservations, or 907/224-4426; www.sunnycove.com) has earned a good reputation for guided kayaking in Resurrection Bay and beyond. Their day trips suitable for beginners are offered as part of the Kenai Fjords Tours trips to its Fox Island lodge. For a more ambitious day trip, and for multiday trips, they venture into the fjords themselves. On a budget, you can take one of Sunny Cove's tours right from Seward. They launch from Lowell Point, following the shore toward Caines Head State Recreation Area, where you can see sea otters, seabirds, intertidal creatures, and the salmon in Tonsina Creek. Three-hour paddles are $59; 8-hour trips are $125. A trip to Fox Island is more expensive but comes with a fjords boat tour and salmon bake, so the cost of the kayaking comes out roughly the same.

Another highly regarded sea kayaking firm in Seward, Kayak Adventures Worldwide (tel. 907/224-3960; www.kayakak.com) offers a wide selection of day trips and expeditions, and offers packages involving other activities, such as glacier hiking. The company also rents kayaks and gear to experienced paddlers ($60 a day single, $75 double) and arranges water taxi drop-off for clients.

Miller's Landing, at Lowell Point, 3 miles south of town (tel. 866-541-5739 or 907/224-5739; www.millerslandingak.com) is the primary water-taxi operator in Seward, charging flat rates to take travelers to remote beaches and public cabins around the bay or to the national park -- great for sea kayakers or those who just want to get off on their own ($45 per person round trip to Caines Head, $275 to the park service cabin in Aialik Bay). The company rents skiffs, too ($80 for 4 hr.) and offers many other services.

Fishing

Seward is renowned for its saltwater silver salmon fishing. The silvers start showing up in the bay in mid-July and last through September. You can catch the fish from shore, from Lowell Point south of town, or even near the boat harbor, but your chances of success are far greater from a boat. I prefer small, six-passenger boats because you can get to know the skipper better and can learn more about fishing. If your party has the whole boat, you can control where it goes, perhaps adding whale-watching or sightseeing to the day. Larger boats add more comfort and stability in the waves. The going rate for a guided charter, with everything provided, is around $175 per person, or $245 to go for salmon and halibut on the same day. Andrew Mezirow, a marine biologist and maritime instructor, operates two boats, including a 12-passenger vessel and a six-passenger boat custom-built for fishing salmon in Resurrection Bay year-round. Besides day fishing, he takes guests on multiday fishing expeditions to extremely remote and beautiful places. His business is Crackerjack Sportfishing Charters (tel. 800/566-3192 or 907/224-2606; www.crackerjackcharters.com). The office is on the boardwalk at the top of the harbor ramps. There are many other fishing charter companies, mostly booked through central charter agencies, which make life simpler for visitors. The Fish House is the largest charter fishing agency in Seward, located at the Small Boat Harbor. The store also sells and rents ocean-fishing and spin-casting gear, and carries some fly-fishing supplies. For charters, reserve ahead at P.O. Box 1209, Seward, AK 99664 (tel. 800/257-7760 or 907/224-3674; www.thefishhouse.net). If you want a small boat, ask to be put on a "six pack," as vessels licensed for six or fewer passengers are known.

Hiking

There are several excellent hiking trails near Seward. You can get a complete list and directions at the Kenai Fjords National Park Visitor Center.

The Mount Marathon Trail is a tough hike right to the top of a 3,022-foot mountain in less than 4 miles. The route of the famous Mount Marathon footrace is the most strenuous choice, basically going straight up from the end of Jefferson Street; the hikers' route starts at the corner of 1st Avenue and Monroe Street. Either trail rises steeply to the top of the rocky pinnacle and the incredible views there. Allow all day, unless you're a racer; in that case, expect to do it in under 45 minutes.

The Caines Head State Recreation Area (www.alaskastateparks.org, click on "Individual Parks") has a 7-mile coastal trail south of town. Parts of the trail are accessible only at low tide, so it's best done either as an overnight or with someone picking you up or dropping you off in a boat beyond the beach portion -- the Miller's Landing water taxi offers this service for $35 per person one-way, $45 round-trip. The trail has some gorgeous views, rocky shores, and a fascinating destination at the end, a towering promontory with the concrete remains of Fort McGilvray, a World War II defensive emplacement. Take flashlights and you can poke around in the spooky, pitch dark underground corridors and rooms and imagine what each was used for (going in without lights would be foolhardy). We've rarely enjoyed a hike more. Three campsites are at Tonsina Point, about 2 miles in, and a state park public-use cabin is 2 miles farthe. At North Beach, 4 1/2 miles from the trail head, are two camping shelters, a ranger station, and the trails to the fort and South Beach. For an easy 2-mile hike to Fort McGilvray, start with a boat ride to North Beach. The main trail head is south of town on Lowell Point Road; pull off in the lot right after the sewage plant, then cross the road through the gate and follow the dirt road a bit until it becomes the actual trail. Stop at the Kenai Fjords National Park Visitor Center for tide conditions and advice.

Dog Mushing

When Mitch Seavey won the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race in 2004, many agreed it couldn't have happened to a nicer guy. He had made a lot of friends over the years from offering rides with his dogs. It's a family business, including the four boys (one is a Junior Iditarod champ), making use of their kennel on Old Exit Glacier Road off Herman Leirer Road. They offer summer rides in Seward and in winter in Sterling (near Soldotna). The summer ride uses a wheeled sled and a full, 12-dog team -- not the real thing (no snow), but you'll get a feeling for the dogs' power and intelligence. The 90-minute tour costs $59 for adults, $29 for children 11 and under. Husky puppies are available for cuddling, too. They call their company IdidaRide (tel. 800/478-3139 or 907/224-8607; www.ididaride.com).

Those willing to spend much more should consider mushing on snow at the height of summer by joining a helicopter tour to Godwin Glacier from the Seward Airport with Godwin Glacier Dog Sled Tours (tel. 888/989-8239 or 907-224-8239; www.alaskadogsled.com). A chopper lands at a camp of 100 dogs, where guests take a ride in a dog sled (the company also offers glacier hikes and overnight camping on the ice). They charge $430 for adults, $390 for children 12 and under.