Hotels

There are two types of hotels in China: Sino-foreign joint venture hotels, which are Chinese-owned properties with foreign management; and wholly Chinese-owned and -managed hotels. The former tend to be four- and five-star hotels) with familiar brand names, while the latter can range from five-star outfits to unrated hovels. Two of the biggest Chinese hotel management groups are the Jin Jiang chain and the Hengshan chain, both of which started with flagship hotels in Shanghai but have now extended their management to hotels around China.

The Chinese government ranks hotels on an almost meaningless star system whereby five-star accreditation is handed out by a central authority, while four-star and below ranks are determined by local authorities, none of whom are beyond a little (or a lot of) wining, dining, and palm-greasing. Five-star hotels have the complete facilities and services of any international luxury hotel, but even among its ranks, quality varies more than it should. Four-star hotels come close, often lacking only a few technical requirements (such as a swimming pool or other facility). Both levels are popular choices for Western travelers, providing English-speaking staff and clean, comfortable, even luxurious accommodations. Foreign-managed hotels have foreign staff at the top levels, though increasingly the Chinese are filling more of these positions even in joint-venture hotels. For Western travelers, your first choice should be foreign-managed hotels followed by the top Chinese-managed outfits. In general, four- and five-star Chinese-managed hotels do not match their foreign-managed counterparts in service or maintenance of facilities.

Three-star hotels are almost always Chinese-managed and provide less consistent services, fewer amenities, and more basic rooms, with almost no dedication to upkeep and maintenance. Few of them have English-speaking staff. In the bigger cities, three-star hotels are adequate for the budget traveler who merely needs a decent place to spend the night. In many parts of China, however, the three-star hotel is the best you'll find.

Due to the comparative lack of cleanliness (rather than safety issues), two- and one-star hotels, as well as unrated hotels and basic guesthouses catering to the rugged backpacking traveler, are generally best avoided, if possible. In many parts of China, these hotels are not even allowed to accept foreign travelers. Note: The zero- to three-star rating system we use in the following reviews does not correspond to the Chinese star-rating system.

In general, most hotel rooms, no matter how basic, have the following: a telephone whose line you can plug into your laptop computer; air-conditioning, either centrally or individually controlled, which often doubles as a heater; a television which usually receives only local Chinese channels, if that; and some sort of potable water, either in the form of hot water thermoses that are delivered to your room after you check in, or bottled water and an electric kettle. Except for the top hotels, most hotels do not have exclusively nonsmoking rooms. If they tell you they do, but put you in a room that reeks of every previous smoker, they mean the room is a nonsmoking room for the moment!

Note: It's quite common to receive telephone calls in the middle of the night (even in four- and five-star hotels, alas) inquiring if you would like anmo (literally "massage," but in this case, a not-so-subtle euphemism for sexual services). The caller usually hangs up if a woman answers, or occasionally if a man answers in a non-Chinese language. However, bolder callers have learned enough to say "Massagee?" when they hear a foreign male's voice. If you are not amused, and complaining to the hotel staff doesn't work (much of this calling actually comes from in-house), unplug your phone.

In general, payment for your room is made upfront; many, but not all, of the three-star-and-up hotels catering to foreigners accept foreign credit cards. Asked how long you're staying, always say 1 day (or you'll be asked to pay for however many days you plan on staying). You can then pay as you go. Keep all receipts, from proof of your room payment to any room key deposit you might have to make. The top hotels usually levy a service charge of 10% to 15%, though this may be waived or included in the final negotiated price at smaller hotels. Children under 12 usually stay free in their parent's room.

With practically every international hotel chain and brand name represented in Shanghai, and more on the way (watch out for The Peninsula Shanghai, The Conrad, W, and another Four Seasons, Ritz Carlton, and two more Shangri-Las among others in the next few years), as well as the establishment of some very nice boutique hotels in the last few years, the visitor is spoiled for choice when it comes to high-end accommodations. Even more appealing, and unique to Shanghai, these luxury accommodations come in a range of styles, from modern luxury towers to restored Art Deco hotels to elegant colonial mansions. Prices are high, but the fierce competition from the glut of hotels has led to significant discounts during parts of the year. However, these discounts disappear almost entirely during big conventions, meetings, and special citywide events, such as the annual Formula One Grand Prix race in the fall. Mid-range accommodations are plentiful in Shanghai, but few foreigners choose these mostly three-star hotels when big discounts are available from the top hotels. Shanghai's budget hotels, few and far between, charge more than elsewhere in China, with the exception, perhaps, of Hong Kong and Beijing.

Because Shanghai is more of a financial, commercial, and industrial city than a tourism-driven one, hoteliers like to claim that they have no low season. In reality, you can get the biggest discounts between December and February, while rates are highest May through October.

Saving on Your Hotel Room

The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. Shanghai frequently hosts international conventions and large special events such as the Formula One Grand Prix, so the top hotels will charge rack rates during these occasions. During all other times, however, almost no one pays more than 90%. On average, you can usually expect a discount of 20% to 40%, and occasionally even up to 60% to 70% during the low season. To lower the cost of your room:

• Do not book ahead. As a general rule, you can get the best rates in China by simply showing up at a hotel and bargaining, assuming, of course, that there is room. For much of the year, most Chinese hotels are never full and your chances of getting a lower rate are much better on the spot than if you booked months in advance (perhaps paying double what you might in person). In addition, there is no guarantee that the booking you make will be honored, especially at local Chinese hotels. That said, most travelers to China (especially first-timers) who are not familiar with the language tend to find the prospect of negotiating on the spot daunting, not to mention highly inconvenient if you have to drag your luggage around until you find a suitable hotel. Those who want to get the best deal but also be assured of a place to stay can book a hotel for the first night, and then bargain in person once you've reached your destination. To bargain in person, it's helpful to keep in mind the general discounting structure mentioned above, as well as the discounted rates offered by various websites .
• Book online. If you have to stay at a specific joint-venture hotel during a particularly busy time, the best rates are usually offered on the hotel's website. Some of them also offer Internet-only discounts. Beware that these rates fluctuate constantly according to inventory. Unless there's a major event going on, the farther in advance you book, the smaller the discount you'll likely receive. Hotel prices quoted by services like Travelocity and Expedia can occasionally be quite competitive, especially closer to the time, but such rates can usually be matched by the hotels themselves. Several top international hotels such as the Marriott chain also have a "look no further" policy whereby they will match the lowest rates offered on any non-hotel-affiliated websites.
• Dial a central booking number: With the better hotels, you can sometimes get better rates with their toll-free central booking number than by calling the hotel directly.
• Do not book through Chinese hotel agencies or websites specializing in Chinese hotels. As a general rule, do not book with any online Chinese travel agencies and hotel-booking sites, as many of them are not licensed and you have no guarantee of getting a room or your money back. Whatever prices these sites quote you, you can obtain the same discount if you contact the hotels directly and may even beat that discount as you won't have to pay the agency's markup (usually 10%). That said, there's no harm in consulting hugely popular Chinese travel websites such as C-Trip (www.english.ctrip.com), if only to get a sense of your beginning price for negotiation.

Look Before You Buy -- When bargaining for a room at a hotel, always ask to see the room first to avoid any rude surprises after you've put your money down. This is standard practice at all Chinese hotels, and any receptionist who tells you otherwise is merely being lazy. Most of the top hotels will be more reluctant to show their rooms, but politely insist if it's important enough to you.

How to Choose the Location That's Right for You

No district has a complete lock on convenience for the traveler because the main tourist sites are scattered around the sprawling city, and shuttling by taxi and Metro is cheap and efficient. In general, hotels in Huangpu, Luwan, and Jing An districts have the most to see in their immediate neighborhoods.

For the average visitor on a short stay, the downtown district of Huangpu, which encompasses the city center, the Bund, and the eastern half of Nanjing Lu, and which has a number of top hotels like the Westin, JW Marriott, and a slew of hotels along or just off the Nanjing Lu Pedestrian Mall, offers the convenience of being able to walk to central sites such as the Bund, People's Square, Shanghai Museum, and Shanghai Grand Theatre. However, the streets here tend to be smaller and considerably more congested, and taxis often have a harder time getting in and out of the city. Also, this downtown area tends to shut down by 10pm.

Those looking for a more exciting nightlife would do well to be based in the Luwan District just southwest of the Bund, or the northeastern part of the Xuhui District just to the west of Luwan. This former French Concession area is one of the most pleasant areas to stay, whether as a tourist or resident. There is a good sprinkling of international-caliber hotels here, but even more attractive are the wide, tree-lined streets, hundreds of colonial mansions and Art Deco apartments hidden inside narrow lanes ripe for exploring, excellent restaurants in colonial settings, and colorful nightlife around Xin Tiandi and Hengshan Lu. Some of the best shopping in town is also found here along Huaihai Lu and Maoming Lu.

North of Luwan and west of Huangpu District, Jing An District (Northwest Shanghai) has its share of colonial mansions (more of the British than of the French variety), some fine restaurants, and many top hotels including the Four Seasons, the Portman Ritz-Carlton, and the Hilton.

To the west, the sprawling western district of Changning and the Hongqiao Development Zone is primarily a foreign investment and residential area, most easily accessible by taxi, as there is no subway service out here yet. A handful of top international hotels based here, such as the Regent, Sheraton, and Marriott, cater mostly to business travelers, but there are some excellent restaurants in the district worth checking out.

To the east of city center, just across the Huangpu River, the Pudong New Area has less to offer sightseers, as it's still primarily a business district. With several of Shanghai's best hotels, and subway link to downtown (Metro Lines 2 and 4), however, it can now serve as a base for tourists as well.

The Very Expensive category lists hotels with rack rates over $350 (£175) per night; the Expensive category lists hotels with rack rates of $200 to $350 (£100-£175) per night; the Moderate category, rack rates of $100 to $200 (£50-£105) per night; and the Inexpensive category, rack rates of under $100 (£50). Each listing also includes the average discount you can expect at that establishment.

Chinese Business Motels

It may sound a bit dodgy, but for many Chinese business travelers to Shanghai, the no-frills business chain motels (such as the Jinjiang Inn, Super Motel, and Green Tree Inn chains) that have sprouted up around town have become a popular lodging option. Usually housed in dull, unremarkable buildings, these motels offer basic but relatively new and clean rooms (some even with very modern decor) with air-conditioning, hot water, television, telephone, and even broadband Internet for the business or professional traveler who would prefer to stay away from the backpacking hostel scene. There is usually a restaurant on the premises that serves jia chang cai (homestyle Chinese cooking), as well as a business center that can handle airplane and train bookings. Not much English is spoken at these places, so it may be more suitable for foreigners who already have some grasp of Chinese. Still, if you're bemoaning the lack of decent but affordable lodgings in town, here are three of the better-located choices. Jinjiang Star (Jinjiang Zhixing), located downtown in Huangpu District at Fujian Nan Lu (tel. 021/6326-0505; www.jj-inn.com), has basic in-suite standards for ¥239 ($34/£17); Green Tree Inn (Gelin Haotai) at Yan'an Zhong Lu just west of Fumin Lu (tel. 021/3617-4888; www.998.com) has standards starting at ¥269 ($38/£19); while Super Motel 168 (Motai Yan'an Xi Lu Dian), located in western Shanghai at Yan'an Xi Lu 1119 (tel. 021/5117-7777; www.motel168.com), across from the Regent Shanghai Hotel, has standards for ¥258 ($37/£19).

Airport Hotels

There are plenty of hotels with free shuttle service near Hongqiao Airport. The closest five-star hotel is the Marriott Hotel Hongqiao, which is still about 6.4km (4 miles) to the east. The Australian-managed 205-unit Argyle International Airport Hotel Hongqiao (Hua Gang Ya Ge Jiu Dian, Kong Gang Yi Lu 458; tel. 021/6268-7788; fax 021/6268-5671) is the nearest major hotel within a 5-minute walk from the airport. Modern efficient standards start at around ¥ 800 ($114/£57).

There are several hotels serving Pudong Airport. The best of the lot, Ramada Pudong Airport Shanghai Hotel (Shanghai Jichang Huameida Dajiudian, Qihang Lu 1100; tel. 021/3849-4949; fax 021/6885-2889; www.ramadaairportpd.com), is a 2- to 3-minute free shuttle ride or a 10-minute walk from the airport. The hotel has 370 units. Rooms (¥780-¥1,080/$111-$154/£56-£77 standard) are clean and comfortable with the usual amenities, including safe and in-room movies. Both Western and Chinese dining are available. If you don't mind basic accommodations, the closest hotel is the gigantic 713-unit Motel 168, also known as Shanghai Dazhong Merrilyn Air Terminal Hotel (Mote 168 Shanghai Pudong Jichang Konggang Binguan, Yinbin Dadao 6001; tel. 021/5138-8888; fax 021/6885-2526; www.kgbg.96822.com). It's located right on top of the Maglev station, and is just a few minutes' walk from both airport terminals one and two. A hotel catering mostly to Chinese business travelers, it has clean rooms with all the basic amenities, including free broadband connection, all for prices starting around ¥358 ($51/£26).

There are also a few basic hotel rooms (Jishi Binguan, tel. 021/6834-6480) with bed and shower inside Pudong Airport's Terminal One, on the Domestic Arrivals floor opposite Door 7. Hourly rates are ¥60 ($8.50/£4.25) for up to four hours, and a flat ¥360 ($51/£26) for 5-24 hours.