Nightlife

In the first half of the 20th century, Shanghai was the most notorious city in Asia, with a nightlife that rivaled that of Paris. Dubbed the "Whore of Asia," old Shanghai presented countless opportunities for debauchery in its gambling dens, opium joints, rowdy nightclubs, and glamorous theatres. After the communists came to power in 1949, Shanghai was cleaned up overnight; drugs and prostitution were ended by decree, and entertainment was reduced to a few politically acceptable plays and dances. Well into the 1990s, visitors retired to their hotels after dark unless they were part of a group tour going to see the Shanghai acrobats. In the last few years, however, the possibilities for an evening on the town have multiplied exponentially, and while Shanghai is still not in the same league as Hong Kong or Paris quite yet, it is fast becoming again a city that never sleeps.

Culture mavens can now find in Shanghai large-scale performances of acrobatics, musicals, opera, dance, theatre, and classical and contemporary music. New state-of-the-art theatres and auditoriums have attracted in recent years the likes of Yo-Yo Ma, Luciano Pavarotti, Diana Krall, the Kirov Ballet, and touring companies of Les Miserables and Cats, among others. (Admittedly, large-scale pop and rock concerts are still few and far between, and when they do occur, they're usually of a more benign Mando-pop or Canto-pop variety -- though the Rolling Stones did manage to roll into town in 2006.)

Nightclubs and bars are also booming, with joints opening and closing faster than night can turn into day. Barflies now have a choice of everything from glamorous Art Deco lounges to the seediest watering hole; live rock and jazz can be heard into the wee hours (although 2am is the official closing hour); and the dance club scene now employs DJs, foreign and local, to keep the younger set raving. With a return to the rollicking times has come the return of drugs and sexual exploitation, a phenomenon that periodically receives some government attention, but largely continues unchecked. Having converted some of its newly won wealth into so many venues for culture and entertainment, Shanghai, it seems, is not about to go gentle into that good night.

Dance Clubs & Discos

Shanghai has some of the most sophisticated and elaborate dance clubs and discos in China. The bar scene is lively, too, but clubs and discos are for those who want to party on the dance floor as well as at the bar -- or at least for those who want to observe Shanghai nightlife at a pitch it hasn't reached since the 1930s. Shanghai's dance club scene relies heavily on foreign DJs, whether superstars brought in on a short engagement or total unknowns, though most locals don't know the difference in any case. Here's a list of the top venues, which like all trends are subject to overnight revisions.

The Lounge & Bar Scene

The big hotels often have elegant lounges on their top floors and some of Shanghai's best bars in their lobbies. Independent spots outside the hotels run the gamut from upscale to down-and-dirty, but those listed here are frequented by plenty of English-speaking foreigners (residents and tourists alike) in addition to hip, well-to-do Shanghainese. At press time, Tongren Lu was again the hippest and hottest bar street, with Hengshan Lu staying competitive, Maoming Lu having gone somewhat to seed but still in the mix, and Julu Lu somewhat abandoned save for a couple of dives. Expect drink prices, especially for imports, to be the same as, if not more than, you'd pay in the bars of a large city in the West. Tipping is not necessary, although it does make the bartenders happy.

Gay-friendly nightspots (subject to change, as the scene shifts but never disappears) include Eddy's, Huaihai Zhong Lu 1877, by Tianping Lu (tel. 021/6282-0521; daily 8pm-2am, 'til 3am Fri-Sun); Home, Gaolan Lu 18, west of Sinan Lu (tel. 021/5383-2208; Sun, Wed-Thurs 9pm-2am, Fri-Sat 8:30pm-4am); and the recently refurbished Vogue in Kevin's, Changle Lu 946, no. 4, at Wulumuqi Bei Lu (tel. 021/6248-8985; daily 8pm-2am).

Heavenly Bars

Shanghai's trendiest upscale pedestrian mall, Xintiandi (New Heaven and Earth), located just a short stroll south of Huangpi Nan Lu Metro station downtown, is famous for its upscale restaurants and international shops. But this impressive development comes truly alive only after dark when Shanghai's hip and wealthy spill out of its pretty bars and lounges. For now, the top nightspots here include:

ARK Live House -- A lively rock, jazz, and pop music venue with balcony seating, bar, restaurant, and cover for special events. North Block, House 15. tel. 021/6326-8008. Daily 5:30pm-1am.

Dr Bar -- Quietest place in Xintiandi for a chat and drink over candlelight. North Block, House 15. tel. 021/6311-0358. Daily 5pm-1am.

KABB -- This American bar and cafe with candlelight in the evenings is the place for laid-back music and musings. North Block, House 5. tel. 021/3307-0798. Daily 7pm-2am.

Le Club at La Maison -- A large dance floor and creative DJs attract a mostly local crowd. North Block, House 23. tel. 021/6326-0855. Daily 6:30pm-2am.

Paulaner Brauhaus -- This is the second branch of the popular and festive Bavarian bierhaus with home-brewed beer, hearty food, and hoppin' live band. North Block, House 19-20. tel. 021/6320-3935. Daily 11am- 2am.

Soho Pub -- A friendly amalgam of East-West decor, Hong Kong and Japanese tourists, and American and British food, drink, and prices. North Block, House 3, Unit 5. tel. 021/3307-1000. Daily 6pm-2am.

Star East -- Martial arts film star Jackie Chan is behind this flashy but informal cafe and bar with cinematic touches. North Block, House 17. tel. 021/6311-4991. Daily 11:30am- 2am.

TMSK -- Here's a bar made entirely from colored glass, owned by a Taiwanese actress and glass entrepreneur. Even the wine and martini glasses are works of glass art. North Block, House 11. tel. 021/6326-2223. Daily 1:30pm-midnight (2am Fri-Sat).

Cinema

Old Shanghai was the Hollywood of China. Many of its films were produced at the Shanghai Film Studios (located in Xujiahui on Caoxi Bei Lu across from the Xujiahui Cathedral) during the 1930s and 1940s. A two-bit actress with the stage name Lan Ping was among thousands who never achieved a starring role then, but she had her revenge later, when she met and married the young revolutionary who would become Chairman Mao. Known as Jiang Qing after 1949 (and later punished as the leader of the Gang of Four), she helped dictate the nature of communist cinema, drama, and other arts during the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. She was a star on the political stage for decades, but her real dream remained Hollywood.

Today, Shanghai is no longer the center of Chinese filmmaking although the Shanghai Film Studio continues to churn out some movie and television projects and the occasional joint-venture film with foreign filmmakers. At the same time, China limits the release of new Hollywood films to just 20 a year. In the past, most of these movies were dubbed in Chinese, but recently, some have been shown in Shanghai in their original language with Chinese subtitles. In the last two decades, Chinese directors have made some of the best films in the world, but some of these still can't be officially shown in China. Of course, the pirated versions of these politically sensitive films and of hundreds of Hollywood movies are usually circulating on Shanghai streets within hours of (and even sometimes before) the film's world premiere, wherever it might be. Given this sad state of cinematic affairs in Shanghai, there isn't much here for the non-Chinese-speaking visitors hungering for a night at the pictures. The only exception is when the Shanghai International Film Festival comes to town every June. Originated in 1993, when Oliver Stone chaired the jury, the festival attracts over 250,000 viewers to the screenings.

In the long interval between festivals, cinephiles can also get their fix at regular screenings sponsored by the Canadian Consulate (tel. 021/6279-8400), German Consulate (tel. 021/6391-2068, ext. 602), and Cine-Club de l'Alliance Francaise (tel. 021/6357-5388). The following are the best venues for flicks in Shanghai, which still has a long road to travel to regain its reputation as China's Hollywood. Tickets range from ¥30 to ¥120 ($3.80-$15) depending on the theater and the movie shown. For up-to-date listings, consult the English-language monthlies, such as that's Shanghai (www.thatssh.com).