Local Favorites

Three on the Bund (Wai Tan San Hao)

One of the splashiest and most luxurious developments to hit Shanghai, Three on the Bund is a "lifestyle destination" that has brought some world-class swank to the Bund. Built in 1922, this former Union Insurance Company Building now houses an art gallery, exclusive fashion outlets (including a Giorgio Armani store), and a luxurious Evian spa, but it's the fine-dining restaurants, all offering stunning vistas of the Bund and Pudong, that draw the crowds. For even more exclusive and intimate dining, the domed Cupola atop the building offers private dining for two, service by a private butler, and a menu from any of the following outlets. Note: Reservations required at Jean Georges, Laris, Whampoa Club, and the Cupola; reservations recommended at New Heights.

Jean Georges (fourth floor; tel. 021/6321-7733; daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 6-11pm). From amuse-bouche to dessert, it's the finest contemporary and light French fare from world-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. You'll be singing the Marseillaise after the foie gras brûlee with dried cherries and candied pistachios. There are over 5,000 bottles of wine to choose from, and a 30-seater wine cellar private dining room, all cloaked in dark blue and deep wine hues. Expect a dinner for two to hover immodestly around ¥2,000 ($250).

Whampoa Club (fifth floor; tel. 021/6321-3737; daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30-11pm). Putting a creative spin on classics learned from a passel of old-time Shanghai master chefs, Chef Jereme Leung focuses on bringing out the flavors of classic Shanghai dishes. Indulge in the tasting menu, which was delicious when I was there, and don't miss the tea-smoked eggs with caviar. A professional tea sommelier can help with selecting from over 50 teas from all over China.

Laris (sixth floor; tel. 021/6321-9922; daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 6-10:30pm). In a light breezy setting, larger-than-life Australian chef David Laris creates wonderful "New World" cuisine inspired by his previous culinary stints in Hong Kong, Vietnam, Macau, and London (as executive chef of Mezzo). Seafood gets top billing here (scallops on parsnip mash, and cod fillet with mono miso are signature dishes), with a crustacean-stocked seafood bar. A special Chocolate Room (which churns out the Laris signature chocolate) gets raves from guests. Save room for the Pandan Leaf Panna Cotta.

New Heights (seventh floor; tel. 021/6321-0909; daily 10am-2am) is the option for casual, more affordable bistro-type fare, with rooftop views of the Bund and Pudong rivaling that of M on the Bund next door. There's also free wireless here for those with their own laptops. Dinner for two should be in the ¥400 ($50) range. In the back of New Heights is a music lounge, Third Degree (daily 7pm-2am), which serves up live music with its cocktails.

Three on the Bund is located at Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu 3 (entrance on side street at Guangdong Lu 23; tel. 021/6323-3355; www.threeonthebund.com). Take the metro to Henan Zhong Lu.

Coffee, Tea & Something Else

The number of Western-style coffee bars that have sprouted in Shanghai in the last few years can almost make you forget that the Chinese have traditionally been tea drinkers. You can credit (or blame) Starbucks (which at last count had 46 outlets in Shanghai) for the java jolt, but if you are in need of a caffeine fix, consider branching out and spreading the wealth a little. The following is a list of unusual local teahouses and cafes that offer much more than your average cup of overpriced joe:

Old China Hand Reading Room (Shaoxing Lu 27, by Shanxi Nan Lu, Xuhui; tel. 021/6473-2526; daily 10am-midnight). The most charming coffee house in town, it has Qing Dynasty furniture, old manual typewriters, and beautiful photographs taken by owner and photographer Deke Erh. Sip your tea, coffee, or fruit juice while browsing through hundreds of old and new books and magazines.

Old Film Cafe (Duolun Lu 123, near Sichuan Bei Lu, Hongkou; tel. 021/5696-4763; daily 10am-1am). A bit out of the way up by the Duolun Lu Culture Street, but here is a rare opportunity for film lovers to see some Chinese and Russian films dating back to the 1920s. Order a cuppa, select a flick, and settle in for some culture with your caffeine.

Wagas (Huaihai Zhong Lu 300, Hong Kong New World, B107, Luwan; tel. 021/6335-3739; daily 9:30am-9pm). Who needs Starbucks when you can have illy coffee? Wagas serves it straight up, with lounge chairs, a mellow soundtrack, gourmet panini, and a lot of healthy menu items like smoothies. There's another branch at Nanjing Xi Lu 1168, CITIC Square, LG12A (tel. 021/5292-5228).