Local Favorites

Three on the Bund (Wai Tan San Hao)

One of the splashiest and most luxurious developments to hit Shanghai, Three on the Bund is a "lifestyle destination" that has brought some world-class swank to the Bund. Built in 1922, this former Union Insurance Company Building now houses an art gallery, exclusive fashion outlets (including a Giorgio Armani store), and a luxurious Evian spa, but it's the fine-dining restaurants, all offering stunning vistas of the Bund and Pudong, that draw the crowds. For even more exclusive and intimate dining, the domed Cupola atop the building offers private dining for two, service by a private butler, and a menu from any of the following outlets. Note: Reservations required at Jean Georges, Laris, Whampoa Club, and the Cupola; reservations recommended at New Heights.

Jean Georges (fourth floor; tel. 021/6321-7733; daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 6-11pm). From amuse-bouche to dessert, it's the finest contemporary and light French fare from world-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. You'll be singing the Marseillaise after the foie gras brûlee with dried cherries and candied pistachios. There are more than 5,000 bottles of wine to choose from, and a 30-seater wine cellar private dining room, all cloaked in dark blue and deep wine hues. Expect a dinner for two to hover immodestly around ¥2,000 ($286/£143).

Whampoa Club (fifth floor; tel. 021/6321-3737; daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30-11pm). Putting a creative spin on classics learned from a passel of old-time Shanghai master chefs, Chef Jereme Leung focuses on bringing out the flavors of classic Shanghai dishes. Indulge in the tasting menu, which was delicious when I was there, and don't miss the tea-smoked eggs with caviar. A professional tea sommelier can help with selecting from more than 50 teas from all over China.

Laris (sixth floor; tel. 021/6321-9922; daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 6-10:30pm). In a light breezy setting, larger-than-life Australian chef David Laris creates wonderful "New World" cuisine inspired by his previous culinary stints in Hong Kong, Vietnam, Macau, and London (as executive chef of Mezzo). Seafood gets top billing here (scallops on parsnip mash, and cod fillet with mono miso are signature dishes), with a crustacean-stocked seafood bar. A special Chocolate Room (which churns out the Laris signature chocolate) gets raves from guests. Save room for the Pandan Leaf Panna Cotta.

New Heights (seventh floor; tel. 021/6321-0909; daily 10am-2am) is the option for casual, more affordable bistro-type fare, with rooftop views of the Bund and Pudong rivaling that of M on the Bund next door. There's also free wireless here for those with their own laptops. Dinner for two should be in the ¥400 ($57/£29) range. In the back of New Heights is a music lounge, Third Degree (daily 7pm-2am), which serves up live music with its cocktails.

Three on the Bund is located at Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu 3 (entrance on side street at Guangdong Lu 23; tel. 021/6323-3355; www.threeonthebund.com). Take the metro to Nanjing Dong Lu.

Shanghai's Favorite Dumpling

Xiaolong bao, literally "little steamer buns," are popular in many parts of China, but nowhere more so than in the Shanghai region. The characteristic that distinguishes this little dumpling from all others is the hot broth inside that will trickle into your mouth, or squirt onto your neighbor's lap, depending on how you handle it. Xiaolong bao is made by wrapping ground pork and a gelatinous soup in as thin a dough wrapper as possible. Sometimes, powdered crabmeat is added (xiefen xiaolong). After steaming, the gelatin has melted and the pork is bathed in a delicious hot oil, all inside the wrapper. Tip: Never bite directly into a xiaolong bao right out of the steamer, as the scalding broth can cause some serious tongue damage! Expert xiaolong bao eaters usually hold the top of the dumpling with their chopsticks, with a spoon underneath. Nibble at the skin on top and let the broth trickle onto the spoon, or wait a few seconds for the broth to cool, then slurp the whole thing into your mouth. If desired, you can add some vinegar and ginger.

To be expected, the question of which place serves the best xiaolong bao in town is a contentious one. Nanxiang Mantou Dian in Old Town may have the imprimatur of tradition, history, and fame, but for modern connoisseurs who prefer their dumpling wrapper skins paper-thin and still able to seal in the juices, there's a healthy competition going between the upstart Taiwanese chain Ding Tai Feng and the Singapore-originated Crystal Jade Restaurant. For our wrappers, we like Crystal Jade by a skin, though of course you can resolve the question for yourself by trying all three outlets.