If you plan to spend the night in Suzhou, the top hotel is the five-star Sheraton Suzhou Hotel & Tower (Suzhou Wugong Xilaideng Dajiudian), Xin Shi Lu 388, near Pan Men in southwest Suzhou (tel. 800/325-3535 or 0512/6510-3388; fax 0512/6510-0888; www.sheraton.com/Suzhou). With 407 rooms starting at ¥1,660 ($208; usually no more than 10%-20% discount) for a double, this luxury hotel receives rave reviews from most visitors for its quality service and its Chinese-style buildings, which blend seamlessly with the landscape. At press time, the Shangri-La Hotel Suzhou (Suzhou Xianggelila Fandian, Tayuan Lu 168, tel. 0512/6808-0168; fax 0512/68081168; www.shangri-la.com), located less conveniently in the Suzhou Hi-Tech Industrial Development Zone about 20 minutes west of the town, had yet to open, but should be an excellent if somewhat far choice once operational. Another solid option in town is the 294-unit Hong Kong-managed Gloria Plaza Hotel Suzhou (Kailai Dajiudian), east of city center at Ganjiang Dong Lu 535 (tel. 0512/6521-8855; fax 0512/6521-8533; www.gphSuzhou.com). Rooms (¥980-¥1,180/$118-$142 double; 30% discounts) are comfortable, have all the expected amenities as well as broadband access. For those on a budget, the lovely 37-unit Scholars Inn (Shuxiang Mendi Shangwu Jiudian), is in the center of town at Jingde Lu 277 (tel. 0512/6521-7388; fax 0512/6521-7326). This modern three-star hotel with Chinese flourishes and books everywhere offers simple but clean doubles with air-conditioning, phone, TV, and showers for ¥300 to ¥520 ($38-$65).
Although hotel restaurants offer the most reliable fare and accept credit cards, Suzhou has a number of good restaurants that deserve to be tried, many of which are located on Taijian Nong (Taijian Lane), also known as Gourmet Street, around the Guanqian Jie area. One of the most famous local restaurants is the over 200-year-old Song He Lou (Pine and Crane Restaurant) at Guanqian Jie 141 (tel. 0512/6727-7006; daily 8am-9pm), which serves Suzhou specialties such as Songshu Guiyu (Squirrel Shaped Mandarin Fish), Gusu Luya (Gusu Marinated Duck), and Huangmen Heman (Braised River Eel). Dinner for two ranges from ¥100 to ¥200 ($13-$25).