Lao Tan

Frommer's Review

Miao minority cuisine from Southwestern China's Guizhou Province can be found in Shanghai in this boisterous second-floor restaurant tucked away just east of the Crowne Plaza hotel. Food obviously takes priority over the unassuming decor (blank white walls), though there are nice ethnic touches like pillars studded with bits of broken china, mosaic-topped tables anchored by stones, and batik-clad waitstaff. Worth trying are the tangy suan jiangdou larou (sour diced long beans with chilies and smoked bacon), the tender huoyan niurou (beef with red and green peppers on a bed of leeks cooked over a slow flame), the fiery ganguoji guozi (spicy chicken with peppers), and the hearty ganbian tudou (fried potato pancake) -- a perfect accompaniment to just about any dish. Service is brusque only because it's astonishingly fast.

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