The cool nip in the evening air may well have you stocking up on colorful Kinnauri shawls, mufflers, and caps; Pangwali blankets from Chamba; and multicolored hand-knitted woolen socks from Lahaul. The best place to shop for these items and more is Himachal Emporium (3 The Mall; tel. 0177/201-234). But before you purchase, the Tibetan Handloom Shop (5 Willow Bank, The Mall; tel. 0177/280-8163) is also worth visiting, good for Tibetan handicrafts and unique knits. You can also try the very old and renowned Dewanchand Atmaram (47 The Mall; tel. 0177/203-000; closed Sun) for woolen items, while Shezadi (tel. 0177/213-333) is a favorite for those interested in bringing home some traditional Indian clothes jazzed up by innovative design. A side trail from The Mall takes you to the Lakkar Bazaar (timber market), famous for wooden souvenirs (closed Sun), while another detour into the Lower Bazaar leads to an assortment of interesting shops, some barely big enough for two people -- drop in at Thakur Bhrata, where you will find a fascinating display of homemade pickles and preserves. If you are an avid collector of first editions, Maria Brothers (78 The Mall; tel. 0177/255-388; closed Sun) is an absolute gem, known for rare books, antique maps, old prints, and photographs. For a more contemporary selection, try Asia Book House (40 The Mall; tel. 0177/212-217) or Minerva (46 The Mall; tel. 0177/203-078; closed Sun).