What's New

Situated at the center of the Mediterranean, the island of Sicily was once one of the great centers of civilization in the Western world. Everything here is different from the Italian mainland, even the hybrid Sicilian dialect and the many place names tinged with Arabic, in memory of the island's long-ago conquerors. The Greeks, the Romans, the Muslims, the Normans, and the Spaniards all passed through here and left their marks. Much of that ancient past remains. But Sicily is also modern -- and forever changing. Here are some of the latest developments.

Palermo -- One of Palermo's newest and best hotels is Grand Hotel Federico II, Via Principe di Granatelli 60 (tel. 091-7495052), rising six floors in the center of the Sicilian capital. A massive restoration of an old palazzo has produced well-furnished bedrooms in marble and decorative ceramics as well as a first-class restaurant with a roof garden.

Another antique structure has been recycled and turned into a hotel: Vecchio Borgo, Via Quintino Sella 1-7 (tel. 091-61114460) is in an eight-floor building constructed in 1937. With an uncluttered decor, it offers comfortably furnished bedrooms with hydromassage showers.

On the ground floor of the restored Palazzo Ganci, the restaurant, Osteria dei Vespri, Palazzo Croce dei Vespri 6 (tel. 091-6171631), has emerged as one of the most desirable dining rooms in town. Serious foodies are making their way here to enjoy first-class and market-fresh dishes crafted from both Sicilian and mainland Italian recipes. The location is on a hidden little square deep in the heart of the old town.

Cefalù -- Recent improvements in Riva del Sole, Lungomare G. Giardina (tel. 0921-421230), have made this three-story hotel on the water the finest choice for overnighting in town. It had grown stale since its original opening in 1966, but today boasts many attractive features including private balconies or verandas, a panoramic terrace, and a much-improved cuisine that has added international specialties to its repertoire.

The Aeolian Islands -- More and more visitors are sailing over from the Sicilian mainland to discover the charms of the little-visited island of Salina. Part of the allure is the opening of Hotel Signum, Via Scalo (tel. 090-9844375), a little luxury hotel that can make for a dream vacation. Rooms are filled with antiques and have balconies or terraces overlooking a famous and ancient sea.

Taormina -- Recent improvements in old properties or the opening of new ones have changed the hotel picture here. In the heart of the resort, Villa Taormina, Via T. Fazzello 39 (tel. 0942-620072), was carved out of an antique residence imbued with more local character than most and enjoying a tranquil location above the Piazza del Duomo. It's a combination of elegance and charm, really a glorified B&B. A Mediterranean-styled resort, Baia Taormina, Statale dello Lonio 39 (tel. 0942-75693), has opened on a rocky hillside overlooking the sea, a 30-minute drive north of Taormina. The reason to stay so far out of town is to avail oneself of more sports facilities, including tennis and water-skiing, than resorts in the center.

Catania -- In this large city on the east coast of Sicily, the Museo Civico Belliniano, Piazza San Francesco 3 (tel. 095-7150535), one of the greatest art museums on the island, remains closed at press time, with no announced reopening date. Likewise, Museo Emilio Greco, at Piazza San Francesco 3 (tel. 095-317654), also remains closed at press time, although its reopening is projected for some time in 2007. Check with the tourist office about the status of these major attractions at the time of your visit.

Syracuse -- The opening of Scandic by Hilton Siracusa, Viale Teracali 30 (tel. 0931-440440), is giving local hotels serious competition. On the edge of the Parco Archeologico, this former and somewhat dreary Holiday Inn has been vastly improved and turned into a government-rated four-star hotel. Since its opening it's become an immediate success with business clients and visitors intent on discovering the ancient ruins of Syracuse.

Selinunte -- Visitors to the Greek ruins of Selinunte often have a difficult time finding a place to lunch. That dire situation has changed with the opening of Ristorante Pierrot, Via Marco Polo 108 at Marinella (tel. 0924-46205), with an outdoor terrace opening onto the Mediterranean. With its market-fresh ingredients, it serves the finest regional food in the area, including fresh grilled fish caught that day in local waters.

Marsala -- Accommodations in this west coast wine-producing city have been considerably improved with the restoration of two old antique buildings. New Hotel Palace, Lungomare Mediterraneo 57 (tel. 0923-719492), isn't new at all, but the restoration of a 19th-century estate once owned by an English wine exporter. Today, with much renovation and the installation of modern amenities, it is a grand address and is adorned with frescoes by local artists. There's also a swimming pool and a children's playground. Also from the 19th century, Villa Favorita, Via Favorita 23 (tel. 0923-989100), was a former rendezvous for aristocrats and the Sicilian literati. Today it's an elegant retreat, a government-rated four-star hotel with deluxe rooms, plus an outdoor pool and a tennis court.