What's New

Situated at the center of the Mediterranean, the island of Sicily was once one of the great centers of civilization in the Western world. Everything here is different from the Italian mainland, even the hybrid Sicilian dialect and the many place names tinged with Arabic, in memory of the island's long-ago conquerors. The Greeks, the Romans, the Muslims, the Normans, and the Spaniards all passed through here and left their marks. Much of that ancient past remains. But Sicily is also modern -- and forever changing. Here are some of the latest developments.

Palermo

Hotels -- A once-dreary pensione has been turned into Letizia, a boutique hotel of charm in an 18th-century palazzo at Via Bottai 30 (tel. 091-589110). The 13-unit hotel occupies two floors of an 18th-century building at the edge of the Kalsa district. Prices are among the most affordable in Palermo for a hotel of this style.

Even though it occupies a restored palace, Plaza Opera Hotel, Via Nicolò Gallo 2 (tel. 091-3819026), is the epitome of cosmopolitan chic. Paintings and some antiques add grace notes, but it is a bastion of moderno, with beautifully designed bedrooms in a minimalist style.

The Count and Countess of Federico have opened their antiques-laden castle, dating from the 12th century, to paying guests. Palazzo Conte Federico stands at Via dei Biscottari 4 (tel. 091-6511881). Its entrance torchlit at night, it rents out the most elegant apartments in town, with high ceilings and baroque frescoes. Apartments are not only elegant, but come with kitchenettes. For what you get, prices are most reasonable here.

With only 16 rooms, Ucciardhome, Via Enrico Albanese 34-35 (tel. 091-348426), is one of the best boutique hotels of Palermo. The atmosphere in both the public and the private rooms is elegant and intimate, and special features range from a chic wine bar to soundproof bedrooms with terraces or balconies.

The former royal residence of Prince Alessandro Filangieri II has been converted into Hotel Orientale at Via Maqueda 26 (tel. 091-6165727). In the center of the old city, the building retains many of its grand architectural features, including a marble staircase and hand-painted frescoes. The location is convenient to the Central Station.

Restaurants -- Some of the most authentic of Sicilian recipes are now showcased at Bellotero, Via Giorgio Castriota 31 (tel. 091-582158), lying in the city's new town. It has only 10 tables, so reservations are necessary. The chefs are known for their preparations of freshly caught fish and shellfish, and their zesty regional dishes, including mountain lamb with oven-roasted pistachios.

Catania

Opera lovers and devotees of native son, composer Vincenzo Bellini, have still been given no reopening date for the Museo Civico Belliniano, at Piazza San Francesco 3 (tel. 095-7150535), which has been installed in this second-floor apartment once occupied by Catania's most famous resident. Check with the tourist office upon your arrival in Catania to see if this world-famous attraction is receiving visitors once again.

Marsala

On the outskirts of this wine-producing town in Western Sicily, the German chain Kempinski has opened the most elegant and luxurious resort in this part of the island. Kempinski Hotel Giardinodi Costanza, Via Salemi, Km. 7, 1000 Mazara del Vallo (tel. 0923-675000), is a 90-room resort with grand luxuries in a landscaped setting of sublime comfort and tranquillity. Its on-site spa is the best in Sicily, as are its children's programs.

Monreale

Lying on the outskirts of Monreale, the most popular day trip from Palermo, Casale del Principe, Contrada Dammusi (tel. 091-8579910), is an agriturismo (farm estate) that is only 23km (14 miles) south of Palermo in the Jato Valley. In the 18th century, the property, with its 16th-century watchtower, was a Jesuit monastery. Today it's been turned into an elegantly rustic country house where no two rooms are alike. The setting is among vineyards, orchards, and olive groves.

Syracuse

Hotels -- In the historic heart of Ortygia, Agilà Ortygia Charme Hotel, at Via Vittorio Veneto 93 (tel. 0931-465186), has opened in a restored building with panoramic views over the Ortygia Sea. The antique architectural features have been preserved, even though modern amenities were added. Each of the rooms, opening onto a tranquil courtyard, contains antiques, and the restaurant serves both a Mediterranean and international cuisine.

A once-decaying palazzo has been restored and turned into the 17-room Gran Bretagna, Via Savoia 21 (tel. 0931-68765). The hotel was built on fortifications dating from the 16th century. Bedrooms are spacious and furnished with antique reproductions along with frescoed ceilings in some cases.

Attractions -- One of the city's major attractions, Palazzo Bellomo, an 18th-century palace that is home to one of the greatest art collections in Sicily, still remains closed at press time. Check its status with the tourist office when you arrive in Syracuse.

Taormina

This resort, the most chic in Sicily, has seen the opening of a government-rated, five-star hotel, Gran Hotel San Pietro, Via Pirandello 50 (tel. 0942-620711), which is surrounded by the most elegant hotel gardens on the east coast of Sicily, featuring a large terrace and a deluxe swimming pool. The hotel is housed in a Mediterranean-style building, rising six floors on a hillside and overlooking the sea down below.

Trapani

On the outskirts of this city in Western Sicily, the Duca di Castelmonte has opened at Via Salvatore Motisi 3 in Xitta (tel. 0923-526139). This is an agriturismo or farm estate renting little apartments that can house anywhere from two to six guests comfortably. In a setting of olive groves and orange trees, the hotel also offers an on-site restaurant serving traditional family recipes.

Vulcano

In the Aeolian Islands, L'Approdo at Via Porto di Levante (tel. 090-9852426), has become the restaurant of choice, with its excellent regional food and shady garden. Under new management, the restaurant hires chefs expert at grilling the day's catch. Many of their dishes show flair, including carpaccio of swordfish or fresh tuna with wild fennel.