Environment

Of all the islands of the Mediterranean, Sicily is the largest, spread across 40,965km (25,454 miles), and lying halfway between Gibraltar and the Suez Canal. It is surrounded by several archipelagos, the most important of which are the Aeolian Islands, with such touristed spots as Stromboli, Lipari, and Vulcano. Other island groups include Egadi, Pantelleria, and Pelagie, the latter centered at Lampedusa.

Bounded by the Tyrrhenian Sea to its north, the Sicilian Sea to its southwest, and the Ionian Sea on its eastern coast, Sicily is separated from southern Italy by the Straits of Messina. Though it's the country's largest region, Sicily is only the fourth highest in population.

Sicily enjoys a Mediterranean climate -- it's the first part of Italy to heat up in the spring and the last to grow chilly in winter. It also suffers the longest, hottest summers, with July a scorcher.

An island of rivers, Sicily is also volcanic, the most threatening menace being Mount Etna, on the eastern coast. Some of the islands in the various archipelagos also have volcanoes, notably Stromboli, but most are long dormant.

The island is split by four mountain groups. First and foremost are the so-called Sicilian Alps, the Apennines, actually a continuation of the same mountain range that begins in Calabria on the mainland. These mountains stretch along the north coast, beginning at the Straits of Messina and going west to the Torto River. The Apennines are divided into a trio of ranges, including Peloritani, Nebrodi, and Madonie. Of the three, we recommend at least an exploration of Madonie, the most fascinating for touring.

Another mountain range is found in western Sicily to the west of the Platani and Torto rivers. The third member of the trio lies at the core of Sicily, looking out to the coast of North Africa 140km (87 miles) away, scene of so many embarkations of island conquerors. The southern and western half of Sicily, in terms of topography, is more similar to the Atlas Mountains of North Africa than the Sicilian mainland.

The ancient Greeks, among the first major settlers, called Sicily Trinacria, or triangle, because of its triangular shape. The island coastline covers much ground, a distance of 1,000km (621 miles). The smoothest and most uninterrupted flank stretches from the Straits of Messina to the Gulf of Palermo, overlooking the city of Palermo, Sicily's capital. The southern coast begins in the southeast at Capo Passero on the Golfo di Noto and heads west along the Golfo di Gela, coming to an end at Capo Lilibeo south of Marsala of winemaking fame.

The eastern coast, opening onto Mare Ionio, or the Ionian Sea, begins at Capo Passero and heads north to Messina, bypassing the cities of Catania and Syracuse. Gólfo di Catania is the most important body of water in the east, providing the island's largest plain with a seafront.

As the coastline nears Messina, it becomes a series of towering cliffs broken up by a network of craggy inlets. For the visitor, the most stunning seascapes and landscapes are found around the resort of Taormina and the small city of Acireale, north of Catania.

Flora & Fauna -- The deforestation of the island has been a disaster since as far back as Roman times. Once rich in forests that provided it with abundant water, Sicily had vast tracts of woodland razed over the years to turn the island into the grain belt of the Roman Empire. This massive deforestation has left Sicily with a more foreboding climate -- hot and dry.

The ancient Greek settlers brought with them the cultivation of the grape and the olive tree. The Arab conquerors brought date palms from Africa and encouraged the cultivation of citrus groves.

Typical Mediterranean flora, including the strawberry tree and myrtle, is found all over the island. Broom bushes set the countryside alive in spring, with miles of sunflower-yellow coloring. The spiny shrub, the so-called bastard olive, grows wild almost everywhere.

Island fauna have been horrendously affected by the gradual deforestation of Sicily. Other than sheep grazing in country fields, it is rare to see much wildlife as you travel the country roads of Sicily. Along the coast, of course, there is still plenty of birdlife, notably cormorants and seagulls. The viper is the only poisonous snake on the island, frightening tourists as it suns itself at various archaeological sites in summer.

The western coast dwellers of Sicily, who for centuries have depended on the mammoth schools of tuna for their livelihoods, are now facing diminishing returns. Huge Japanese trawlers in international waters are capturing more and more of these fish for shipment to the markets of Tokyo.