Regions in Brief

A predominantly mountainous island, Sicily is separated from the mainland by the Straits of Messina. Culturally there is an even wider gap between Italy and its semiautonomous island, Sicily, which feels a world apart.

This is a land of tempestuous elements, including active volcanoes and torrential rivers that can flood during the winter rainy season and dry up in the scorching summer months. While northern Sicily enjoys a milder clime, southern Sicily is often profoundly affected by the hot winds known as sirocco blowing in from the deserts of North Africa.

Sicily lies at the confluence of a trio of seas -- in fact, the Greeks call it Sikelia, or "three points." The northern coast opens onto the Tyrrhenian Sea, the eastern coast (Catania and Taormina) onto the Ionian Sea, and the southern coast onto the Sicilian Sea.

Sicily also controls a string of offshore islands, including Ustica, off the coast of Palermo; the Aeolians (mainly Stromboli, Vulcano, and Lipari); and the Egadis, lying off the cities of Marsala and Trapani on the west coast. Lonely Pantelleria lies off the western coast, and the southernmost Pelagians are almost in North Africa. Here's a rundown of the cities and regions covered in this guide.

Aeolian Islands -- From the mud baths of Vulcano to the fiery explosions from the crater on Stromboli, the Aeolian Islands (Isole Eolie) are mysterious and exciting places to be, different from anything else in Italy. Awash in the Tyrrhenian Sea, these islands lie off the northern coast and are within easy reach of the port of Milazzo by hydrofoil or ferryboat. The three main islands to visit are Vulcano (closest to the Sicilian mainland), Lipari (where most of the tourist facilities are found), and Stromboli (still actively volcanic). Those travelers with unlimited time can also make day trips to such lesser islands as Panarea, Filicudi, Salina, and Alicudi.

Agrigento -- Located on the southern coastline of Sicily, Agrigento was one of the most important centers of Magna Graecia, and its Valle dei Templi ("Valley of the Temples"), a mammoth array of temple ruins, is reason enough to go to Sicily. The home of the 5th-century philosopher Empedocles and of the playwright Luigi Pirandello, Agrigento was destroyed by Carthage in 406 B.C. But those invading armies left plenty of ruins for us to explore today. The town's Doric temples date from the 6th century to the 5th century B.C. and were erected to such deities as Hercules, Juno, and Jupiter.

Catania -- The second city of Sicily opens onto the Gulf of Catania, lying at the foot of the southern slopes of Mount Etna, a volcano that has rained lava down on it for centuries. One of the oldest cities of Sicily, it dates from the 8th century B.C. Massively rebuilt after destruction by an earthquake in 1693, Catania today is called the "baroque city." You'll either love this massive sprawl or hate it. We love it, as did such hometown boys as the composer Vincenzo Bellini (1801-35).

Messina -- Overlooking the Straits of Messina on the northeast coast of Sicily, the city of Messina is, for most visitors, the gateway into Sicily. Although it's possible to fly into Palermo, most people arrive by hydrofoil or ferryboat from the Italian mainland, disembarking at the port of Messina, where rail and bus connections can be made to other parts of Sicily. Shakespeare used the city as a setting for Much Ado About Nothing, although he never actually laid eyes on it. Messina today is a modern city, having been rebuilt after many disasters.

Mount Etna -- This is Sicily's greatest natural attraction and its highest mountain, and it's also the largest volcano in Europe and one of the most active in the world. The ancient Greeks viewed it as the home of Vulcan, god of fire, and home of the Cyclops, the one-eyed monster. Much of its surrounding landscape is covered with solidified lava, a surface for skiing in winter and hiking in summer. The crater is dangerously active, so you always feel a sense of adventure, or even danger, while touring or hiking in the area.

Palermo -- The island's largest city and its capital is also filled with the most sightseeing treasures. Palermo opens onto the Gulf of Palermo on the northwest coast of Sicily, the largest settlement in Conca d'Oro, a fertile land planted with citrus. Founded by the Phoenicians, it contains innumerable fine monuments, particularly in the baroque vein, along with an array of art that spans the centuries. It's difficult to navigate and crime-laden, but like its sister city of Naples, it's worth the effort for those who don't mind a certain inconvenience.

Piazza Armerina -- This is not a piazza (square) but an actual town, and a spectacularly sited one as well, lying inland in central Sicily. It is visited mainly by those who want to see the famous Roman hunting lodge from the 4th century B.C. The mosaics found here are among the most spectacular in the world; they even include some bathing beauties in bikinis.

Ragusa -- Set on the southern slope of the Iblei mountain range, Ragusa lies inland from the sea and is one of the most intriguing cities in the southeastern sector of the island. It's actually two cities in one, Ragusa Ibla and Ragusa Superiore. Of medieval origin, with narrow twisting lanes, the old city, which suffered a major earthquake in 1693, retained much of its appearance when it was rebuilt.

Segesta & Selinunte -- Your journey of discovery through Sicily should include these ancient ruins. Segesta lies in western Sicily in a setting of rolling hills. Its claim to fame is a Doric temple built around 430 B.C., with its 36 limestone columns still intact. On the southern coast, Selinunte was once a rival to Segesta until it was destroyed by Hannibal and the Carthaginians. Like Agrigento and Syracuse, Selinunte is visited for its impressive and scattered ruins of temple columns that speak of former glory.

Syracuse -- Called Siracusa in Italian, this historic city, founded by the Greeks in the 8th century B.C., lies on the southeastern coast of the island. After Taormina and Palermo, it is the third-most-visited city in Sicily. Filled with medieval streets, but with an essentially baroque aura in architecture, its main draws are its classical ruins and works of art. These include a Greek theater and a Roman amphitheater, both from the 3rd century B.C.

Taormina -- Sicily's grandest resort, first publicized by Goethe in 1787, has over time drawn a steady stream of celebrities, ranging from Oscar Wilde to Marlene Dietrich. Situated atop Monte Tauro, Taormina is not on the beach, but good sandy strips are easily reached along its eastern flanks. In spite of the hordes who descend on it every year from April to October, Taormina retains some of its medieval aura.

Trapani & Erice -- The major city on the western coast, Trapani lies in the northwest, opening onto the Egadi archipelago of three islands. It offers superior transportation links to the rest of Sicily and easy road links to Palermo. Trapani was founded by the Greeks, though eventually it fell to the Romans. The medieval hill town of Erice, to its immediate north, has far more antique charm, and if you have only a day to spend in the west, devote it to touring Erice. But if you have the time, Trapani and its monuments make for an intriguing day of sightseeing as well.

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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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				Frommer's Sicily, 3rd Edition Author: Darwin Porter Pub Date: April 16, 2007 Price: $18.99				Related Titles: Frommer's 24 Great Walks in Rome, 1st Edition Frommer's Florence & Tuscany Day by Day, 1st Edition Frommer's Florence, Tuscany & Umbria, 6th Edition

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