Even though Italy since 1861 has had rather liberal legislation regarding homosexuality, Sicily remains one of the major bastions of homophobia in Europe. Some of the islanders express antigay attitudes that might belong more appropriately to the Middle Ages. Open displays of affection between same-sex couples meets with obvious disapproval by intolerant islanders.
Don't be misled: Sicilian men are often very affectionate, linking arms with one another and kissing on the cheeks to say hello or bid goodbye. This is how straight men behave, and such affection is not to be construed as overtly sexual.
There are few gay businesses in Sicily. If you're gay and still want to go, your best bet is the more sophisticated resort of Taormina, following in the footsteps of past visitors such as Tennessee Williams and his longtime companion, Frank Merlo.
If you really want a gay holiday in Italy, Sicily may not be for you. Consider la dolce vita as lived on the Isle of Capri.
If you have your heart set on Sicily, however, the following resources may be helpful.
The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to its website and click on "Members Site."
Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) is the exclusive gay and lesbian tour operator for United Airlines. Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-known San Francisco-based gay-owned and -operated travel service. Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusively lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for both gay and lesbian travelers.
Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com), is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. It also offers trip-planning information for gay and lesbian travelers for more than 50 destinations, along various themes, ranging from "Sex & Travel" to "Vacations for Couples."
The following travel guides and magazines are available at many travel bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Frommer's Gay & Lesbian Europe (www.frommers.com), an excellent travel resource to the top European cities and resorts; Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmunder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner (Odysseus Enterprises Ltd.), both good, annual, English-language guidebooks focused on gay men; and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.