Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Train -- The bus is often more convenient, because Siena's train station is outside town. Some 19 trains daily connect Siena with Florence (90 min.-2 1/4 hr.). There's also a line to Chiusi-Chianciano Terme (90 min.) passing through Asciano and Montepulciano. Siena's train station (tel. 0577-280-115) is at Piazza Fratelli Roselli, about 3km (2 miles) north of town. Take the C minibus to Piazza Gramsci in Terza di Camollia or a taxi.

By Car -- There's an autostrada highway direct from Florence (it has no route number; follow the green autostrada signs toward Siena), or you can take the more scenic routes, down the old Via Cassia SS2 or the Chiantigiana SS222 through the Chianti. From Rome get off the A1 north at the Val di Chiana exit and follow the SS326 west for 50km (31 miles). The SS223 runs 70km (43 miles) here from Grosetto in the Maremma. From Pisa take the highway toward Florence and exit onto the SS429 south at Empoli (100km/62 miles total).

Trying to drive into the one-way and pedestrian-zoned center isn't worth the massive headache. Siena parking (tel. 0577-22-871) is now coordinated, and all the lots charge 1.50€ ($1.95) per hour or 36€ ($47) per day, ranking it among the most expensive parking on the planet. Luckily, almost every hotel has a discount deal with the nearest lot for anywhere from 40% to 100% off. All are well signposted, with locations just inside city gates' Porta Tufi (the huge and popular Il Campo lot, though it's a 20-min. walk from the Campo!), Porta San Marco, and Porta Romana; under the Fortezza (another large lot) and around La Lizza park (the latter closed market Wed and soccer Sun); and at Piazza Amendola (just outside the northern gate Porta Camollia). Ask your hotel about parking when booking -- many have deals with one of these lots to get you anywhere from 50% to 100% off. You can park for free a bit farther away around the unguarded back (northwest) side of the Fortezza all week long. There's also free parking outside the southeast end of town at Due Ponti (beyond Porta Pispini) and Coroncina (beyond Porta Romana); from both you can get a pollicino (minibus) into the center .

By Bus -- Because buses from Florence are faster and let you off right in town, they're more convenient than trains. Tra-in runs express (19 daily; 75 min.) and slower buses (18 daily; 90 min.-2 hr.) from Florence's SITA station to Siena's Piazza San Domenico or Piazza Gramsci. Siena is also connected with San Gimignano (hourly Mon-Sat; change in Poggibonsi; 55-65 min. not including layover), Volterra (three daily; change in Colle di Val d'Elsa; 40 min. each leg), Massa Marittima (three daily; 80 min.), Perugia (two to four daily; 85 min.), and Rome's Tiburtina station (five to seven daily; 2 hr. 47 min.).

Follow the signs to Siena's Tra-in bus ticket office, underneath Piazza Gramsci in the pedonale della Lizza (tel. 0577-204-246 or 0577-204-225; www.trainspa.it), and there's another small office in the city's train station (tel. 0577-204-245).

City Layout

Siena is splayed out like a "Y" along three ridges with deep valleys in between, effectively dividing the city into thirds, called terze. The terze are each drawn out along three main streets following the spines of those ridges. The southern arm, Terza di San Martino, slopes gently down around Via Banchi di Sotto (and the various other names it picks up along the way). To the west is Terza di Città (home to the Duomo and Pinacoteca), centered on Via di Città. Terza di Camollia runs north around Via Banchi di Sopra. These three main streets meet at the north edge of Piazza del Campo, Siena's gorgeous scallop-shaped central square.

Tip for the footsore: Each terza's main ridge-top street is relatively flat -- for Siena -- while off either side medieval alleyways drop precipitously. If you hate climbing hills, the shortest (or at least less strenuous) distance between two points in Siena isn't a straight line but a curve that follows the three main drags as much as possible.

Getting Around

Although it often looks and feels like a small Tuscan hill town, Siena truly is a city (albeit a small one), and its sites are widely spread. There is no efficient public transport system in the center, so it's up to your feet to cover the territory. There are plenty of steep ups and downs and no shortcuts from one terza to another without a serious workout.

The city does run minibuses, called pollicini (tel. 0577-204-246), which dip into the city center from 6am to 9pm. The B services the Terza di San Martino and out the Porta Pispini gate, as does bus 5 (there's also an N night bus on this route 9pm-1am). Confusingly, there are four A buses, differentiated by color. A pink goes around Terza di San Martino (and out the Porta Romana gate), as does bus no. 2; A green and A yellow cover Terza di Città (green from Porta Tufi to the Duomo, yellow from Porta San Marco to the Duomo); and A red takes care of the southerly part of Terza di Camollia (from Piazza della Indipendenza out Porta Fontebranda).

You can call for a radio taxi at tel. 0577-49-222 (7am-9pm only); they also queue at the train station and in town at Piazza Matteotti.

Visitor Information

The tourist office, where you can get a great free map, is at Piazza del Campo 56 (tel. 0577-280-551; fax 0577-270-676; www.siena.turismo.toscana.it). From March 21 to November 11, it's open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 1pm and 3 to 7pm, and Saturday from 8:30am to 1pm; winter hours are Monday through Saturday from 8:30am to 7:30pm.

Festivals & Markets

Aside from the two annual Palio races, Siena throws a pottery fair in honor of the Festa di Santa Lucia on December 13. The prestigious Accademia Musicale Chigiana music center, Via di Città 89 (tel. 0577-22-091; www.chigiana.it), sponsors concerts and opera year-round (the website has a schedule), culminating in the week of the Settimana Musicale Senese in July or August. St. Cecilia is celebrated on November 22 with church concerts. The extensive main city market is held Wednesday from 8am to 1pm, filling the streets around the Fortezza Medicea and La Lizza park.