Shopping

Antiques

The best antiques shop in town is the Antichità Monna Agnese (tel. 0577-282-288), with a main branch at Via di Città 60 and another across the street at no. 45 that specializes in jewelry.

Books & Paper

The Libreria Senese, Via di Città 62-66 (tel. 0577-280-845), has the largest selection of English-language books, though it's now getting competition from the chain store Feltrinelli, with store entrances at Via Banchi di Sopra 52 and 64-66 (tel. 0577-271-104 or 0577-44-009). For art and coffee-table books, often at a discount, hit Arte & Libri, Via di Città 111 (tel. 0577-221-325). The Siena branch of Florence's Il Papiro, Via di Città 37 (tel. 0577-284-241), carries fine stationery, marbleized paper products, and wonderful journals (leather-bound and otherwise).

Ceramics & Housewares

Though lots of ceramics shops line Via di Città, they're mainly only of souvenir quality. The work of Ceramiche Artistiche Santa Caterina, with showrooms at Via di Città 51, 74, and 76 (tel. 0577-283-098) and a workshop outside town at Via P.A. Mattioli 12 (tel. 0577-45-006), is not. Maestro Marcello Neri trained at Siena's art school and in the ceramics workshops of Montelupo Fiorentino, Tuscany's foremost ceramics center, before taking over this studio in 1961, aided by his talented wife, Franca Franci, and now their adult son, Fabio, also an art-school grad. Look especially for their wares painted in "Sienese style" using only black, white, and terra di Siena reddish brown (what we call burnt sienna) with designs inspired by the oldest pavement panels in the Duomo.

Muzzi Sergio, Via dei Termini 97 (tel. 0577-40-439), is a friendly designer-housewares shop, perfect for that set of grappa glasses or Alessi kitchen gadget.

Clothing

For men's and women's high fashion, bring your credit cards along for a date with Armani, Gucci, Versace, Burberry, Missoni -- and some more affordable labels -- at Cortecci, Via Banchi di Sopra 27 (tel. 0577-280-096; www.corteccisiena.it). There's also a branch on Il Campo at 30-31 (tel. 0577-280-984).

For something a bit more unique, drop by Fioretta Bacci and her pair of giant looms taking up most of the room at Tessuti a Mano, Via San Pietro 7 (tel. 0577-282-200). Fioreta weaves all her incredible scarves, shawls, and sweaters by hand.

Fabrics and linens, both as raw materials and made into sheets, curtains, or embroidered hand towels, are the stock in trade of Debora Loreni's Antiche Dimore, Via di Città 115 (tel. 0577-45-337). Signora Bruna Brizi Fontani is a bundle of energy and full of stories in her little embroidery and needlepoint store, Siena Ricama, Via di Città 61 (tel. 0577-288-339). She spends so much time amiably gabbing with visitors to her workroom and shop, I wonder when she finds the time to finish the wonderful lampshades and other objects -- every one stitched by Fontani herself. They're inspired by medieval Sienese art: the Duomo floor, illuminated manuscripts, the frescoes of the Lorenzetti brothers, and anything else that catches her fancy from art history books and local museums.

Food

Siena's classiest stop for foodies is the glass-and-wood-shelved shop of the Antica Drogheria Manganelli, Via di Città 71-73 (tel. 0577-280-002), since 1879 making its own panforte (one of the few left) and delicious soft ricciarelli almond cookies. It also carries the tops in Tuscan products, such as vinegar from Castello di Volpaia and cured meats from Greve in Chianti's Falorni butchers.

For less touristy (and cheaper) pickings of traditional regional foods, head to one of the spots where many Sienese come to stock up. La Terra di Siena, Via G. Duprè 32 (tel. 0577-223-528), looks like a bargain basement-type place with stacks of regional products like Sienese cookies and area wines, honeys, cheeses, and meats, but it actually carries quality merchandise (at great prices). The supermarket-like Consorzio Agrario Siena, Via Piangiani 9 (tel. 0577-2301), has been a farmers' co-op since 1901; most of the produce comes direct from the farm, and many of the packaged goods were packaged locally.

For fresh pastries, you can't beat Pasticceria Bini, behind the left flank of the Duomo at Via dei Fusari 9-13 (tel. 0577-280-207), where since 1943 they've filled the neighborhood with irresistible scents as they make their delicious sweets on-site -- you can watch them at work through the next window down the street.