Although tourists now know to filter behind the Palazzo Pubblico to this large family-run trattoria, locals still hang on vigorously, returning for the simple but good Sienese fare. In summer, you can dine alfresco on the unsightly piazza with a view of the Terza di San Martino. If you're eating inside, head to the left of the door or upstairs for wood-ceilinged ambience -- the modern room to the right is where they try to stick all the tourists. The pappardelle al sugo di cinghiale (noodles in wild boar sauce) is a traditional dish, while the pici alla cardinale (chewy fat spaghetti in tomato sauce with hot peppers and chunks of pancetta) is a bit more original. Keep it spicy with coniglio all'arrabbiata (rabbit cooked in white wine, rosemary, and sage with a pinch of pepperoncino), or try anatra alla Tolomei (duck stewed with tomatoes).
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