Attractions

The chief attraction here is a stroll through the town's Gamla Stan [S] or Old Town, which is the historic core, a maze of fondant-colored tiny cottages that in some ways evokes a movie set. If you're driving, there is parking down by the harbor. As you stroll along, follow Strandvägen to Sjöfartsplatsen, which is a garden studded with works of art (you may disagree) made from the debris of shipwrecks. On our last visit, we made a surprising discovery when we wandered into Frasses Musikmuseum, Peder Morks Väg 5 (tel. 0414/145-20). Here we found the world's most complete collection of Edison phonographs. The museum also has a collection of antique musical curiosities, including self-playing barrel organs. It's open June and August only on Sunday 2 to 6pm. In July, hours are Monday to Wednesday and Sunday 2 to 6pm. Admission is 35SEK ($7/£3.50).

The chief monument in Gamla Stan is St. Nicolai Kirke, Storgatan (tel. 0414/41-24-80). It's open June to September from 10am to 6:30pm, Sunday noon to 6:30pm; October to May Monday to Friday 10am to 3pm, and Saturday 10am to 1pm. Originally constructed as a fisherman's chapel in the 12th century, the church literally dominates the town. It's built of chunky sandstone blocks, with a brick porch and step gables. Over the years there have been many additions, with a nave added in the 1300s, although the vault dates from the 1400s. Inside, look for the flamboyantly painted pulpit from the 1620s. The pews and votive ships on display were installed much later, in the 1800s. Outside you'll see two sculptures, both by Sweden's greatest sculptor, Carl Milles, called The Sisters and Angel with Trumpet.

The main square and the center of local life is Storgatan. Östergatan and Stora Norregatan are the best streets for charming little 19th-century houses; nearly all of them have carved wooden doors and potted plants on their doorsteps.