Manastinska Magernitza

Dom Perignon was a monk, but who knew monks ate this well? Manastinska Magernitza, literally "Monastery Kitchen," is in an elegant 19th-century house on a quiet street. Every room is decorated with traditional Bulgarian rugs and fabrics, and the atmosphere is wonderfully laid back. The owners have collected traditional recipes from 161 Bulgarian monasteries and there is plenty on the menu you won't find elsewhere, like Plakovsjka Hayverna, peeled garlic mashed with salt and oil, lemon, bread and walnuts; and Haryana Tartan, nettle and spinach stew, cooked with walnuts, garlic, cheese, and butter. Almost empty at lunch, Manastinska Magernitza is better visited at night.

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